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drywall screw pops

jstew | Posted in General Discussion on March 9, 2006 04:14am

  Noticed a while back, in my master bedrooms private toilet room, that every drywall screw in the middle of the board had popped.  After looking around at the all of the drywall in the house probably 70% of these screws had popped. 

  I built the house about a year ago (in WV) the drywall was done in January.   Ive used the drywallers many times and they are one of the best in my area and never had this problem.  I havent called them yet either.

The pops occur whether its an outside, enterior, load bearing or partition wall.  The heat was on while they were finishing and the temperature stayed consistant.  The board was screwed and glued. Any suggestions as to why and whether I should call the rockers back.

 

 

Reply

Replies

  1. DanH | Mar 09, 2006 04:19am | #1

    How long were the screws they used?

    If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

    happy?

    1. jstew | Mar 09, 2006 04:26am | #2

      1 5/8"

      1. DanH | Mar 09, 2006 04:45am | #3

        That's probably OK, then. Using longer screws is a classical cause of pops.It could be that the glue used is part of the problem. If it was put on pretty thick and shrank on drying that would cause pops.

        If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

        happy?

  2. bruce22 | Mar 09, 2006 05:17am | #4

    whether you use screws or nails, it is not the fastener that "pops".  Most framing lumber is so full of moisture that it is going to shrink after installation. During the first year, when the wood has a chance to dry out, a small space is created between the framing and the rock. Any vibration or pressure on the surface will cause what appears to be a popping screw or nail. OK guys , let's hear it. I've heard so much nonsense about screws vs. nails, it's all moot. If the framing lumber isn't dry, and it usually isn't, you're going to have some degree of popping. Let the frame sit for a year before you rock and you'll have very little nail or screw pops. ha ha ha .

    1. Piffin | Mar 09, 2006 05:49am | #7

      I'm no expert on this subject, but Ihave only had one or two pops per house, so I must be doing something right.I've also heard it is from wet studs drying. We work slow enough that the studs are always dry before getting covered over. In this case, with glue, the sheet would have stayed with the stud as it shrank back, leaving the screws proud. 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

    2. stinger | Mar 10, 2006 04:25am | #16

      You are absolutely right.

      Let's retitle it "framing shrinkage causing fastener pushthru" and leave screws and nails out of the headline.

      It ain't the fastener.  As they say in politics, "It's the lumber, stupid!"

      1. jstew | Mar 10, 2006 04:28am | #17

        I think you guys are right.  I am thinking of going along and putting one screw over and one screw under each pop and backing out the old fastener.  What do you think.

        1. stinger | Mar 10, 2006 04:36am | #19

          Unless you have to do it right now, I would wait for one more heating season.

          No sense in twice gettin' out the mud, sandpaper, primer, and paint.

        2. blue_eyed_devil | Mar 10, 2006 04:41am | #20

          , there is no reason to add more screws. Just remove the ones in the board and give the board a test push. If it is bouncy, then re fasten it.

          We don't put any fasteners in the field here im Mi on walls . All the board in my house is tight because it's glued. Fasteners in the field are overrated unless the entire house is visqueened like they do in BiteMe's state.

          I think it's crazy to wrap a house in visqueen, but that's the code there.

          blue 

          1. wrudiger | Mar 10, 2006 05:13am | #21

            'round here (Northern CA) they like their screws, and so does the BI.  Must be a couple of pounds of screws per sheet, and the BI wanted to see it before the mud went on.  Different strokes...

          2. User avater
            loucarabasi | Mar 14, 2006 12:50pm | #36

            I guess with the strict building codes in CA The BI wanted to see the screws before the mud went on. Thats unheard of on the east coast. We would go to war if the BI said that!!!

            -Lou

        3. User avater
          xxPaulCPxx | Mar 11, 2006 12:14am | #24

          I don't think your drywall paper face would be damaged, you could just retighten them with a dimpler on a drill/impact.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

          Also a CRX fanatic!

  3. USAnigel | Mar 09, 2006 05:27am | #5

    This year in NJ the winter has been extreamly dry and I have noticed lots of pops and cracks due to this. Just tighten the screws a little (maybe add some) and patch.

  4. Danno | Mar 09, 2006 05:33am | #6

    I think DanH is right--it's the glue. Whenever I glue something together and use clamps, when I go to remove the clamps they are often already loose because the glue shrinks as it cures. I'll bet that's what happened with your drywall. When the guy I work with does drywall, he glues the middle and screws the edges; that way we don't have screws to mud over in the field. IIRC though we also glue the edges too, but maybe because the tape goes over it (and hides them?) or because the edges share a stud (don't know why that would help, but...) it may not be causing screw pops.

