Dry wall screw guns?
I need a new screw gun for dry wall. What do you guys like? How about cordless?
I need a new screw gun for dry wall. What do you guys like? How about cordless?
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Replies
Some here will knock it but i've had success w/ the 14v senco. My dad has one and we hung a 2000 sq ft house w/ no problems.
The only reason I dont have one of my own is that i'm trying to do less and less drywall (been using a sub).
My 0-2500 rpm Dewalt guns have been good to me. Slower speed can also do deck screws, teks, other fastenings needing more torque.
Bill
I have a Dewalt. Works well, but I don't hang that much drywall.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00002233S/qid=1132626804/br=1-7/ref=cl_tr_br_cl//002-1240929-5511266?v=glance&s=hi&n=552978
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Stacy's mom has got it going on.
Hudson, I use the Senco 14v Duraspin and that thing is fantastic. It's a lil tough to sink 'em in the corners but once you get used to it your golden. Have one battery on the charger while you burn out the other and you'll be good all day long. Only drawback is you have to buy specific screws but that thing pays for itself on the first job.
Matt
If this link works, I've used this w/any screw gun and it works
perfect for only $7.00. It is a great buy.
Model TC1
$6.59
Add to Cart
Add to Registry
COMPARE
Vermont American Tool 1/4 In. Drywall Screw Setter
Vermont American Tool
1/4 In. Drywall Screw Setter
Model 4219176
href='http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1851943856.1132661700@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdaddgfjifmmfcgelceffdfgidgkk.0&MID=9876' http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1851943856.1132661700@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdaddgfjifmmfcgelceffdfgidgkk.0&MID=9876target='_blank'>http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1851943856.1132661700@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccdaddgfjifmmfcgelceffdfgidgkk.0&MID=9876>
The link didn't work. Did you mean this?
http://www.vermontamerican.com/products/productdetail.htm?G=157751&GRP=169581
http://www.vermontamerican.com/Products/productdetail.htm?G=157751&GRP=169591No,
Maybe this one will
Thanks to all for your good advice. I'm glad to hear that the Senco guns are working our well but I'll have to hang a few boards with one of those before I'd be ready to switch. As I recall, the last time I looked at those the screws were very pricey, about three-four times the cost of regular, so I decided to wait until some aftermarket companies came up with a cheaper hardware alternative before buying that gun. Looks kinda of heavy too.
Butch, I appreciate the Vermont Tool drill adapter. It looks like a good thing to have as a back up if my screw gun quits. I'll definitely pick one up and try it out.
Makita has been my favorite gun for years, mainly because they are reliable, very light and short bodied. But they're also noisy, need earplugs when you have a bunch of them going around you.
Here's a tip. Try hanging boards the old fashioned way. Nail the tapered edges, then come back and screw the field and the ends. It's much easier to get the board up quickly that way, weight off of you and partner. The nails will never pop because their buried in mud and tape. Definitely use a drywall hammer.
Thanks again for your help.
Here's a tip. Try hanging boards the old fashioned way. Nail the tapered edges, then come back and screw the field and the ends. It's much easier to get the board up quickly that way, weight off of you and partner. The nails will never pop because their buried in mud and tape. Definitely use a drywall hammer.
Thats the pro way to hang. It gets edge nailed while its under head pressure so you can turn loose of it . Also the edges are double nailed.
Tim
The nails will never pop because their buried in mud and tape.Sorry, but I'm gonna hafta disagree w/you on this one,I see nail pops under tape all the time.
Do you have any idea what causes nail pops on tapered joints? I wonder if it's the framing material? Spruce or ? Nailing into doug fir has never given me any problems with pops. Of course you have to cover your near misses.
<Do you have any idea what causes nail pops on tapered joints?>I guess the same reason that nails pop in the field.That's why I NEVER use nails and to me screws are fasterand just make more sense for a trouble free job.I see you are new to break time. Welcome and stick aroundbecause there is a lot of good info. to be learned on this site.
<I guess the same reason that nails pop in the field.
That's why I NEVER use nails and to me screws are faster
and just make more sense for a trouble free job.>
I come from the time BSG (before screw guns, nail guns too) when everything was nailed by hand. Framing material was almost always douglas fir which holds nails very well. I've hung a lot of rock using nails only and never heard of any problems with pops on my work.
I'm of the opinion that poor framing techniques and poor framing material, spruce in particular, are what cause most pops. When the studs/joists aren't crowned and the top plates don't line up it's difficult to make drywall fit well. Tough on the taper too.
<I'm of the opinion that poor framing techniques and poor framing material, spruce in particular, are what cause most pops.>I beleive 80% is caused by wet lumber drying out(poor framing mat.)<When the studs/joists aren't crowned and the top plates don't line up it's difficult to make drywall fit well.>The other 20%
another reason not mentioned yet is too long of a nail or screw. you want it just long enough to keep the dw tight to the surface, 3/4" or so, this way when the wood shrinks it takes the dw with it. too long and the screw basically stays with the stud's center which doesnt move, so there ends up a space between face of wood and back of dw, someone leans against it, pop.
hope this helps. rich
i'll disagree on the nail pops under tape as well. and agree with the makita rocket gun. the senco is ok, but in skilled hands the makita will whup it for speed every time, plus the screws and the gun are cheaper (and always available).
-------"the test of a first-rate intelligence is the ability to hold two opposed ideas in mind at the same time and still retain the ability to function. one should, for example, be able to see that things are hopeless and yet be determined to make them otherwise."- f. scott fitzgerald
Generally, I like Makita tools, but I find the drywall screw guns too bulky to be comforatble. When hanging drywall, I tend to lock the gun on and hold the body of the gun rather high on the handle, so the bulk of it makes a difference.
