Hi guys :
Mater bathroom /Vanity is on an outside wall,they 1″/1/2 p trap will be in the vanity.The 1″1/2 dwv T is in the outside wall,vent goes up the wall to the attic and connects to the main 3″ vent line.
Is it ok to have the T in the wall where water will be draining a short distance to the horizontal branch? on the 2nd floor.I’m concerned about freezing.
Thanks Everyone
Greg
Replies
the water be moving, it be hard to freeze unless it backs up.
Thanks Brownbag: Is that the way the line is normally routed?I keep second guessing myself looks to simple(LOL)
Thanks Greg
Yeah, what Brown said. Hard to freeze if its moving.
And we don't want any jokes about poopsickles. ;)
We could start a whole new thread on THAT ONE!!
I got one in a outside wall but I,m in an area that if it drops to 45 degree it classified as a hard freeze. I have only seen snow once in last 20 years, oh sorry.
Where are you? Wall is on the prevailing wind side of the house? Siding/sheeting is?
At any rate, insulate on the exterior side of the pipe, bringing the ins alongside the pipe. Keep the interior side of the pipe free of any insulation so it picks up the warmth of the int. wall.
And as has been said, only on rare occasion and in extreme conditions will that drain freeze if no horizontal runs in outside wall.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 11/24/2004 6:19 pm ET by calvin
Calvin:
I'm in CT,Wall is on the east side of the house,dense pack cellulose will be in the walls R-21,vinyl siding(never again)sheathing is 1/2"plywood.No horizontal runs outside.
Basically from trap ,short length of pvc,dwv tee,short length of pvc coming out the bottom of the tee,sweep elbow,length of pipe going to a wye combo about 2' in the inside the house.
Thanks Greg
Hi,
I'm in CT too. My well supply line froze once when it was about -10 deg F. Even though the wall was insulated, the pipe was up against a 2x6 stud. Moved it off the stud - all was OK!
Here in NW Ohio, sometimes you do what you don't want to do. When there's plumbing in the outside wall, I'll put whatever thickness foambd I can behind the pipes, against the sheeting, leaving the area toward the heat with no insul. You could if you think it necessary make up a foam chase that flushes out with the interior drywall surface, that would keep the dense cells from covering the pipe. My tactic is more for supply lines, but on occasion, horizontal drains.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin:
You know I would have thought the other way around and insulated the snot out of the inside side of the pipe area too,but it makes good sense to let the interior heat get to the pipe to keep it warm.
Thanks Greg
Greggo,
Here's my standard detail for pipes in an exterior wall.
SamT
View Image
Thanks Sam:
Nice detail on the Drawing.
I didn't think you could put a DWV line in an exterior wall.When I put the main drain and vent line in I went thru an interior wall what a pain.Wish I had this site back then.
Thanks Greg
Only thing I would add to what has been posted is to foam around the holes in any top plates, where the vent enters the attic. A lot of cold air can fall through that small space around the vent stack. It is really just another step in air sealing the building envelope, that is good building practice.
I have only seen one DWV freeze in 30 years, and it was CI in an interior wall, but the cold air (-10 F) in the attic fell through that stud cavity like wind tunnel. Sealed the penetration and solved the problem.
Dave
Thanks Dave:
Point taken.I probably put some fire stop caulking in there then a good shot of foam for back up.
Calvin, Brownie and Dave are right on. Drains are different than supplies beacuase the water is moving. Plus, drains tend to be warmer because of warm air moving through them from the sewer or septic system. Be sure all drains are properly pitched (1/4" per foot) and that vents have no horizontal runs below the flood level of the fixture.
Dave's comment about cold air from above is true. I once saw supply lines frozen by cold air from the attic follwing a vent pipe down a wall cavity. A little expanding foam injected in the wall stopped it.
Hot and cold water suppy lines are a different story. Try to avoid putting those in outside walls.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Well, my experience is this: I had a drain exactly as you described, except no insulation in the wall cavity (unbeknowst to me!). The drain line got plugged with the usual crud, meaning that the drain line backed up, but not enough that we knew it wasn't draining properly. As soon as winter came, of course the line froze, split the DWV, and then we knew there was a problem.
Bob Chapman
Bob:
I had a handyman do some plumbing work for me about ten years ago in my bathroom remodel.The sink never seemed to drain right always slow,had to keep the stopper out all the time.
Fast forward .Building my new home reading plumbing books.Learn that you need to have a specific vent line to each fixture.VENT LINE what vent line???The nucklehead never put one in,plus had an S trap.No wonder the thing never drained right.Put in an air admittence valve and P trap works like a champ now.
I have since learned that any idiot can glue PVC togeter,wether its Right is another story.
Greg
Al:
Never thought about the warm air nether.This is stuff you just cant get in HOW TO BOOKS.I know I got enough of them.Tauton you listening?
Thank You Greg
You forgot something.
SamT
Whoops Sam U didnt see that right!
Ok lets try this again. Here are some shots on how I plumbed it
Greg
Whoops again! Ok one of you computor guys tell me what the heck I did wrong.If you turn your neck just righhhhht you get the idea.How the heck do you rotate the pic?,and not get it so big?
Thanks Greg
Thank You Kindly Sam!!