We just had our basement hung (~25′ x 35′). Getting bids for the taping and I can’t figure which tape to ask for. Ceiling has 24″ OC and walls are newer and 16 OC. They used 5/8 for the top and 1/2 for the walls.
The hardluck is that the code required R21 for the short concrete stem walls which meant me building them out to 2×6 depth. SO, there are a lot of ‘corners.’
Any replies are appreciated
Replies
Um,... I would ask for the deep throat tapes.
hummmmm, what's that??
I'm not a professional taper, but I have taped a lot of walls and ceilings on my jobs.
I like using fiberglass mesh tape on the factory tapered edges, with either setting compound or the green lid mud for the first coat, then the lightweight topping compound
For any butt joints, I like paper tape. I find it easier to work with for butts. You don't get that weave pattern showing when you sand a bit too much. I usually use the green lid mud over setting compound for this, largely because I'm more comfortable with its working time.
But you won't go wrong if you get paper tape on everything.
thanks.one bid the guy talked tape and another mess w/ hot mud.
This is definitely a case where technique trumps product. The best joint tape applied poorly will yield bad results while economy tape in the hands of an expert will give you a great result.
So, choose your taper more carefully than your tape.
Having said that, I'm a big fan of Straight-Flex, but it's an unecessary expense for most jobs.
Hot mud is good stuff and if your contractor uses it, I would consider that a plus.
thanks. not only, imho, is drywall an 'art' but picking a taper too...i guess my 'downfall' was not getting references and calling them.
I would start by asking the contractors which type of tape they prefer and let them use that.
For a basement of your size (25'x35') I would think any professional drywall contractor would use automated taping tools- which means all paper tape (AFAIK).
On small jobs, I like to use mesh tape on the factory seams and butt seams. Paper tape on all inside corners- outside corners get corner bead.
I use the mesh to save some time and reduce the chance of air pockets, but I tape, fill and finish by hand.
Mesh tape is a disaster when used in corners.
You are hiring professionals. If you go to the level of detail to tell them what type of tape to use it will appear to them that you will be an anal, difficult customer and some of the better contractors will avoid you or bump up the bid to cover anticipated nickel and diming.
that's the rub now isn't it, hiring professionals.the rest of the story:got a guy licensed and bonded to hand the drywall. he said he give us a 'killer deal' on the taping and texture.well, he said 4 days and he work the weekend (we're under the gun to get the permits signed off). he got another job that would start two days after the weekend and i asked if it was going to be a problem, he then said the 4 days was 4 trips and that he had no plan on working the weekend unless i paid him overtime. honestly, there was no way to know when he was going to finish.that brings me back to the mess vs. paper. he 'messed' all the butts and factory edges. a couple guys that have come through on bids have commented on it. that why i was asking the fb community their opinion.
New drywall, paper tape. That's what I would do. With mesh on seams and butts you open yourself up to the possibility of hairline cracks. Why take the risk?
If you go with mesh to speed the process, make sure setting type compound is used. Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
"that brings me back to the mess vs. paper. he 'messed' all the butts and factory edges. "Are you saying that the hanger already started taping using mesh? It's never a good idea to switch horses in midstream but if you gotta, you gotta. Keep in mind though, You get anybody else to finish a job already started and who is going to serve your warrantee?I only used mesh for small patches. It is more for beginners and amateurs who look for the easy way. Every hairline crack I have ever seen in a SR job was where mesh tape had been used.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I used to use mesh a lot. I've never had a problem with mesh tape on flat joints. But inside corners, I have, so now I try to stick to paper tape for those.View Image bakersfieldremodel.com
I never even thought it was possible to turn out a crisp inside corner with mesh
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I would focus on the finished look you want, time guarantees, and clean up.
Most important, get references from each bidder - past jobs - and call them.
It's MESH, not MESS. Well, maybe it is a mess. Same as masonary, where future Free Masons must apparently do their studies.
Ah ha!
Thanks for the clue what he was talking about. now I go back to read it all again to see what he was saying.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
The whole idea of taping drywall is to have the surface come out as flat as possible. You don't want a build up of joint compound over joints that will cause a bump. Mesh tape is thick compared to paper. Since you don't need a bedding coat of joint compound with mesh, it just sticks directly to the drywall, it saves a step. It's appropriate for tapered joints but not for corners and butt joints. Many tapers use a combination of mesh and paper.
