Drywall against fiberglass tub enclosure
Bergsteiger
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I just installed a new Kohler fiberglass tub unit and need to install the drywall that will overlay the tub lip. I guess most people just butt it against the fiberglass and then caulk & paint it, but I have seen cases where the paper surface of the drywall later pulls away from the underlying gypsum core. I was wondering if anyone had successfully used any kind of edge treatment on the drywall, such as J-bead or channel to solve this potential problem. It seems like this would be a more durable as long as you could get it in plastic instead of metal which might eventually rust.
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I was also going to use normal drywall for this application, unless anyone thinks the green stuff makes more sense.
Replies
I am confused. Are you surrounding your tub with DRYWALL?
Coming to you from beautiful Richmond, Va.
It is a one-piece fiberglass tub/enclosure with tub walls on three sides to go up about 5' or 6'. The fourth side would be a shower curtain or glass doors. So I am talking about where the drywall butts into the edges of the enclosure.
Gotcha!Coming to you from beautiful Richmond, Va.
Usually the drywall doesnot seperate from the fiberglass if there is a 2 x 4 flat backing so the FB flange and DW board is screwed to the same member.
Hold the DW back from the surround edge by an 1/8th inch or so, and use Durabond to seal the transition. I usually fir out the studs beyond the surround so the rock lays flat on the flange.
If I understand your situation - you've got a foot or so above the tub enclosure that you need to close off - anything that's going to have water/steam exposure should at least be green board (aka moisture resistant drywall) or some other kind of moisture resistant material - how are you planning on finishing that area? another thing to be sure of is to "fair" out the wall so you don't have a significant angle at the transition from the surround going up the wall - lots of alternatives to drywall available for wet areas
I've always shimmed the studs out in that area to keep the rock from being angled. I have recently seen another take on this, and honestly not sure what I think yet. The rock was cut right at the edge of the flange (so now you have a good inch and a half gap there) which they filled with straight durabond, taped, and ez-sanded the top layer.
"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
for bulletproof ...
use rips of backerboard in place of those last rips of drywall.
Then ... durobond it smooth.
I say Durobond ... but actually use National Gypsum "Stay Smooth" Lite.
I find 45 to work the best for me.
and still ... shim it so it lays flat ... and keep a small gap for the caulk to fill.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I have shimmed the studs flush with the fiberglass. I think I will go with the idea of leaving a small gap and then use Durabond or caulk to fill the gap.
Thanks for all the great ideas guys.
I usually pad out the studs,Hang the rock a light 1/4 inch shy of the enclosure, install plastic fasmask butting to enclosure, finish, remove the tear off bead, caulk.
Yep, J-bead works fine...either a metal J or the paper L-bead. Leave a small gap to fill with caulk either paintable or silicone, your choice. If you use a good couple of coats of alkyd primer first that'll help stop rusting. I've often put a plastic trim around, which is ok too. Ditto some painted or varathaned trim. Ditto a course of border tiles. The world's your oyster.
Cheers