I need some help in trying to locate studs behind a tiled wall (12×12 tiles), in order to attach a baby changing table in a restroom. The other side of the wall is also tiled. Once I do find the studs (if possible) I will then need to drill through the tile – how do I do this and what do I need for a bit? The change table has attachment points at 16″ on centre.
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Masonry bit in a hammer drill. Start no larger than a 3/16"
Find studs with an electronic stud finder like a Zircon
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"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit. The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are." --Marcus Aurelius
Hammer drill wall tile only if you have extra tiles and don't mind replacing when they crack. Otherwise just use a masonry bit in a regular drill.
I have had luck using the bits made for glass. They have a spear shaped piece of carbide at the tip. When using it I make a small dam, a cup in your case, of putty and form a little pond of water to keep everything cool. Avoid the hammerdrill. Use firm pressure until the tip bites and then lighten up a bit. Light and steady with stops for cooling and to gauge when you are about to break through. At the last back off.
I concur with 14Lorn. Once I had to drill dozens of holes in tiles to install coat hangers in a spa. The DIY masonary bit would last about 1 1/2 holes. So I got one of those spade/arrowhead shaped bits and a single one lasted for dozens of holes. [The tile surface is like glass.]
That settled - as to the location problem for the studs. If you can access the attic or basement, you may be able to pick up some clues - like nailing patterns. Or maybe second guess the original carpenter: If you were framing this, where would the studs go?
This is another case where photographs taken after the rough in stage would be useful, nicht wahr?
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Is it possible to move the height up or down a bit so you are just drilling through the grout lines?
masonary bit, at slow speed no hammer and just grind your way through the tile. What I usually do is use a carbide point, from a tile or glass cutter, to locate centre of the hole and give the drill point something to start on. Cellotape over the hole location is supposed to also work but I've never tried it. Got my self one of those real small diamond sharpners on the end of a plastic stick, the ones sold for sharpening pocket knives. A few strokes along the carbide after evey few holes keeps the drill cutting like new.
Ian
I'm with 4Lorn. There are tile-cutting bits that have worked better for me than anything else. Make sure you nick the tile with the tip first or it'll runaway on you. Should be about $7 for a pack of 4 sizes. Should get a dozen or more holes from one before the spear tip falls outta the shank.
I had to run some plumbing thru tile, and bought a diamond hole saw from a good tile supplier for it. Way pricey, $75 IIRC, but it produces absolutely flawless edges, and lasts a long time. Cut with relatively low RPM's and a little water from a squirt bottle.
-- J.S.
Stupid question time...Does the restroom have a sheetrock ceiling or a suspended ceiling?
If suspended, can you lift a tile to see how the wall was built?