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Getting ready to build my second house and my wife has unfortunately decided that she MUST HAVE a house with a couple dormers, cathedral ceilings, 752 different gable directions, etc.
Is it possible to build a house with dormers and still be able to use trusses? Is there some way to use trusses on both sides of the dormer, double up the trusses on both sides, and put a header between them to hand frame the dormer?
I realize this is probably a stupid question. If you are wondering why a PE doesn’t know this answer, let me explain: I am a mechanical engineer and my PE is for mechanical applications – I know a lot more about machine design than I do about residential house framing.
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yup, adam the pe.....its SOP.. the entire structure of the roof CAN be trusses, even the most complicated parts...
usually we mix and match.. get the trusses carrying anything to do with structure,, and then do in-fill framing for the rest..
cut up roofs do add a lot to the cost of the roof system.. but they also add interest,, and , if you afford it , are worth it...the trade off is you trade time and money for interest and appeal..
since we really don't NEED anything more than a double -wide... we are all making these compromises in our houses anyways..
*They just put up a truss roof down the road from me...and the house has dormers....the only problem is that they are FAKE. Hoisted them up there with the crane, and nailed 'em in....I thought I was going to throw up.There should be no reason you can't put real dormers in though.
*Adam,Check with your truss mfr regarding your particular design. I am currently building a 1 1/2 story house with 22' cathedral ceilings and three dormers. I wanted to use trusses to do this, but had two separate truss mfr's tell me that it would be cost prohibitive to use them in this part of the house. Plus I would lose about 4' in ceiling height as they couldn't keep the cathederal as designed by the architect. I would have ended up with a 18' flat vaulted ceiling.I am using attic trusses over the garage and over a couple other areas of the house.
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Another dumb framing question:
I see pictures in books of builders adding blocks of wood between the trusses/rafters at the top of the exterior wall (are these called "frieze blocks"?) - other than to aid in maintaining proper spacing, what is the purpose of these blocks? Wouldn't this prevent airflow from the soffit vents and cause ice dam problems? Help me understand this.
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sounds like blocking to nail their cornice / soffit assembly to..
adam.. yur questions aint dmb, but they do point out htat yur gona need professional help in designing your new house..
do a search of the archives for design, architects, designers, etc...
*Yes they are called frieze blocks among other things, in this area every 3rd block will have a screened vent in it to meet code. They also provide you with a solid surface to butt your siding up against if you install them right. I think more important than price, a truss companys willingness and ability to answer these kind of questions for you in terms you can understand should guide your selection and getting them involved while you're still in the design process might be a good idea.JonC
*Adam - The rule of thumb for dormers is a double truss can be used around an opening up to 6' wide. A triple truss can be used for an opening up to 10' wide. Anything over that goes on a case-by-case basis. Please note that this only applies to trusses designed for 2' centers. And local codes may restrict this. The multi-ply trusses need to be nailed together, like a girder truss. The framing between them should be designed so it distributes the load evenly - It shouldn't put concentrated loads at various points on the trusses. Several times in the past, I've run across the myth that it's O.K. to cut out part of a truss and simply header it off to the adjacent trusses. If anyone tries to tell you this, grab a 2X4 and smack 'em upside the head. Failure to follow these instructions may cause dizziness, nausea, and vomiting. (Just checking to see if you were paying attention)
*Adam, in what part of the country are you building?where I live, those blocks you see could be to keep the insulation from spilling into the soffits. I applaud your efforts to design and build your own house, but judging by your questions,I agree with some others, you need help man! Take your concept to a qualified person to get working drawings. I'm afraid you might make a serious error in your house. Are you living in an area where your house will need a building inspection? (This often only means it won't fall down this week) Adam, you need some supervision.
*Adam, in what part of the country are you building?where I live, those blocks you see could be to keep the insulation from spilling into the soffits. I applaud your efforts to design and build your own house, but judging by your questions,I agree with some others, you need help man! Take your consept to a qualified person to get working drawings. I'm afraid you might make a serious error in your house. Are you living in an area where your house will need a building inspection? (This often only means it won't fall down this week) Adam, you need some supervision.
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I am building in the central part of lower Michigan.
I didn't use any of these blocks on the first house I built because it seems to go against the whole idea of having soffit vents. The building inspector didn't say a word about it - he probably didn't even look that closely.
Besides one large dormer on the front of the house, there really isn't anything about this house that is that much more complicated than the first one. Well, that and the twelve sided master bedroom suite that is suspended from the roof by cables (just kidding).
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Adam, those blocks are probably used in open cornice systems. Here in Michigan we all use a closed cornice. The blocks do indeed block the airflow and would violate code in most situations.
