I just finished framing out my walls in my new bathroom today.
I just set my “drop in tub” in concrete below it and put all the fittings together.
I used a drop in because I liked the tub and want to use wainscotting on two sides below the rims.
Thing is a drop in hasnt any flanges to put your CBU over to keep any water that may get through into the tub out.
I considered bending some vinyl to go behind the CBU up the stud wall an inch or so and out under the CBU with a 1/4″ pressure bend at the end than tile but that still doesnt seem much better than just using a good silicone.
Was kinda thinking of using Karnak in my caulking gun ..run a bead under the CBU and set the CBU into that…tile and silicone.
By the way I’m using Denshield (a first for me). I kinda think the Karnak might be a good idea in this instance as long as it doesnt leach out onto the tub which I doubt.
By the way this is being used as a tub / shower.
Any thoughts on my idea?
BE sealed
Namaste
andy
“As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can’t see how it is.”
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 3/18/2003 5:08:01 PM ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)
Replies
I am not sure if your definition of a "drop in tub" is the same as mine.
By my definition, it is a tub with a rim around all four sides, which drops into a knee wall enclosure. The knee wall has plywood decking on the top and sides, so the rim of the tub sits on this plywood. Along the exterior wall there is a similar knee wall.
The issue is when water hits the exterior tile wall, it will drop down to the top of the knee wall and there it sits. If you are really unlucky, it gets under the rim and rots your framing.
Am I close here?
The problem with this type of tub with a shower is that the tub rim is a good half inch above the ply and the water has no place to go.
So. . . since the homeowner likes the tub, there must be a workaround, right?
First, I'd membrane the CBU exterior walls with PVC, NobleTS or Laticrete 9235. No big deal there, but you knew that. One issue will be how to spec out the deck plane and the wall plane.
Second, on the wall deck joint, I'd hold the CBU up above the deck about a half inch. Terminate the membrane in that expansion joint. Start a new membrane, or continue the wall membrane at that point. If it is continued, the membrane would go in the joint, bottom out, and then come out onto the decking.
Third, membrane the decking, too.
Fourth, membrane the sides of the knee wall too, 'cause the water may flow over and onto them. Hope your wainscotting is tile, not wood.
Finally, I'd caulk the daylights out of the expansion joint and between the rim and deck. Tile as usual. Hope the water goes somewhere.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927
Andy,
I just had two of these last month. There is a flange kit sold seperately. I think it's Jacuzzi brand. It cost $30. It's made to screw to the flange that rolls down. I was using an Americast and didn't screw it to the tub but did to the wall studs. It is a formed piece of plastic that fits tight to the curved lip and gets caulked in.
I just layed my Denshield walls in today on three sides of the drop in tub.
I used Karnak Ultra wet / dry Flashing cement under the Denshield and after I screwed it in I Karnaked it from the rear walls which are still unrocked. Aint no way that will "ever" leak water.
After I tile I'll silicone the tile to tub line....I have NO doubt this is a great method now that I've done it but I'll let you know after I tile.....I'll test it like a M.F'er.
Be a tube of Karnak
NAmaste
andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM