I live in a house built on slab which has had considerable movement. I’ve spent $15K on piers! My problem it still keeps moving & cracks are showing up where there were none before. <!—-><!—-> <!—->
<!—-><!—->
The problem is caused by the Black Gumbo which expands when wet & shrinks when dry. The piers supported the outside wall but I didn’t want to mess up the inside by drilling piers inside. As a consequence the perimeter stays put while the center moves causing the new cracks. My question is what would be the best material to fill the cracks. If I use spackling compound it will still crack or open up as the slab moves. If I use a external Caulk it is not supposed to harden and will move as the crack closes but will it expand as the crack opens? <!—-><!—->
<!—-><!—->
The next is to use a Marine caulk with has adhesive properties but I don’t think it will adhere very well to the drywall. <!—-><!—->
<!—-><!—->
The bottom line is to put fiberglass tape over the crack. With 1/8″ cracks will the fiberglass hold up?<!—-> <!—->
<!—-><!—->
Add to this some walls are papered & others are painted and stippled & I will have a hard time matching the stipple. <!—-><!—->
<!—-><!—->
I’m sure many others have has a similar problem. Does anyone have any ideas???<!—-><!—->
<!—-><!—->
Ed Wuermser<!—-><!—->
[email protected]<!—-><!—->
972/234/2290 <!—-><!—->
Replies
I see that you are in texas.
In some parts of Texas I they use soaker hose or other ways to irrigate the foundation so that the dirt keeps a constant moisture level.
For "ordinary" cracks such as in a corner or ceiling line I use painter caulk when I paint them.
serious cracks get paper tape and mud. but I am dealing with settling cracks and they only move slightly over the year.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Resmreu,
I am sorry, I don't have a good solution besides telling you to get a new house.
1/8" cracks are large and denote a very serious problem with your foundation that could turn dangerous as connections weaken due to the extensive movement over time. As you have already found out, retrofitting a repair to a foundation is very expensive. Even if you could retrofit piers on the interior, I doubt they would completely remedy the situation. The truth is, what you call "black gumbo" should have probably never been built on or at least should have been carefully designed and engineered.
I did a house many years back that was built on a piece of property deemed "unbuildable" really just a marsh but the last property on a very desirable lake. The owner architect decided to build off the ground on piers. That was 15 years ago and the house is as level and square as ever.
Again, sorry to say I would just start over. Lumber is cheap, a lot can be salvaged and reused, you can still use the piers you had installed along with the new ones, and you will have a safer, better, brand newish house in the end.
I had a similar problem where an addition met an existing house. The foundations moved independently. We covered the cracks with trim fastened on one side only.
No repair will last until you solve what is causing the movement. All soil expands and contracts, some kinds more than others. But building material, concrete included, has built in tolerances. Sounds to me like you have a grade issue. Does the soil slope towards the slab?
my slab is 4ft above my neighbor. the black gumbo expands when wet & contracts when dry. If I don't water the foundation, there will be a 1/2" space between the foundation & soil.
by putting in the piers i just compounded the problem. the perimeter stays put while the center moves. Everyone has a problem with slabs in this area.
I think i'll just fill the crack w/a caulk that stays flexible & leave it at that. Where there is wall paper is a different story.
thanks for the reply,
Ed
Can you figure a way to water the interior too?
good idea.
Thanks,
Ed
waterproof the walls.Then make it into a pool.Seriously. I would think that if the exterior ground around the house was kept at constant moisture after a while the ground under the slab in the midle would reach a steady state moisture level and thus stop changing..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill, I don't know. I'm in an area where foundations differ from one lot to the next. All I can do is let the engineer spec it and follow the specs to the letter, then let him inspect it and sign off on it.
Cover it with t&g.