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These plywood clips allow you to strengthen the walls around pocket doors to support shelves, cabinets, and other fixtures.
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IMO Regular is ok for most basements.
But if you are prone to the odd flood due to a non functioning sump pump caused by a power failure. Try this. Use Hardi backer for the first 12 to 24 inches from the floor. It takes paint well and looks very close to regular dry wall when painted. And won't fall apart if it gets wet. After a flood you may have to repaint after it dries but the water won't wick up and destroy the walls.
1/2" is good?
Does the hardibacker resist dings and dents or is it fragile?
!/2 is fine
The hardi is better at resisting dings than dry wall"No doubt exists that all women are crazy; it's only a question of degree." - W.C. Fields
Hardie backer is cement I believe. Most I have seen is 1/4" thick. The paperless drywall is what I would use if there is any serious moisture potential.
One can put down pt bottom plate, put the sill foam or other barrier, build wall with regular bottom plate and stand it up. Hold the regular drywall off the floor 1 1/2" then use some of the composite baseboard. If water gets more than 1 1/2" deep you are in serious trouble anyway.
I use green rock for most basements. Even those where HO insists moisture is not an issue.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I think USG has a yellow board out that is paper free so it is idea for a basement since it retareds mold. Have not had the chance to try it. Other wise goes on like regular sheetrock.
Wallyo
just finished a basement using GP DensArmor Plus
other than the face being rougher textured than standard it seems great.
HD had it in stock and it wasn't that much more expensive than regular.
definitely would use it again.
probably not a product to be used with anything other than flat paint or where an owner would be a stickler for perfect drywall finish.
http://www.gp.com/BUILD/product.aspx?pid=4659
carpenter in transition