I really like those techniques for making flat butt joints by bending down the edge of the drywall. But what is a nice way of making a flat joint when the repair has to cross a stud or two?
I have to repair a major piece of damage to my walls that goes across a stud (about 3 feet by 4 feet, right smack in the middle of the wall). And no, it was not a fight(!). I hve better quality clientele than that.
Got any good ideas on how best to get a smooth joint?
Replies
What do you want? Egg in your beer?
And Reason alone can never explain
how the Heart behaves.
Actually, no.I have been lurking and posting for since WebX, and I was hoping that there might be a couple of tricks that would ease this nuisance.I can always use the typical trick of simply blending in the joint using a 12-inch tool, but it still will be proud.(Oh, btw--has ANYBODY really had egg in their beer? I have never seen it in real life.)
breakfast of champions dude..geeze.
There is no magic in a butt joint..just do it. Use a wider swath when ya feather it out.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
I am in no way endorsing this, I read it on another forum - guy claimed that if you back up all edges, and use setting compound, you don't need tape.
I saw a guy drop an egg in about three fingers of bourbon - cooked the durn thing.And Reason alone can never explain
how the Heart behaves.
I certainly can't help you any more than these other guys have with the drywall repair, but if you want to see someone drink a beer with an egg in it, rent "The Verdict". Great movie.
"I certainly can't help you any more than these other guys have with the drywall repair, but if you want to see someone drink a beer with an egg in it, rent "The Verdict"."---UGH!!---I like John Gresham, but ohmygod, the thought of putting a perfectly good egg into perfectly good beer! I just might avoid it for just that reason.
Edited 3/31/2005 5:28 pm ET by JohnD
http://www.butttaper.com/home.htm
This is why they invented pictures. And "wall hangings", and the like.
For a 3x4 area,I will plaster (Joint compound) the entire patch.
Then you don't have 4 bad joints, Just one big patch that You can't see.
Good luck
Ditto that... compound the whole patch and feather the edges.
Rich.
My name is Dino, Not Ditto.
LMAO!
OAML
Ace, Before i say something else,
What is LMAO?
If you tell me, then I know what OAML is too.
Edited 3/28/2005 8:33 pm ET by YCFriend
Laughing My A__ Off.
Thanks ACI.
LMAO = Laughing My A$$ Off
<stirring the pot a little>
Hey Dino... would this be an appropriate use for D-Mix ?!?!
****
BTW... I am gonna attempt the D-Mix test with some refinishing of some walls in my own house. One problem... I don't drink coffee! How am I supposed to get the mix right if I don't drink coffee? LOL
So what I'm thinkin... how about 1/2 bucket joint compound, one gallon primer, 16oz of plaster of paris... and maybe a little dish soap to make the sanding go smoother?
Don't start me up with the D-Mix.
There is NO SANDING with the D-Mix.
AND IT WILL TELL YOU WHAT NOT TO DO.
Then you know what to do. And when you learn the system you can finish a small house in one day. PERFECT.
For this patch. 3x4 area. I go heavy on the plaster of paris and light on the primer. Done in 15 minutes and paint in 45 minutes.
How heavy? 3-1-1 JC-POP-PVA. Works for me.
For someone with no taping skills. I go the safe way. 5-1-1 (for 3x4 area)
Is all up to the speed that you can work the materials.
ROAR !!!
RAOR All the way Rich.
Ok John , 3x4 in the middle of a stud in the middle of a wall. Its probably a show wall too.
Youre not that far away from making it 4x4 and hitting the center of two more studs. Either saw it out to hit centers or too the sides of them and fill with 1x2s. Thats a pretty big patch not to have some good backing.
Tape it off and fill 12 inches all the way around the inside of the square with a 12 inch knife keeping it off the tape. Run 12 inches around the out side not touching the tape. Both the inside and out side are fill coats and should be built up an 1/8 th of an inch. If youre in a hurry used hot mud. Durabond 30,60 or 90 is fine. Put a fan on it if you have one . Smoke a cigar and drink a couple of beers . Bud Light seems to work best.
If you use hot mud , it doesnt have to be completely set up. Using your 12 inch knife check across the middle of the tape . Need to fill some more? Do it again till you have 24 inches flat over the tape. When you have that taper it off with a 12. Thats going to fill up your sqaure and run it 24 inches around the out side . Use one more skim coat to slick it off with pluss three or joint compound , what ever you have , but dont do the final finishing with durabond as it will bleed through.
You should have a pro patch when youre done and invisable.
Remember , you dont need any mud over the tape. You are doing all that to hide it . All you will need is a tight skim coat over it .
Here's the way I make all repairs flat even over studs and it works..been doing for years now. ACI has got it!
- Rip a 1/2" of OSB or plywood into 4 inches by 48 inches. Now cut the OSB or plywood and place it around the 3x4 rectangle of drywall and up to the stud that you have leaving 2 inches exposed. Screw the backer board in an "S" pattern every 4 to 5 inches on to the old drywall.
- Get a slightly less than a 3x4 drywall..by about an 1/8 of an inch and screw it onto the exposed backer board in the same "S" pattern. Put one screw on the stud for the old drywall and one screw for the new drywall.
- Spray it with water real good.
- Get the "ButtTaper" tool and run it around the 3x4 patch. It makes a 3/4" beveled edge on the 3x4 patch perimeter.
- Get some setting compound and imbed it into the 3/4" beveled edge for the first two coats and you can also use it for the last coat. To speed up the drying and setting between coats use a hairdryer or heat gun if juice is available.
- All you are doing is filling in the 3/4" beveled edge and it comes out flat because the backer board aligns the old drywall with the new drywall perfectly.
- The entire process should take about a half hour to 45 minutes depending on how fast the compound dries. To rip the backer board and screw iut to the old wall and to screw the new drywall should take 20 minutes..thereafter the finishing process with the ButtTaper should be total labor time of 2 minutes. Of course, the added time is for the setting and drying of the hot mud...use Easy-Sand 5 to speed it up.
- And if your wondering where is the tape..there is none.