I’ve got some corner boards on my house that are rotting near the bottom. I’d like to cut them back a few inches and make “dutchmans” using AZEK.
My question is: What type of joint is best here? I have used simple butt joints in the past, but find they telegraph through even after sanding and painting (and AZEK doesn’t sand very well).
Thanks.
TF
Toolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as “Toolfreak”)
Replies
AZEK makes a corner board that just needs to be cut to length if I understand your question correctly
Sorry I wasn't clear. I'm referring to where the PVC dutchman connects to the old, wooden corner boards. I don't want to replace the entire corner board(s), just the rotting sections and replace them with PVC. Is there a better option then simply butting the PVC corner boards up against what's left of the old wooden ones.TFToolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as "Toolfreak")
Why not replace the rotted wood with new wood instead of AZEK? It would make your life easier, unless this is a spot where the wood will rot again real fast...in which case, address the water issues that are the root of the problem.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Justin, I don't buy your logic.
If I hear you correctly, you're saying that cellular PVC trim boards are a waste of money if you don't have any moisture problems. I don't buy that at all. Builders today are using PVC trimboards on brand new houses as an "insurance policy." They know that homeowners do stupid things (i.e. letting soil build up against the house, not maintaining gutters, etc.)
My house is 70 years old. I have regraded and solved the gutter issues. I don't think it's a bad idea to use PVC to replace a rotten section of a corner board. Corner boards are notorius for rotting near the bottom because end grain loves to suck up water like a wick and painters often overlook sealing the bottoms of these.
TFToolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as "Toolfreak")
FWIW there is a product out their for doing just this on door jambs where the bottom as rotted out. Call Jamb-Savers or something like that.
The expansion rate will not allow it. It is my biggest complaint using it on my house.
Toolfanatic,
I've done a few of these. I was taught to use a bevel cut at an upward angle above and below the damaged area. There are 2 reasons, 1) so any rain water won't find it's way backward through the seam and start a problem behind the siding (or in your case corner boards) and 2) the seam is a lot less noticable. I use a Roto-Zip to make the cuts so I don't damage any adjacent material but I understand a Fein Multimaster is a real good tool for this.
Good Luck
make a plinth block use "5/4" azek so it stands proud.
cut at a bevel still!!!
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!