Drywall cutouts are a dream with the RotoZip…except for bathroom heater fans in the ceiling. I’m using 5/8″ drywall and I cut the holes for the heater with the rotozip a while back when I was slinging rock. The problem is this:
The edge of the heater fan is 22ga sheetmetal with the sharp edge bent out. Using the rotozip with the “feeler” bit didn’t work so well as the 1/4 inch feeling edge of the bit was hard to locate with the knife edge of the heater. Lotsa sparks (Before anyone asks, no it was not the wiring!) Yea I shoulda measured instead of using the quick tool.. Live and learn.
So how do I cure the scalloped edge of the drywall ceiling next to the fan box? I’ve done the paper tape, mud, and dress dance on receptical boxes. That works fine on the verticals but the overhead gaps vary from none to 1/2 – 1 inch. The gap is extreme and I need help filling this area. A buddy suggested the metal edging, or even the metal edging in the paper tape for corners. This is my next attempt.
Does anyone know of a better way to speed up this correction?
Replies
Booch,
Cut it back 2", plop up some 1x4 and screw into it. Screw in some 2" strips. Now it's just another joint.
Down the 84º bayou,
KK
I agree, but would cut it back far enough to cut the fan hole in a new piece of dw, then cut the ceiling out to match the plug. Say for a 8" hole, cut the hole first, and then cut a 12" square around it. Hold the new piece over the fan opening and trace around the outside. Cut out the marked area, insert a couple of 1x4s with screws and then the new patch with the proper size hole. Tape and finish the four edges.
Dave
Nice aproach. I got another recomendation to use Durabond 20 (I think it is a setting type of mud. That and either the metal edging or the paper Tape.
I don't think it is that bad really it is just the last major repair left to do. Then again by professional standards it is probably weak.
ThanksJack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
Use fiber tape. Tape it on and go past the cut out a couple of inches . It will hold. Spread durabond over it and it will set as hard as the rock or harder . The fiber will hold it in place . You could have taken care of it when you were taping with just thick mud and tape , but you need to get out of that job now . Durabond 20, 30 , 45, 90, are working times in minutes . It will go off and be ready for a finish coat of regular mud after that time as you can coat over durabond thats not done cooking .
Tim Mooney
I'm looking forward to it now. Up til this it was one of those jobs that I planned to get to later. Now to find the durabond! I'm sure any major contractor supplier will have it on the shelf.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?