    1. jstew | Mar 09, 2006 06:57am | #8

      MY GUY USES ONLY ONE SCREW IN THE FIELD ON EVERY OTHER STUD.  LIKE I SAID THIS IS THE FIRST REAL PROBLEM IVE HAD WITH THIS.  HOUSE WAS FRAMED FOR A GOOD THREE MONTHS BEFORE THE BOARD WAS HUNG.  IT IS MY OWN HOUSE SO IT TOOK SECONDS TO OTHER PROJECTS.  

      1. Piffin | Mar 10, 2006 01:30am | #9

        That makes it sound more like a hack job 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. paperhanger | Mar 10, 2006 03:17am | #10

          A screw every other stud! No wonder the screws are popping. Do plenty of work in the Boston area and never run into a problem like that. My own house , which I was the GC on, built in 2000, and have yet to have a pop yet. No glue also. How is the framing on your house? Did they nail every other stud too! Sound like shoddy workmanship to me.

          1. jstew | Mar 10, 2006 04:17am | #13

            no, I framed it myself and nailed every fifth stud.  I know of no drwallers in my area or any other who do this different.  The board is nailed or screwed all along the edges and as few screws as possible put in the center of the panels. All studs are glued.  I have seen hundreds of houses around here, and they are all done that way.  I never said the finish was bad it looks great even with semi-gloss paint.

          2. Piffin | Mar 10, 2006 09:38pm | #23

            glue holds better than screws or nails, no doubnt, but you still need to pull it too for th eglue to set. Every other stud is not enough, nor is edges only. That just lets the glue amke a buklge in center of sheet and adds to the dimension you have to work with trimming, hanging doors, extension jambs etc.but it still sounds like the main reason for your particular problem is shrinking studs from excess moisture when they were covered. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          3. andybuildz | Mar 11, 2006 04:36pm | #31

            good golly miss molly...I never even heard of gluing rock...bidch slapping myself. I see they sell PL for rock but thought it was for veneering one rock over another or sumpin'. I've never seen any of the drywall guys here in NY do it that way...ever! Weird huh? Seems common practice in other parts of the country but so rare around these here parts that I never even heard of it.
            Question though...is it enough to just have a thin layer of paper holding the rock to the studs? I spose' so huh?
            Next thing youre gonna tell me is they have rolls of tape you just iron on...hmmmmmIf Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!

            TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]

          4. User avater
            Ted W. | Mar 11, 2006 09:16pm | #32

            Well, there is self adhering fiberglass mesh tape. No iron needed! :o)-----------------------------------------------------------

            FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1

          5. mikerooney | Mar 12, 2006 05:46pm | #33

            Andy, I've demo'd a lot of wallboard, and I've found that if it's glued on, you may as well take a sawzall and cut through the studs and take it out in managable sections.''Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.'' Plato

             

          6. andybuildz | Mar 12, 2006 08:19pm | #34

            Well then Mike...I can't wait to try it on my next job...actually I can wait but you know what I mean...lol. Drywall isn't my project of choice.If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!

            TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]

          7. User avater
            loucarabasi | Mar 14, 2006 12:57pm | #37

            hey mike, they have these things called hammers now! they drive nails in. Just kidden big guy.

          8. Piffin | Mar 10, 2006 09:32pm | #22

            You really didn't mean to adress those comments to me.When you make a reply here on prospero sites, there is a drop down >To: ___ box you can use to reply to the person you want to adress in the future 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          9. paperhanger | Mar 11, 2006 03:46am | #26

            no, it was to jstew.

      2. mikerooney | Mar 10, 2006 03:57am | #12

        Ceilings too, or just the walls?

        5/8" rock, or 1/2" - I use 1 1/4" screws on 1/2".

        I use one in the field on ceilings, and none in the field on walls. Could be a bad case of glue, but that's a slim chance.

        I'd pick a short wall and do some exploratory surgery. Sometimes, if the hangers think you're screwin' 'em over, that glue goes home with 'em.''Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.'' Plato

         

        1. jstew | Mar 10, 2006 04:21am | #15

          Ceilings are finished with knockdown texture and show no signs of pops.  Its just the walls.  I paid top dollar so I dont think they thought they were getting screwed.  Plus I live on sige.

