Replies

1. 
   BossHog | Apr 02, 2016 07:00am | #1

   Just for rough estimating I usually figure 1 bucket of all purpose and 1 bucket of lightweight for every 10 sheets of 4x12 drywall.

2. 
   renosteinke | Apr 02, 2016 08:46am | #2

   Sounds Like A CUSStomer

   .... And they just can't help themselves!

   I once had to repair flood damage in a finished basement; the rock was already up, just add mud, tape, and corner bead. The CUSStomer was so afraid of 'waste,' they insisted on buying the mud by the gallon. I used just under four gallons.  That not only cost way more ($15/ 5-gal bucket vs. $8/ gallon pail), but time was lost for four trips to the home mart.)

   What can I say? Some folks just have to micro-manage. You can forget doing a good job, or working efficiently. They're not about to let you use setting-type compound, or skim coat things. Drywall primer? Never heard of it. Priming at all? Who needs it?

   The crazy part is that you do such a poor job, and the CUSStomer waxes poetic about how beautiful it is!

   I should have known better. The same folks had me paint their weathered wood fence white with latex paint, and did not want to "waste" money on a Kilz or shellac primer. Result? The knotholes shone like beacons before the paint was dry. They had me apply several coats, to no avail- but they were not about to 'waste' money on primer. Go figure.

   To answer your question, I'd guess four buckets. A lot depends on - no surprise here - your workmanship and how the pieces fit in. I'd also want a small box of 'hot' mud, for patching around electrical boxes and such.

3. 
   deadnuts | Apr 03, 2016 09:15am | #3

   When it comes to drywall work, the "ingredients" are far less expensive than the labor. 1 per 10 will get you pretty close; to the point where the difference shouldn't matter. By calling it close you might be looking at a material cost savings of $25-50 in this case. Calling it short could cost twice as much-- if your time is of reasonable value.

   Of more concern is the fact that the homeowner is weighing in on this aspect of job material purchases. Sounds like you're acting less like an independent contractor that sets their own rates and contract terms (hint: homeowner shouldn't be "getting" any material) and more like an employee that works for the homeowner strictly by the hour. If it is the latter, than perhaps you are in a "no win" situtaiton which you may want to extract yourself from as soon as possible.