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Any ideas on how to deal with a single ply rubber roof at the edges where it meets the drip edge? There must be a way to avoid piercing the membrane? Thanks.
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pauly... either the drip edge goes under the membrane or it goes over..
if it goes over, you ""strip it in "" ie: do your rubber.. then fasten the dripedge.. then glue another strip say 12" over both.. and use a rubber seam sealer on the joint..
this needs a little pitch to the roof so you don't form a dam...
if it goes under you make sure it is securely fastened and just glue to it like the rest of the rubber roof...
or is this some other situation i'm not following ?
*b WBA At Your ServiceMike, I have never seen a situation where the dripedge is installed first. It's always done as you describe where the edging is nailed over the top of the rubber membrane and then covered by a strip of uncured rubber with the manufacturer's recommended adhesive and cleaners. The edge of the uncured is either caulked with the recommended sealant (the old method), or is sealed with a special tape. Don't substitute any products made by another manufacurer.
*Pauly,I have done quite a few rubber roofs on small roofs from 8x12 up to about 20x30.If you fully adhere the membrane you won't have any problems glueing directly to the drip edge as mike described.The contact cement type adhesive will grab the drip edge better than the water based type.Either will work.A new ,clean substrate will make the glue job much easier.good Luck All,stephen
*Stephen, Thank you for the advice. Do you have any experience with tapered panels? The roof is 30' x 40' and dead flat with a knee wall on one side, open on the other three. Also, will it be difficult to remove the old BUR?Paul SomloGreeley, CO
*Sorry Paul,I have never used tapered panels so I can't offer any suggestions there.The safe assumption will be that tearing off the BUR will be a living hell.Occasionally you get lucky and the old roof comes up in huge slabs(in which case your problem is cutting it into small enough chunks to handle).On commercial roofs the weight of the membrane and the iso-board is minimal on a per square basis and frequently the BUR is left in place and the new membrane installed over top.You can also hire a specialty outfit which cuts and tears off old BUR for you,but that probably won't be cost effective on a 30x40 job.
*Stephen, I went up on the roof and the old BUR will come up in large pieces. How do I handle the roof vents with regard to laying the membrane and flashing?
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Any ideas on how to deal with a single ply rubber roof at the edges where it meets the drip edge? There must be a way to avoid piercing the membrane? Thanks.