I once had a building inspector require these blocks on conventional framed roofs. He claimed that they were needed to prevent the roof from rolling. He called it a shear problem or something or other. Basically though we was a book wacko, picking out things that he didn't understand and demanding enforcement, no matter how bizarre. Once, he cited me for 8 items. I was shocked. I couldn't understand any of the items. I requested a meeting with the inspector to get an understanding, so that I could do the repairs. When I saw him enter the sub, I called out to him that I'd meet him over at the house. He got there first and was putting the green tag on the window and asked me what I wanted to meet him about. I was shocked again, because I hadn't done any of the repairs that were required!
So much for "heel" blocks!
I'm near Flint. Where are you putting up your crib?
out!
blue
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My new house will be going up in the Grand Rapids area.
Is the city of Flint still celebrating the NCAA title that the "Flintstones" brought home? I'm an MSU grad, so I followed every minute.
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Actually Flint has not had it's parade yet. It's been a source of political debate. Anything to flame the mayor.
I was quite impressed with the spartans. My brother is a msu grad (engineering). The flintstones did indeed come through. I'm impressed with Coach Izzo too.
Too bad I don't live closer or you weren't building near me. I'd have buzzed over there...free. I just like hanging around housebuilders!
Incidently, I'm taking delivery of 60 spruce trees right now from a treefarm in grand rapids (actually they planted 37 for me and 23 for my daughter next door).
Good luck on the new house and keep posting those "dumb" framing questions!
blue
*well blue, if you want to come out to the Pac. N.Wet this summer you can hang with me. No shortage of dumb framing questions here. Reforested 5 acres of my farm 6 yrs ago and now that they are getting up over my head and I can visualize a "woods" in my lifetime, it is my favorite piece of the property.JonC
*Izzo is a class act. Maybe I.U. will have a class act someday....Rich Beckman
*Having built in the area that your building Adam and the area where Jon C builds, I can tell you that the blocks are not functionally the same. You built an enclosed soffit last time and would have needed blocking and channel for ventilation above the insulation. Jon builds open eaves with exposed rafters and his blocks are vents and trim and structure too for that matter.joe d
*Probably pertinent to the education topic in the Tav but, I went to MSU the same 2 years as Magic. Transferred to LCC and studied photography 2 years, later took a couple of graduate level seminary courses. Entire known family went to MSU, grandad taught there. DW is an alumn. Mom (a MSU alumn)lives in GR.joe d
*That's a nice offer Jon. Any guy that reforests anything must have some good bones in his body!If I ever get out there in the big woods, I'll look you up.blue
*Rafters....trusses for weenies...near the rafters by the stream,aj
*What's that Jack ?> trusses for weenies.....???Them's fightin' words...............
*I'll cut and set my rafters faster and cheaper and better than any truss job you'll ever do....We'll start at the same time with the same plans...send yours out to be figured...order your pansey crane...get your crew up on the plates....I'll be down, done and watchin from my lawn chair pal....near the stream,aj
*Well Jack, we finally are on different sides of an issue.The beauty of trusses aren't the ease of installation that most carpenters think of. The most important feature of trusses is their ability to clear span long didtances and transfer the weight to the exterior walls. In many of the larger houses that we frame nowadays, we install mamoth girders. These girders could be replaced by huge beams, but setting huge steel (51# per foot and up) can be very time consuming.And the extra work down below, to make sure the interior walls are supported takes a lot more time too. So, if you are willing to make me a milk bone bet, I'll take you up on it. Don't be surprised though if you are stuck with an unbuildable house, while I'm flying the hip girder (already assembled) into position.weeningly yours,blue
*Jack - I was really just poking fun. I know there are people who don't like trusses, and it really doesn't bother me. (although I don't generally call them names)There have already been a couple of "races" like the one you suggest. But I can't find any info about it on the 'net.
*Just bustin with ya all...near the stream,aj
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Getting ready to build my second house and my wife has unfortunately decided that she MUST HAVE a house with a couple dormers, cathedral ceilings, 752 different gable directions, etc.
Is it possible to build a house with dormers and still be able to use trusses? Is there some way to use trusses on both sides of the dormer, double up the trusses on both sides, and put a header between them to hand frame the dormer?
I realize this is probably a stupid question. If you are wondering why a PE doesn't know this answer, let me explain: I am a mechanical engineer and my PE is for mechanical applications - I know a lot more about machine design than I do about residential house framing.
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trusses are great for big spans just completed a church with 60 foot trusses cant frame that with sticks. gutta watch out they dont come tummbling down on u though.