Replies

1. 
   jim_l | Jun 08, 2001 10:24pm | #1

   *
   Dome,
   "Would the wood
   be too green? "
   That's the question you need to find out yourself.
   jim l

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Jun 08, 2001 10:36pm | #2

   *Dome - I'll take a shot at it. You don't mention the species, which is somewhat relevant, since different species dry differently. At 4 x 6 (large cross-section for end-grain flooring) I suspect you'll run into a certain amount of radial checking that will be very noticeable. See if anyone else agrees but I think this would be somewhat risky.Jeff

1. 
   Ed_Hilton | Jun 08, 2001 11:17pm | #3

   *But he says he plans to use a cork grout. Will thsat be flexible enough to absorb some dimensional changes?

1. 
   Mongo_ | Jun 09, 2001 12:16am | #4

   *Like JimL recommended, only you (or someone you designate) can measure the mc of the wood. If it is still "wet" when you install it, you'll suffer shrinkage and checking...despite the cork grout. The grout can help, but it will not totally eliminate undesirable wood happenings.Don't just be concerned with shrinkage. The 4x6 pieces will expand during periods of high humidity...even if sealed. As Jeff recommended, find out the species, cross-reference the charts to see just how much your tiles could (expand) grow...and compare that to the proposed width of your cork grout lines. I've seen pictures of one improperly installed floor where too tightly laid tiles buckled/cracked when the wood moved. Also, as Jeff wrote, some woods dry better than others.If the numbers look unfavorable, you could consider halving your tiles from 4x6 to 3x4, allowing you to tighten up your grout lines a bit.Do it well, and strive to do it right. A properly done end-grain wood floor is a beautiful thing to behold.Nice choice...and good luck.

1. 
   Ian.D.Gilham. | Jun 09, 2001 12:57am | #5

   *Fortunately, the end grain blocks dry out quickly so acclimatize them for about 7 days in the area in which they will be laid.After the laying is finished, leave the floor for a week to 10 days before sanding and finishing -- this'll give you a chance to fill any checking that may occur and as an end-block floor looks more 'rustic' than traditional parquet any filling won't be obtrusive.

2. 
   CaseyR_ | Jun 09, 2001 02:33am | #6

   *Using cut ends for flooring has been discussed several times. You might even be able to find some of the threads by searching Breaktime (I'm not being sarcastic here, it's just that in recent searches I have been unable to find threads that I know are out there...) The following thread is one and it refernces another that has a rather extensive writeup of the procedures that were used: Jerry "cobble wood floor questions" 1/29/01 1:16amThe factory I saw being repaired that used cut end wood blocks used pieces of 4x6 that were about 3" thick. Those blocks were held in place with mastic and were well oiled from the spilled fluids from the tractors that were worked on in there. They appeared to hold up surprisingly well to Caterpillar tractor treads and welding sparks.

3. 
   Ian.D.Gilham. | Jun 09, 2001 03:45am | #7

   *End grain Oak blocks were used to pave roads until fairly recently in London.I vividly remember skidding on wet blocks on Highgate Hill, Archway riding a Lambretta scooter.They were set in pitch and tarred regularly.

2. 
   Dome_Builder | Jun 09, 2001 03:45am | #8

   *
   I am building a dome home and want to put end block flooring in the loft using the corktech product for grout. I have found a free source for short pieces of 4x6 timbers used to build timber framed houses. I have the tools and the "know-how" mass produce the blocks. My question is: Is there reason not to use these timber pieces? Would the wood be too green and thus cause a shrinking problem (or other problems)? Help~