I need to insulate the concrete section of my basement. The walls go in steps from 1 foot to 4 feet.
Here’s kind of the plan on furring them out: either a 2×4 or 2×6 (pressure treated for the concrete floor) with studs 16″ oc.
What I’m wondering is how to tie the top of this furred out section to the bottom plate of the wood wall that doesn’t look too funky.
thanks
Replies
I may not be following what you are saying: I think you are saying you have concrete walls, topped by wood stud walls, and the concrete walls vary in height in increments--concrete steps topped by standard stud walls.
Depending on how cramped you are for space, I would probably just put a second stud wall inside the "combination walls", from floor to ceiling. That way there are no more steps, no worries on how to tie them in, no funky step looking things. You also get a more continuous plane of insulation.
If you are set on stepping the new walls, perhaps you could make them like a stepped bookcase, putting shelving above these partial walls, the first shelf attached to the top plate of the new wall. The first shelf would hide any attachments (steel plates or gussets) used to join the top plate of the new wall with bottom plate of old stud wall.
If nothing else, this reply bumps you up to where others can see your question to reply.
You exactly right.It's an 30 x 40 unfinished area. I'm a DYI'er so I don't get a lot of things right off.If I do the continuious wall, how does effect the windows.Also, does the county, in my case, require all that space to have insulation usually?I apprecaite the relply!
The other poster ("Pikopete") had a better answer. With his way you only need to get jamb extensions for your windows and you don't have to contend with changes in level of the top of the lower wall. I don't know about whether code requires insulation--you could ask the building inspector. My feeling is that you're going through all this work, you might as well insulate.
Fine Homebuilding magazine had an article this year concerning myths of building and remodeling that said not to put a vapor barrier towards the inside of a basement wall because the outside of the wall (against the soil) is wetter than the inside will ever be. Something else to think about!
Thanks. Do you know the issue # or date?
Wow, I'm surprised I found the issue and date! Only looked for a couple minutes--if you could see my house you'd understand why this is a real pleasant surprise!
Anyway, in May 2004 Issue (no. 162) page 52 "Built Wrong From the Start: The Top Ten Building Blunders". And it's the first of the ten blunders: "Vapor Barriers on Basement Insulation Will Rot Your Walls." He recommends using XPS isulation and further refers to FHB #160, pp. 50-55.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Edited 6/11/2005 4:40 pm ET by Danno
Hey, thanks so much. The local library had it.
try gluing 'styrofoam sm' or equiv onto the conc...check u-value, probably 7 per inch (memory fails). this acts as its own vapour barrier. Finish the stud wall sections with firred-out stdwork, insulate, and don't forget the VB. Glue the drywall onto the foam - and in all cases use latex-based adhesive.
For a nicer look just insulate the conc wall to a uniform height of the highest part (4' you say) and stuff insln into the extg std bays. D/W as usual, and top the bottom portion with a nice shelf. Sure, collects dust - but also yuor bowling trophies!!
Ciao for niao
***I'm a contractor - but I'm trying to go straight!***