I prefer the Dewalt, which is the closest thing now available to the perfect drywall screw gun - a Rockwell (I have one of those, too).
Ron
For like $35 you could get a nice used Milwakee corded out of my garage.
Works fine, I just don't use it much now that I got the Senco Dura Spin.
That link doesn't work but I just went to
Homedepot.com and found it there. They sell them at
the store.
I don't have a edit delete/ button at the bottom of my
previous post, Does anybody know why?
Edited 11/22/2005 7:24 am ET by butch
I don't have a edit delete/ button at the bottom of my
previous post, Does anybody know why?
Dead man walking.
This is what I like.
View Image
http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=2547
Mon Coeur S'ouvre A Ta Voix
http://www.vocalperformers.com/JoyceWerry.htm
"The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed -- and hence clamorous to be led to safety -- by menacing it with an endless series of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary."
-- Henry Louis Mencken (1880-1956)
''Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.'' Plato
Mike----that is a most EXCELLENT bumper sticker---- I have GOT to have one.
also enjoy the quotes.
Stephen
Here ya go!
http://dontblamemeivoted4kerry.com/page4.htmlMon Coeur S'ouvre A Ta Voix
http://www.vocalperformers.com/JoyceWerry.htm
"The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed -- and hence clamorous to be led to safety -- by menacing it with an endless series of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary."-- Henry Louis Mencken (1880-1956)
''Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.'' Plato
TAKE IT TO THE TAVERN.
When in doubt, I tend to purchase Porter-Cable. So, last May, when I had a vacation home to drywall, I purchased a Porter-Cable drywall gun. It's ok but the balance isn't all that great. Also, a tiny steel piece at the tip falls off every now and then. My buddy has a Dewalt and I think it's better than the Porter-Cable.
ChipTam
I have the 14v Senco and the corded model, and to be honest, I use the corded model a lot more. It has more power and doesn't run out of gas. The cordless comes in handy when I need three hands for hanging DW over my head. Still talking drywall here, not lynching the wife.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
Everyone of you is wrong. ; ^ )
The new generation Hilti guns ROCK
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
If you want to hang a minimum of 40 sheets in a day, this is the gun to use:
THE DEWALT DW255
Clicking on the above link will take to his guns profile at DeWalt's web site This is the gun that some of the biggest drywall contractors prefer. A few of them do use the Hilti, but I like DeWalt's 255 the best. My third preference would probably be the Makita.
-T
Edited 11/22/2005 9:53 pm ET by JourneymanCarpenterT
Edited 11/22/2005 9:54 pm ET by JourneymanCarpenterT
I guess I'll be the oddball and vote for Milwaukee's gun.
I too lock the gun on and hold it by the rear and it it fits my hand well.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Hey, thanks for all the suggestions. I'll check out the Dewalt guns and Hilti too, before I decide. I always liked Milwakee guns for their quality but they are heavy.
A tip for ceilings. I designed horses with small steps, mid-way up each leg. The horses are built to my fit my height, so that when I'm standing on the planks with the board on my head, it's tight to the ceiling. Make the legs wider than normal so that the horse won't tip when you put weight on the step. A small piece of closed cell foam under your ball cap will prevent pain. Helps to have a partner who's about the same height.
I'm not a pro, but I also disagree on using ANY nail with drywall. Mud and tape won't keep a nail from being squeezed out of the studs by seasonal changes.
I have single-speed Makita and a VS Milwaukee, both corded models. The Makita is very fast and takes a little practice, while the VS Milwaukee is a little more forgiving of us non-pros. I think the Milwaukee has a better grip than the Makita, and is more comfortable to use.
Overknight,
OK. Screws hold better. We can all agree on that. But it's not the nail's fault. It's either the density of the wood or the original moisture content which allows drywall nails to pop. Or it's simply misses that don't get pulled or covered by another nail. My experience with drywall is that nails work well when applied correctly in KD fir or other relatively dense framing material.
The reason that pros nail off the tapered edges is so that they can hang boards quickly. Get the weight off themselves in a few seconds by reaching up and tapping a few into the top plate, nails which have been started before raising the board off the floor. Of course we're talking about horizontals but it works the same way with stand-ups. Two guys cutting and hanging with nails, then coming back with screws is very fast and almost never leaves any pops. I've done 100+ board apartments in one day with my old partner using nails and never heard a word from the taper or the super about pops. That's 12' 5/8" horizontals. A lot of nails. Almost 5000-6000 per day.
On the other hand, missing with screws often makes it harder for the taper than covering a missed nail. Pulling a screw out leaves a soft spot which is hard to fill without making a bulge which needs sanding.
Since the rockers used smooth-shanked nails to fasten all of the drywall in my house, I admit to having personal issues with nails and drywall. Also, the floor joists the framers used were green 2X12's; I don't know if the studs were green or kiln-dried, but bewteen the smooth nail and the moving floor joists, I have nail-pop city. I'm sure if ring-shanked nails and maybe some adhesive were used, I wouldn't be having half of the pops I have. Again, I'm not a pro, but in the rooms I've re-fastened the drywall with screws, there are no further nail or screw pops.Where in the Hudson Valley are you? I lived in Ulster/Dutchess counties for about 15 years. It's a beautiful area.
I'll second the Milwaukee corded. I would buy the more generic version instead of the 0-4000 rpm model though. They are pretty much only for drywall, which is what you want if you're a drywaller, but not too handy for a handyman.
<<Where in the Hudson Valley are you? I lived in Ulster/Dutchess counties for about 15 years. It's a beautiful area.>>
Western Orange County. It's is a beautiful place to live, in the spring, summer and fall.
Smooth shank drywall nails are rosin coated. That's supposed to help them hold. As you said, probably the green lumber caused the problem.