Replies

1. 
   Framer | Sep 22, 2004 09:51am | #1

   Let's say for example that your building is 16'you can just temporarily lay out where you want your vent to be by placing two of your commons down with a run of 8' less 1/2 the thickness of your ridge(nailing a block the full thickness of the ridge on one of the commons) and then place your birdsmouth on a 16' 2x4 on the deck laying flat or just tack the birdsmout of each rafter to the sill of the 16' wide wall.Once you've established how big you want the vented area you can mark it on one of your commons.

   Now measure down from that mark top the top of your H.A.P. cut and that will be the length of your rafter. If your pitch of your rafter is for example 5/12 and the length turns out to be 4'4" now you know you have a 5/12 pitch with a 4'4" common rafter length. If you have a Construction Master Calculator you can do this:

   5 [Inch] [Pitch]

   4'4" [Diag]

   Press [Run] Returns 4'

   Press {Hip/Val} Returns 5'10-3/4" (Length of your Hip)

   Now mark a line at 4'which is your run coming in off all both sides of your four corners of your top plates and X away from the outside corners. That will be where you start your Last Commons and where you start your 4' run commons.

   Before you nail your 4' run commons on take them amd lay them up to your last 8' run common rafters and scribe the plumbcut and that will be where you nail the 4' run plumbcut once you've nailed the birdsmouth in place first.

   I only showed you this way because you didn't know where the vent was first. Normaly you would have a setback mark or run for the smaller commons.

   Joe Carola

   
   

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   Edited 9/22/2004 8:33 am ET by Framer

1. 
   joewood | Sep 22, 2004 11:18pm | #2

   Hey Joe, you made that clear as a bell for me ! That sounds real easy, and I really appreciate the explanation bro.

   It's time I get a Construction Master too ! Thanks again Joe.

1. 
   joewood | Sep 23, 2004 02:30am | #3

   Here’s the roof I’m going to build. I was able to Sketch it easy enough, but I cheated a little bit in my drawing. Now that I know how to accurately do my layout, I can pre-cut everything in my shop, thanks to you Joe!

    

   Say, I’d like a little more advice, especially from an Engineer if you don’t mind ? …

    

   This will all be select tight-knot WR cedar. The posts will be 6X6, beams 6X8, and the rafters 4X6. What do you think would be the best fasteners for the top plumb cuts, and seat cuts ? I don’t want to see any hardware or fasteners from below, so I was thinking some sort of stainless steel or coated lag-type bolt at each spot. Maybe one 1/2 X 6 (countersunk flush) at the top, and at the seat cut one ½ X  8”  thru the rafter into the beam, countersunk, with 4” into the beam. This has to be able to pass inspection down here in San Diego. The roof covering will be bamboo.

    

   I suppose that doing a solid roof covering would change the fastener requirements, and I’d have to go with some hurricane straps or something ? Oh, and I was planning on tying the beams down using a ½ X 8 lags which would go 4” into each post.

    

   Also, would setting the posts into concrete footings like I show actually eliminate the need for diagonal post braces do you think ?  

    

   Putting the permit in on Fri.  

    

   .

    

2. 
   Framer | Sep 23, 2004 03:40am | #4

   Any time Joe. You'll be surprised what you can do with one of those Construction Masters. Make sure you post some pictures of the framing.

   Joe Carola

1. 
   joewood | Sep 23, 2004 08:40pm | #5

   Anyone have any answers to my connectors question, and the question about my shear being attained from the posts set in to concrete?