        2. cowtown | Mar 11, 2006 05:24am | #28

          I think 1 1/4 is standard for 1/2" stuff. It certainly is strong enufThe likely reason that it ain't popping on the ceiling is that the drywall is likely dropping away from the joists as they shrink. From what I've read, the primary cause of pops is too long a screw, but that stud does provide a thermal bridge, and the further in the screw penetrates, the more efficiently it functions as a "cold pipe", bring low temp onto the wall surface, which, when coupled with a moist house, can cause focal condensation. Enuf cycles of damp/dry, and it's likely that the fill plaster is gonna lose at least some of it's adhesive properties, and perhaps start to crumble. Last real cold corner I saw, an outside corner on a slab in a closet actually had frost forming in the corner, but immediately above it, you could see little frost build-ups on the screw heads. I've read and used the screw above/screw below as the fix, and as yer gonna be re-filling one hole anyway, another two won't cause much extra work at all. So no harm done to follow that advice. Just my thoughts
          Eric

          1. User avater
            Ted W. | Mar 11, 2006 09:00am | #29

            I have always used glue and screws, 4 on walls and 5 on ceilings. I use 1-1/4" screws for 1/2" drywall and 1-5/8 for 5/8". I try to use the driest studs I can, but sometimes I'm stuck with moist ones. The only time I've had screw pops was when a helper was pushing too hard on the screw gun, thus crushing the drywall. -----------------------------------------------------------

            FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1

  5. JHOLE | Mar 10, 2006 03:38am | #11

    What kind of heat?

    If it was your actual furnace, I have one thought.

    If it was temp heat, I have another thoought.

    Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City

    1. jstew | Mar 10, 2006 04:18am | #14

      It was my actual furnace.

      1. JHOLE | Mar 10, 2006 04:34am | #18

        Then I think it was the glue and sparce fastening.

        Nothing to do now but fix'em.

        Around here I don't think I would try for that fastening schedule.

        I don't live there, but I wouldn't go for it there either.

        What does the manufacturer suggest - as opposed to common practice in your area?

        When in doubt I always go with the specs instead of what my sub says he likes to do.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City

  6. mike4244 | Mar 11, 2006 03:02am | #25

    The screws are not moving,the drywall has a space between it and the studs.This is because there are not enough screws in the field. The glue did nothing if the sheet was not tight to the studs when installed. The framing lumber shrinkage only affected the field and not the seams if I understand you correctly.

    When drywall is screwed correctly,glued or not, shrinking studs have no affect ,The sheetrock and the screws move with the studs. Glue was not needed . If the rock was nailed then use glue.

    Have the rockers screw the field and have them spackle the screw heads.8" centers on the field.You may have to repaint the house, see if you can get the same paint originally used and the same nap on the roller. You may get lucky and only have to touch up the screw holes.

    mike

    1. jstew | Mar 11, 2006 04:08am | #27

      Yeah, I still have paint left and I am hoping for the lucky part. My house is a story and a half. I went upstairs to check out the walls there more closely and havent found the first pop. I find this odd. The downstairs is really starting to bother me though. I will probably be fixing it soon and I like your idea. I am working on my tile shower now so as soon as that is finished it will be time for screwin', muddin' and paintin'.

      1. mikerooney | Mar 11, 2006 03:05pm | #30

        This is from Grabber -

        WOOD & METAL STUDS: Apply a continuous 1/4" to 3/8" bead of adhesive to all framing members starting 3-4 inches from the top and ending 3-4 inches from the bottom of where each panels is positioned on the stud. Apply two 1/4" parallel beads of adhesive on framing members where joints abut.. Position gypsum board and press firmly in place. Use flat panels only. Do not use warped panels unless they have been pre-bowed. Follow the fastening SCHEDULE for Adhesive Nail-on Attachment in the Gypsum Association Manual (GA-201) or Table No. 47-G of the Uniform Building Code. Perimeter fasten 16" O.C. for walls and ceilings, and 24" O.C. in the field of ceiling applications. Field fasteners are not required for wall construction unless walls show evidence of warping. For shear wall construction, field fasteners are required per I.C.B.O. Evaluation Service, Inc. E.R. 2769.

         

        http://www.grabberman.com/collateral/DrywallAdhesive_TD.html

         

        I used to live in Hardy County. ''Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.'' Plato

         

        1. jstew | Mar 14, 2006 05:22am | #35

          My friend has a friend who has a big turkey farm in hardy county.  He loves it there.  Thanks for the post .  I thought I was crazy about the glue and no screws.

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