Was wondering about drywalling the bathroom that I am redoing and was wondering if I should drywall the ceiling first or the walls? Does it matter?
Also since I have a 9 foot ceiling would I be better of buying 4 x 10 sheets and cutting them to fit or 4x 8 and piecing it? Also if it is the latter that would be better-should the seam go to the top or the bottom of wall? Does greenboard come in 4 x 10?
Replies
Normally you do the ceiling first, then the walls are shoved up to butt against the ceiling. This is especially useful in the top floor of a truss-roofed house, as it allows the edges of the ceiling to be left loose (no screws within about 16 inches of the edge), so that truss uplift doesn't cause cracking at the wall/ceiling joint.
Though it varies with situation, generally it's best to install wall sheets horizontally, using as long of sheets as you can handle. When using 4-foot-wide sheets with a 9 or 10 foot wall, opinions vary as to whether the narrow strip should go near the floor or near the ceiling. Placing the narrow strip near the ceiling is helpful if all of your wall switches are below the 4-foot line -- no cutting for switches or outlets is required in the upper sheets.
Note that 5-foot-wide sheets are available in some areas.
... drywall the ceiling first or the walls? Does it matter?
Most people do the ceiling first, but I don't see any reason it makes a difference (if no trusses are involved). If one or the other works better for the blocking that's installed at your bathroom, let that guide your decision.
... since I have a 9 foot ceiling would I be better of buying 4 x 10 sheets and cutting them to fit or 4x 8 and piecing it?
Generally speaking, what you want to do is minimize the taping you have to do. Also, I think it's critical to avoid butt joints. Taping and mudding a valley created by two adjacent tapered edges is much, much easier than a belly seam. So whatever you do, plan your layout to avoid butt joints.
Your two options are to orient the sheets vertically or horizontally. Again, the existing framing will help you determine which way will work better for your situation.
...Also if it is the latter that would be better-should the seam go to the top or the bottom of wall?
Keep the tapered edges out of the corners -- it will make mudding the corners a lot easier. If this means making extra cuts to eliminate the tapered edges, take the time to do it.
Edited 7/22/2007 10:45 pm ET by Ragnar17
I have seen a lot of debate about this among members on this forum, but I have never seen a professional drywaller run his walls first, or hang sheets vertically.
I have seen pros hang sheets vertically, in commercial applications. May have had to do with avoiding butt seams in long hallways.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I think the really good drywallers know that the really good taper that comes after them will be able to hide any kind of drywall sheet layout, horizontal with butt joints etc. I think that a homeowner or someone with not much taping practice should do themselves a favour and hang sheets vertically, tapered edge to tapered edge.
the really good taper that comes after them will be able to hide any kind of drywall sheet layout, horizontal with butt joints etc.
Professional tapers are great at what they do. However, the problem with butt joints is the way it impacts finish carpenters (like me).
A big belly seam is nearly imperceptible until you have to put a stiff piece of trim across it. Then the trim teeters on the bulge, and it's a real PITA to remedy the situation.
I agree with you that the do-it-yourselfer should avoid the butt joints altogether; I wish more professionals would do the same.
In most residential settings, if you use 10/12 foot drywall you can avoid 90% of vertical joints altogether (except in corners, of course).
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I've hung a lot of commercial dw vertically. Probably 90% on metal studs. The reasons I was given were (a) most commercial ceilings are drop ceilings and not having butt joints at the wall mold line means a flatter finished wall, (b) most ceiling heights are over 8' high, so 10,12,14,and 16 board vertical gets the board above the grid line and accomplishes (a).
Dave
On 9' ceilings we use 54" wide sheets. One horizontal seam is alot easier to tape than 2 verticles.
Matt
I always run drywall on the walls horizontally. That way you can tape and mud it comfortably versus standing on a ladder.
On the ceiling, I just did a repair on a small laundry room ceiling that was previously plastered in a home built in 1860. The ceilng was out of square 1-1/2" in 4 ft. on one side and almost 2" in 4 ft. on the other side. Rather than kill myself trying to fit one piece, I made the ceiling in 2 pieces which made it much easier to deal with the gross out of square condition.
Good luck,Frank
Bossman,
Ceilings should always be done 1st, if you don't you leave the section between ceiling joists un-supported, and for a bath (moisture) that's not a good idea. In all rooms gravity will win over time, so hang the ceiling 1st.
As to vertical or horizontal, which ever way gives you the least butt joints, or look into the "backer boards" (brand name escapes me) that you use on your butt joints, but the joints are layed out so that they fall between the studs, the backer creates a "valley" like a tapered edge so you can tape and mud without the bulge of a butt joint.
Geoff
The brand I use is called Butt Boards which I buy at the drywall supply store. They run about $3 a piece. I used them on my house and just did the basement of my daughter's house and they work great on 1/2 inch rock. I did use them on some 5/8 rock but they were much harder to work with as it does not flex easily.
That's the one ! Thanks for the memory assist :)
Geoff