ok… i have 16.5 ft alley way that i’m gating with access control… exit only…
i can… build a 16ft gate and have it operate on a sensor for car traffic/exit and have a keypad to open it by code for foot traffic (in and out) I understand you can program the opener to not fully open for foot traffic…
or… i can weld up the gate with a seperate walk through gate built into the gate… never seen one… (like thats even an issue…) but i feel like i’d have to build it on the hinge side and it would have to have a bottom brace (threshold) to keep the gate from folding up… i can support it from the top pretty well and even build in a spring loaded pin so that it can’t be opened when the whole gate is opened… i am concerned about twist… and i don’t like the idea of people have’n to step over the lower brace which might be 3-4″ above the drive… and it’d have to have access control on it also…
anyone seen anything like what i’m think’n about?
thanks
P
Replies
Sounds like Ye Olden Castle gates
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yes, I have, alot of europe type design. Like a wrought iron gate with a walk through in one half. so when the drive gate open, the walk trough moves with the gate.
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A man is a success if he gets up in the morning and gets to bed at night, and in between he does what he wants to do...
Do you need the whole 16 ft for one way traffic? (exit only, right?)
would a 3' gate next to a 12' drive gate work?
Having to step over could be an ADA issue, if that's at all a factor.
not really ada... because they could always open the whole gate for access...
i have concern for having to build it into a 4 sided frame leaving that bottom cross bar... for someone to trip over...
I know i'm over thinking this and try'n to make a 1 day welding project into something that has to be "engineered"
thanks for the input
p
Could you make it a "French" door of sorts -- one narrow and one wide door opening together for autos, just the narrow one for people? Would require two actuators, of course.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I certainly have seen gates (mostly sliding ones) with a built-in door like you describe, but usually not for the "general public". (And of course the scheme is popular for barn doors.)Actually, if the door were put at the extreme latch end of the gate, so that it latched to the same "jamb" as the gate, it wouldn't require a bottom cross-member. Would be a little tricky getting the door and gate to both latch reliably, however. (But on second thought it wouldn't have to latch to the gate jamb, it could latch on top, to the gate.)
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
P
My concern would be what happens when someone is going throug the gate and a car pulls up to trip the opener!
Someone's going to get hurt and I assume your the guy responsible?
No way to section off about 36" for a man gate and have the drive through approx 13' ?
Doug
The gate should be rigged so it won't open with the door open. But you're right that there's still a hazard, with a person approaching the gate from the inswing side.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Oh, I'd do something like this, from 2" square tubing, with some 1" infill. Maybe a body caught up in the web. Hinges on left. Main gate latch on the upper right. Human door latches to the top of the main gate, like someone else said; doorknob is in normal position, with a vertical actuator rod.View Image
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Edited 6/3/2007 9:38 pm by McDesign
man thanks for the design... i had first thought to put the walk thru on the latch side... then thought that i could box it in on the hinge side with better results...
wish i could draw online... but take your design... raise the post and gate(hinge side) about 3 ft and have a turn buckle slanting down toward the latch side...
in the past i've had really good results using auto front wheel drive bearings and hubs for the top & bottom hinges... i make the top mounting plate adjustable so that i can get even 500lb + gates to open & close with your finger tips...
with it having an electric gate operator it really doesn't require a gate latch... so dropping a 2x2 leg down the latch side with at least 2ft of gate above the "door" i think it would be stiff enough... i believe even this gate will have to pass the 4" rule so i can can see it getting into the 3-400lb range....
many thanks for the ideas
p
Why have a hinge.There are 3 kinds of gages -swing (which I think that you are talking aobut), sliding, and vertical.For a swinging gage you can have man gage, plus a single 10 ft or dual 5-6 ft gates.A slding gage would be a problem, maybe a double or tripple extending gate might work.But many commercial places don't use gates, but rather lift arms (like RR crossing arms)..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
i'm between 2 walls... and it has to be secure... single arm swing is really only thing that fits and is easy to build... the entry access on the other side will be a slide... but there is plenty of room there for the gate and a walk through gate... but thats 300ft walking distance away...
this will be the 4th one i've built using the cut down wheel hub & bearings... 1 1/4" shaft... overkill yes... but cheap to buy and easy to build... with proper adjustments very easy to swing which really saves your gate operator
p
Make the man door open in the direction opposite of the auto gate. (Ie, if the auto gate opens in the man door should open out.) This will provide the maximum safety in the event that the gate is accidentally actuated while someone is using the door.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin