Drywall corner beading with metal/paper
I’ve begun using the paper-backed corner beading and am having some issues. The beauty of it is supposed to be that it doesn’t need nailing. However, I’m having some problems in getting it to adhere. I’m setting it in a layer of mud, but parts of the paper wants to pull up. Any suggestions.
Replies
I've seen a lot of crews using adhesive spray.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Thanks. that sounds interesting.
We only use tape on bead. Are you getting blisters? Use only all purpose mud and make sure there is enough on the wall to bed it properly. When wiping it down you should be on top of part of the metal, not just the tape and your knife should be turned slightly to be pushing the mud out of the bead.
When applying a lot of bead there is a device that you use to pull the bead through the mud before it goes on the wall, premudding it. These can be bought or made.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
I am getting blisters. I guess I'm not putting down enough mud. I'll try that. Thanks.
Be careful with addhesive, make sure you get one that gives you working time to plumb it up properly. We only use addhesives with vinyl radiused bead, generally speaking.
I deal with blisters this way. When they show up in the first coat while the mud is drying, I rub in the blister up and down with my finger. This sets the paper to the mud, and on the next coat it is not an issue. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
I'll guess that now you see the advantage of nailed on metal corner beads coated with a setting type compound.
I'll never use a paper corner.
Period.
[email protected]
I see no advantage of metal over paper. I switched to paper a few years ago and will never go back. The metal in the paper type is thicker making a straighter corner. It can stand up to abuse a lot better, in my opinion. And it's more "bathroom friendly" which I do a lot.
I've had the worst time getting the paper corners to align with the wall as I wanted them, rather than how they wanted to sit naturally, in order to take out undesireable irregularities near the corner once floated--not that we're talking much. Just adding additional mud to make up for the amount I wanted to move the corner didn't seem to work well.
Am I missing something or does the corner have to be floated out with hot mud in advance for the corner to sit right in those cases?
Every time it comes up I think of the messing around time vs. just stapling up a metal corner and haven't tried enough paper corners to have learned anything.
Cheers
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
keep at it , buddy. I haven't used old metal corners for 8? 10? years and really wouldn't want to go back. Use a wide knife if you need help to get it set "just right" (to chck your raised edge above the board) and be sure your mud is wet enough. You can move the bead around easily once it's on, before you mush it it too well. good luck
rod
You may have a brand problem. The stuff commonly sold at Depot is a low grade. Beadex (USG) is a much better product (more metal). Of course its nice to start with a nice straight corner. ; ^ ) Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
this is the one and only problem with your corners....your mud needs to be wetter so that it will bond to the paper.