Because the mesh has a texture, it will leave a rough surface unless the first coat of compound completely covers it. A rough surface makes applying second coats of compound a big pain. We stopped using perforated paper tape years ago due to this. This is also why mesh is a poor choice for non tapered joints and corners. It's not a question of which tape to use, it's a matter of where the choices get used.
Good tapers don't gomb on compound and then try to sand it flat, they keep things flat and only use sanding to feather out the edges. It's a lot easier, less mess and a better looking job if the work is done with the knives and not sandpaper. Good tapers don't make extra work for themselves.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
We stopped using perforated paper tape years ago due to this. This is also why mesh is a poor choice for non tapered joints and corners.
Now I'm getting confused. What is "perforated tape". The paper tape that I use has real fine pin holes in it. Or at least it did last time I looked. Is this what you are refering to?
I am a big fan of paper tape and not a big fan of setting compounds (too much hassle most of the time). So I almost never use mesh.
There are two types of paper tape. One has pin holes, the other doesn't. All the pro tapers in my area use the plain paper. Some use a banjo, it holds compound and a roll of paper tape. As you pull out the tape, compound is applied to the backside of the paper. Others prefer to use a knife and lay down a thin bedding coat on the drywall, then apply dry paper tape. Most of us use dry paper tape on the inside corners and wall/ceiling joints. This tape is pre-creased for a neat fold.If a perforated tape is used, in will have dots of dry compound like the penny candy dots that come on a strip of paper. The same thing happens with mesh tape. You don't have a smooth surface the knife skips over these bumps leaving ridges like planer marks on a board. Some get dislodged and you get goobers in the compound. Even when you get both a bedding coat and a first top coat on one application, the surface can still be full of dots after it drys. It's much easier to get on flat coats, that need little sanding, if the surface is clean and smooth. That's why we don't use it. I don't know anyone using a corner trowel even though I have one. We lay a bed coat, fold and place the tape, stroke the paper flat with a 6" knife, removing the excess compound under the tape, then we go right back over and lay the first coat on one side of the corner. The next day we do the opposite side of the corner. The better tapers switch to a larger knife on the third coat to feather out the compound 12" - 14" so there isn't a small gap behind the baseboard, chairail, crown, at the corners. If you only use a 6" knife, there will be a slight "hollow" when you install these moldings. Not many do this step. Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I use a corner trowel for the second & third coats in corners. I've gotten used to it, and find it faster over doing one side at a time.
I use a corner trowel for all my inside corners, first coat and second coat, then just light touchup with a flat blade on the finish coat. Works great. Fast and easy.View Image bakersfieldremodel.com
I've tried it a few times but I'm not comfortable with it. Seems I tip it up too much and cut the tape and I'll be darned if I know how to load it. Have to grab the 6" to clean up the overflow and fix goofs. Do you use a hawk? I've been using a pan. I used to use a 6" and trowels but I switched to wood handled wide knives some time ago. I think they are easier on my old fingers and I like the stiffer edge.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I admit I tape a bit different than most. I do most of my taping with a 11" curved trowel and a 6" knife. I use the trowel for the flats, and as a smaller hawk. I use the knife to bed the tape, and to feather edges. The corner knife is handy for me, because I can finish both sides quickly. It does take some practise, tho. When I'm doing a lot of corners, and re-develop the feel for it, I can tape a corner, and finish it with the second coat, leaving only a light sanding necessary.
I would call them bigger than "pin holes". The perforated tape he's referring to, I believe, is a rare find these days. The holes are a little smaller than 1/8" and are spaced not much more than that apart. It used to be standard 40 years ago but is not used much anymore.
"Beat it to fit / Paint it to match"
Your advise is always better than your tag line ... unless it means that you're here to help those of us who don't know any other way!
I've got a big hammer and you ought to see me paint, Righty!Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I'm with Piffin on this one. Never seen a hairline crack in paper tape, seen plenty in mesh. On the other hand, I've also never seen a bubble in mesh. Maybe the hot mud with the mesh helps prevent cracks.
I'm a slow but decent taper. I fill all joints with hot mud before taping, set tape with green compound and let dry overnight before trying to put any topcoat on. Corners get one side of green mud at a time with a 6" knife, second coat with an 8 or 10" knife. I can get very close to done on one coat in the corners, but never quite good enough to resist that second pass.
Used to use the midweight (purple top) mud for second coats, but have reverted to green for everything, as it feathers better and is more resistant to dings and scratches.
Steve