I thought I was doing pretty well designing this 12 x 24 shop–until I got the 24 foot wall up and realized I’d overlooked a kind of significant detail!
The framed wall(south) in the pic is 8′ tall. Plan was to run, starting from the right side (east), 2 x 10 rafters to the barn wall (north), at a 4 in 12 pitch, until I run out of room due to the pitch change. (That makes the north wall of the shop 12′ tall, and that point is a couple inches above the bottom of the metal siding that’s showing.) Since I don’t have 12′ in height all the way across the barn wall, I’d planned a hip roof, following the lower pitched barn roof. Once I saw the height of the framed wall, I realized there’s no room for an 8′ wall, and rafters, at the low end of that barn wall. It’s about 7′ 11″ from the concrete to the bottom of the roof, at the lowest point. The barn roof gable overhang is about 12″.
At this point what I’m considering doing is making that west wall about 7′, or so. Then put a 2x 10, parallel to that wall but a couple feet to the right, to run the hip rafters to. There would then be a different pitched roof, about 2′ wide between the two. (Hope I’ve explained that adequately.)
So, does this idea make sense, or is there a better way to do it?
Thanks for your help.
Thon
Replies
If it were my shop, I would take the height at the north-west corner and the north-east corner and make all walls to that height (assuming they are close in height) . then frame the roof as you were planning. You might loose a little height at the south end, but It will probably look better overall from the outside. The other thing I've seen done is to just frame a shed all the way across and forget the hips. This looks weird, but is much easier to frame.
PS: Don't worry too much about level; It just has to look good. I recently framed a hipped corner addition (12x40) to my barn. It was 2" off level and you can't even tell.
Roger <><
The original smaller building here did have a shed roof--but I wanted to get away from a really low pitched roof, and taller ceilings in an auto shop are frequently useful. BTW, the north-east corner is considerably different-- ~14'?Hmmm, in thinking some more about this: My idea of a 2x10 to carry the hip jacks is probably not nearly beefy enough? (The longest jack would be no more than about 6'--plus 2' on the other side of the 2x).Thanks again.
Thon(Not terribly concerned with how 'correct' this building looks. Edge of town in the middle of the prairie.) <G>
Hello again,
In that case, you might consider just haing the new roof pitch the way you want it [extent the "ridge" nailed to the existing north wall to the left a bit]. At the North West intersection with existing roof it will probably be a bit higher. Let it bump up, then flash the intersection of the new roof to the old roof.
For a 14' hipped extension with a 4 pitch roof, I would up with 18' hip rafters (plus about 1' oerhang). I used doubled up 2x6's. That seemed beefy enough for me.
Roger <><
Take down what you have built. It is an emotional decision, but will save you time and money. An hour's work should do it.
Then build your three walls the same height as the west wall. Extend your current roof out so that your present eight foot wall is your gable wall. You can still have your ceiling height at nine or ten feet or whatever. The only complexity will be having that big window. I would like to see your double top plate continuous on the south wall; however, using a combination of ceiling joists, collar ties, and a site-specific header framing combination, you could still get the east-west strength you need to prevent the walls from spreading due to the weight of the roof. Where are you at in KS? I am in Leavenworth County.
I'd be tempted to just bring a wall out perpendicular to the barn at the 8'-0" plate height, and then put in a roof to match the low side of the bar across that 'gable." It'd make a sort of entry vestibule, or a storage nook of some kind or sort.
The sevenish-tall space is fine for storage or for a bit of a protected entry. You could split the difference in depth, and have a closet or other storage space paralleling the barn, too--your call.
Now, you may still need a short bit of hip to transition around, but at least it will not be quite as bad as it could be.
That's kind of what I was trying to describe, but--can I get away without actually building a west wall at the 8' height. In other words what kind of beam/supports would I need, to span that 12', to take the place of a wall, at that point? Very large?? :-)
Thanks.
Thon
Just had another idea. You could go ahead and build at eight foot wall height as if the barn were not there. Just make the roof on the addition be higher than the roof on the existing structure. They can still share a common wall.
can I get away without actually building a west wall at the 8' height
Might could. Build it like a garage door wall of mostly header. That's probably what prompted my thought about a closet, that wall would "split" the 12' span making for easier headers.
As is, it would likely look like a header with a shed roof gable wall across the top of it, it what I'm thinking.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Hey, matching garage doors, front and back! ;-)2 west walls. Sounds like a plan. Appreciate all the help.Thon