We want to drywall some office space in a building we’re leasing. I’d rather not fir out the walls.
Can I glue the board to the block with PL and spring boards and get decent results?
Ditch
We want to drywall some office space in a building we’re leasing. I’d rather not fir out the walls.
Can I glue the board to the block with PL and spring boards and get decent results?
Ditch
Learn more about the benefits and compliance details for the DOE's new water heater energy-efficiency standards.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 70%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
The short answer is yes and it's easier if you use a few tapcons to hold the sheet in place as it sets.
Also, if you predrill the holes a little smaller than the thread diameter, cheap deck screws will do the job also.
Gabe
Enerfoam was developed for that kind of application. You want to be darn sure that no water is coming through the wall though, and if you can find guys with the right skills, it can actually be easier to plaster over the block
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Isn't it easier to use furring channel? (hat channel). We always used to use a ramset or hilti and have it up in a few hours. You only lose an inch and you get a nice even surface for taping.
L
Yes but why? Don't you need any outlets there? If not, you can laminate the drywall with joint compound or drywall adhesive.
BUT, You can always use 1 x 2 metal studs, just in case you need to run wires or remove the drywall.
and you can always plaster the walls with the D-Mix. or with 2-3 coats of joint compound.
yup.
just run enough "blocking" to hold her there.
or ...
a coupla tap cons ...
or ... coupla short roofing nails driven into the mortar joints.
they'll catch ... just abit ... just stop when they catch ...
then ... after it's all set up ... either hammer them flat and mud over or pull them out and patch ... which's easier ....
sometimes ya get lucky and they'll hold .. then bend .. and help lock the drywall in place .... but don't play with it too much ... as one more smack can loosen the whole thing.
we've made 3.5 x 7.5 frames to set against the drywall then braced those to the floor or opposing walls.
BTW ... Angela said OK to the floor price.
I'm planning on laying the 1/4" stuff and then start trimming sometime this week.
Was supposed to have my big to her by this weekend ... but ....
oh well ... Tomorrow's another day.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Thanks to all who justified my cheap method.
I knew Jeff would know how to glue board to block....he had the nicest cell at Western Penn.
Ditch
Just use tension pins for hanging drop ceiling wall mold to fasten the DW.
Beats the heck out of tapcons or roofing nails. Those small case hardened nails will bite in the block and hold. When the glue sets, finish normally.
Dave
I've heard of such things ...
never seen or used them.
thanks for the reminder .. have to locate some.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA