Got an old delta drill press from a buddy.
Put a new switch and cord on it.
when I flip the switch it just hums or goes real slow.
I can give it a spin and it will get up to speed.
And if I spin it the other way it runs backwards.
IIR this means it needs a new Capacitor(?)
the can shaped thing on the side of the motor?
Any motor gurus out there??
It is a GE 1/3 horse motor.
Thanx in advance for any help!!
Mr T
I can’t afford to be affordable anymore
Replies
Possibly.
But just as likely is that you need to transfer some that HOT AIE that your are full of to the motor <G>.
Seriously there is also a centrifical switch on motor shaft that that engages the start winding/cap.
Try blowing that out. If that does not work get the cap. If it still does not work then pull the end off to get to the switch and clean it.
Also check the connection in the wiring box.
It could be a bad cap, burned out starter winding, or bad centrifugal switch. Also possible that the old power switch had momentary a starter winding connection in it.
I would probly just get a 1/2 hp motor for it and be done with it. a little extra ooomph is always good.
I once welded up a 3/4 hp pump motor to my lathe. Found out afterwards which way they spin DOH! Can't reverse it either, lucky for me a twist in the belt like a figure 8 worked..LOL
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I'll just do it>
Your old press may have a 3 phase motor,or it may be a 240v motor.
Todd
Good point. Check the motor for a nameplate.
It is a 120v motor.
had all the original wiring.
I just put on a new cord and switch.
would the polarity matter on an older motor like this?
I switched the hot leg.
I believe that is how it was wired before but not sure.
are there any times when you would switch the neutral??
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
"would the polarity matter on an older motor like this?"Nope."I switched the hot leg.
I believe that is how it was wired before but not sure.
are there any times when you would switch the neutral??"The motor doesn't know and doesn't care. break one lead and it stop.
Bill's responses were good.
Cut to the chase - take off the end bell, file the centrifugal switch contacts, (probably pitted and obvious craters, etc) then reassemble. That should fix you up.
If it don't, a new HF motor is almost as cheap as a new start (burnt open) capacitor.
OK I tried cleaning the contacts.
so now how do I check the start capacitor.
it is 158 -190 MF 110v. 60 cy.
anyone have a link to an online supplier if thats what I need?
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
look in the yeller pages...
they're sold at most all motor shops...
Grangies or Johnstones or or El Sid's or Sid Harvey's or Tempco...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
And hardware stores.
Any motor shop in your area should have replacement caps. Or if you have an old capacitor start motor around you can "borrow" one off of it. It doesn't have to be an exact match. The only significant number is the microfarads value, and probably anything between 100 and 250 will work. It doesn't matter if it's a cap with a 250V or so rating from a 240V motor.A cap can be tested with a relatively simple test setup, but it's just a bit to complicated to explain here. But if you should happen to have an old mechanical multimeter with an ohms scale, you can use that: Short a wire between the two ends of the cap for a couple of seconds, disconnect one lead of the cap from the motor, then place the probes of the meter (on about a 1000 ohm scale) across the cap terminals. The needle should jump up quickly and then "sag" back to the peg over the period of a second or two.Electronic meters aren't too good for this since they don't use enough voltage/current to get a good measurement, and, besides, it's hard to watch the "needle" on one.You can use the electronic meter, though, to check the continuity of the start winding, and of the centrifugal switch.
That electirc supply at Church and RT 17 (block or so west of there) next to Kennedy Valve sells them...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Just got done swapping the motor with a Jacuzzi pump motor I remembered I had.
Everthing bolted up just fine.
cept the thing runs backwards!!!!
I can't get my drill bits sharp enuff to cut backward!!!!
I'll check out a couple of local suppliers this week.
First i'm gonna test the cap.
Well at least it gives me something to do!!
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
the new motor should be reversible...
check the schematic on the data plate...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
In theory the motor can be reversed by simply swapping the leads for the starter winding.
you missed my post earlier..no can switch it over.I did it on my lathe..welded the fokker in place, THEN found out it was bassakwards...twist the belt. if ya can.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I'll just do it>
some motors ya can...
most all universal will let ya...
you screwed up...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Stopped into the electric Motor repair shop (next to the HW store on collitch ave)
Showed the guy my motor and capac.
he tested the cap and said it was fried.
handed me a salvaged on off his shelf
No charge.
hooked er up and she goes!!!!
I asked about the jacuzzi motor and he said they are usually made one direction only.
So now I got an extra motor for whatever I can come up with for it to run.
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
about time ya got a real deal...
now find a spare ...
look at the lable on the other moter and see if it will rewire for deirection turn...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
No label.
apparantly Jacuzzi gets there motors the same way as lowes gets tools.
just good enough!
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
how many terminals or wires under the lid...
what's the number sequence...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
what about the diagram
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
there's a flat spot opposite the nameplate that looks like it is where the diagram should be, holes for rivets and all, but it is barren.
I suspect Jacuzzi gets there motors from GE by the train load and GE basically gives just what they need and no more.
them labels really add up after 10 million motors!!
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
If its a pump motor..it's not reversable..trust me..just ask my lathe.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Watch out for the edges, it's really fast out there...
All you need to do to reverse it is to dig the buried end of the start winding out from where is connects to the main winding. It is NOT on a nice screw terminal, which is why it is considered 'non-reversible' aka the HF $80 3 HP motors, which are also reversible if you dig out the winding connection.
Often the connection is shoved down into one of the slots so it has to be pulled out. Once you have found both ends of the start winding, simply reverse the connection and solder back together. . A collection of small tie-wraps and some high temp tape (kapton for example, not vinyl) is usually needed to put stuff back together.
shucks..where wereyou when I welded the frame up and was perplexed about that? LOL..I just twisted the belt in a figgure eight..helluva lot easier..(G)
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Watch out for the edges, it's really fast out there...
Morty, You home yet???
Happy new year to you and OREO!
Mr T
I can't afford to be affordable anymore
nope and thanks...
next week fer home fer a few days to take care of some back-logged work and then it's off to the Bitterroot... (ID)
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Generally you should switch the hot/brass/narrow-pin side, just because it de-energizes the motor when switched off, slightly improving safety. The motor doesn't care.
Bad capacitor/s, bad starting windings or circuit are all possible.
What I would do:
1) Check the motor wiring compartment to make sure the motor is configured to operate on the voltage your using it on. I have seen normal 120v receptacles rewired to feed 240v and then the motor on a machine tool reconfigured to work on 240v. Just because the cord cap has two verticle slots and a mouth, the standard 15A - 120v configuration, doesn't mean the motor is configured for 120v.
Motors often have a bit more performance run on 240v and 240v receptacles and a matching cord cap are not free. Shoot for getting it to run on 120v.
Most motors have a wiring diagram in some form showing how to configure the leads for 120v or 240v. Look under the lid to the compartment and closely at the interior of the compartment. A mirror and flashlight help. Get the cord cap to match the motor wiring.
Once you get it running the conversion to 240v, if you wish to do it, is easy. Just don't go cheap on it. Get the new 240v receptacle and cord cap. Tools wired for 120v plugged into 240v because someone didn't bother to change out the receptacle when the circuit was converted run very, very well. They just don't do it for very long.
2) With the unit unplugged and the starting capacitors discharged drop the back cover, opposite the shaft and find the starting contacts. Polish them a bit with a strip of high quality writing paper. Cotton Rag is best. You can use a pencil erasor if you are dead sure to clear away the rubbings. Files and emery boards are generally too abrasive but may be of some use if the contacts are pitted.
After going through step one and two. Reassemble everything and give the unit a try. Odds are that it will work. Takes care of about 75% of these problems.
If not replace the capacitor/s.
That takes care of another 20%.
Replacing the motor covers the remaining 5%.