What would you do? I removed lath and plaster from the walls on the main floor of my house. The window frames stick out 1″ from the studs. Would you fur out the wall with 1/2″ strips of osb, plus 1/2″ sheetrock or double up 1/2″ sheetrock to get to 1″?
Thanks.
Replies
I've done both. Double DW makes for a more sound-deadening, dense wall, which I like better. The only PIA is that I seem to have an uncanny knack for screwing into the screws I put in the first layer. ;-(
Another option you don't mention, and it's already too late for you anyway, is to leave the lath and use 5/8". That works well too.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I would fur it out and use the addition space for a little more insulation. You can also use a long straight edge and adjust your furring strips to flatten out the bowed studs, and add any blocking you might need for future trim or builtins.
On one old house, I used half inch osb to add shear to the old walls, then SR over that. You could hang a picture anywheres without worrying.
for most, I would prefer to install 4x8 sheets of 1/2"Thermax foil faced foam for added insulation, then the SR
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This is what I love about this forum! OP asks a straightforward question and gets three different and thoughtful answers based on circumstances not stated in the question but possibly relevant.BruceT
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my shop is done that way,osb/sheetrock. i love it,want to hang a tool ,just shoot a screw. if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
I like that idea. Thanks for the input. I already put in fiberglass batts and a poly vapor barrier. Do you see any issue with putting the foam over the vapor barrier? There are still a few areas that the poly isn't up, so really I can do it either way.
Not sure if I'm missin somethin or misunderstanding.....
I did some trim work for a friend after he re-did some plaster work in his house..Stripped the plaster and lathe, hung 1/2" blueboard, and skim coated. He wanted craftsman style trim, so I did 3-1/2"x 3/4" square stock on sides, 4" on top with a 1-1/2" molding on top of that. I padded out the outside edge of the trim to make up the difference in thickness....Only 4 windows, but it went pretty quick. Glued and sanded the edges, can't tell now that it's painted that it's two pieces of wood. I suppose if you had a beefier stock, you could do the opposite and rabbet out the part that laps onto the window.
Bing
veneer coat plaster on blueboard usually goes on thicker with more build than sheetrock finishing mud. Sometimes, the plasterers will even use the jambs as a land for the trowel to build TO that surface, to male the trim guy's work easier.
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Not sure what question you think I had, or if you're answering someone else's question...I'm familiar with how veneer coat plaster works; it's all I've really ever worked on. I was suggesting that instead of padding the whole wall out the 1/2" difference between old lathe plaster/new blueboard and skim coat, he pad the backside of the outside of the trim...Or am I missing something else?
This actually raises a point I've almost started a thread about before....Not to hi-jack, but I find that with sc plaster, the windows are almost always 1/16 shy of the plaster. IIRC, there was mention of this in an issue on trim to the point where the author had his boot on the wall trying to pull the window in....I've wondered why the manufacturers don't increase the depth a little, or do you think the depth is based on a drywall depth=a little thinner? Curious.
Bing
Good point. The actual measure of the wall with 1/2" sheetrock would be 4-1/2" but the typical made jamb is 4-9/16 to allow for swelling and finish ( which obviously is not enough for plaster veneer or when 5/8" rock is used) but it is still not quite enough often for normal walls.I wasn't answering a q, so much as just just fleshing out what your previous comment had been,
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As long as there is less than 1/3rd of the insulation on the warm side of the vapour barrier you are fine.
no problem. if taped, the foam can act as the VB. The prob with a doubled VB is when you trap materials between the two plies.
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Re. 1/2" foil faced foam, did you put it behind fiberglass insul?
Any issue with the moisture barrier? I've never seen foam inside of the fiberglass.
I presume you used unfaced fiberglass?
I like the idea but never thought to foam inside the structure.
I'm actually surprised people are still just now learning this.The principle is out there thirty years at least now.
The foam panel belongs on the interior side of the studs when in a heating climate with more than 7000 degree days heating. A moderate climate you can do it on either side, depending all all the other variables. In a cooling climate, it belongs on the exterior side of the wall assembly.I do use unfaced usually, but faced is fine too. see previous posts.
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my house i picked up a bunch of damaged 5/8 rock,then hung 1/2 over it. in a rental i riped a bunch of 1 1/2 wide strips out of 1/2 ply,that went pretty fast as 2 nails in a strip was good.
haven't done this,but: how about 1/2 stryfoam and the rock over it? 2 birds one stone. i don't know how firm it would be for the rock
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
I vote for 1/2" EPS foam under 1/2" GWB.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
I do foam exterior walls and osb interior. I have done the osb then DW in a kitchen. It was great! Hang cabinets anywhere. But in this day and age the foam on exterior is an economic must IMO. DanT
"But in this day and age the foam on exterior is an economic must IMO. "Depends on climate and the rest of the insulation/ventilation design - not an absolute, some places absolutely wrong.
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Why EPS?
Polyisoanurate has nearly twice the R-value.
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EPS is a lot cheaper and polyiso has only about 63% more R value per inch than EPS.Not knowing his full wall section, I would feel more comfortable with the higher permeability of EPS.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
I would use the wood lath to fur out the studs, then use whatever suitable thickness of drywall. In old houses in my area, jambs generally extend 3/4" or 7/8" beyond the studs, so the old lath plus 1/2" drywall usually does the trick. Just be sure to use long enough drywall screws that they grab in to the stud and not just the furring strips. Personally, I glue both to make it really rock solid.
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Whatever you do, don't forget to put the scrap in the wall cavities.
Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
I'd double up on the 1/2" sheetrock. Use glue on the studs on the first layer and on the second layer apply setting compound with a 1/4" ceramic tile throwel and screw sporadically in the field.. Then the next day I'd remove the field screws.
End result..a truly straight wall that will never have any pops.
Interesting. Would be quite too.
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