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I started pulling up the linoleum and particle board to install tile in our dining room and found dry rot in the sub-floor, the original water leak from a window above had already been repaired previously. The dry rot is against an outside wall, non-load bearing, and may go under it.
What is the best way to deal with this? What is the easiest way to replace the sub-floor agianst and possibly under the wall?
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I have used a very thin epoxy to encapsulate the dry rot and provide additional structural strength. I purchased mine through
http://www.rotdoctor.com/
but there are a number of other suppliers including one listed on the Breaktime thread on "Drywood Termites". The stuff is not cheap - 2 quarts of the stuff will run about $40, or 2 pints for $28. You can brush it on but you may also want to get their oversized hypodermic needles for injecting it into the wood. There is quite a bit of information about using their product on the Rot Doctor web site.
There is a good article on fighting dry rot in boats with various products at
http://boatbuilding.com/content/rot.html
*Mike,I don't envy your task, but this may help:CaseyR gave a good lead and I believe the product he is recommending is Smith and Company's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. CPES is a 2-part epoxy liquid with viscosity somewhere honey and water. You can brush it on and/or drill holes (like into joists and studs) and fill them with the CPES.Smith also makes a 2-part epoxy filler strangely called "Fill-it". With the consistancy of regular putty, you can fill and patch your project. Can be sanded and drilled like normal putty.However, you DO NOT want to encapsulate dry rot: it should be chipped away to good wood which then can be treated will CPES and filled with Fill-it. In case the dry rot runs under the plate, replacement would depend on whether it is confined between 2 studs or covers a wider area. The same would apply to the subfloor between joists. If too great an area, it should be replaced which is not a big deal (just be certain to block the edges perpendicular to the joists). If relatively small, it can be repaired as above. Perhaps a back-up piece of plywood will be necessary underneath which can be glued to the underside of the existing subfloor and and supported with short ledgers nailed to the joists.Contact Smith and Co directly for better prices: 510-237-6842 or their website [email protected] where you will find a wonderful discussion about the restoration of wood.Prices from Smith are about $27/2 quart kit or $18/2 pint kit. Payment is check before delivery (No plastic)Good luck
*Sorry, but the address above Smith's e-mail address. They have quite a library of literature about their products which they can mail to you.dryrotcontrol.comIs Smith's comprehensive discussion about dry rot.woodrestoration.comIs Smith's empirical study of the product use and testing methods
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I started pulling up the linoleum and particle board to install tile in our dining room and found dry rot in the sub-floor, the original water leak from a window above had already been repaired previously. The dry rot is against an outside wall, non-load bearing, and may go under it.
What is the best way to deal with this? What is the easiest way to replace the sub-floor agianst and possibly under the wall?