I am interested in finding out peoples thoughts on the most appropriate wood(s) to use for an end grain wood floor I am starting. I will be using butt ends 4×4″ (?) sections aprox 3″ long. glued onto 3/4″ subfloor. Also any hints on if there are inexpensive sources for this material or does one ‘bite the bullet’ and simply buy necessary stock in full length lumber?
Thank you much – new member to this fine forum.
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I will be undertaking that myself this winter. I am using red and white oak and cherry in 4x4 and 4x6 , I want a pattern.
I am intending to use Bostics best trowelled down With 3/16th notches. I am leaving a grout space about 3/16th. My blocks will be 1.5" thick ( I already had to raise some stuff, like doors to accomodate that), with a sawdust and POLY/Linseed oil binder.
I calculated how many block I can get out of a "rail" of 4x6 from my local sawmill, and add about 20% for for extreme checking or defects. My whole floor will come in around a buck a sq.ft Plus labor. I bought the 12" Bosch saw just for chopping all the blocks.
I also intend to create a slight champher on all the top edges, a routertable is the best way, or a stationary belt sander.
Every year or two I will reoil the floor, thats all.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I also intend to create a slight champher on all the top edges, a routertable is the best way, or a stationary belt sander.
Now THAT is an ambitious project!!
Hold on to your fingers.
Why so thick?
EricIt's Never Too Late To Become
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Why 1.5" thick?.. Well, I have a transition from the LOG part to the NEW part right there in the kitchen..it now is about 4" and an awkward step. I figgured I'd make it more like a Step, than a toe tripper.
Also the wood I will be using is AD and WILL check shortly after sawing...so a bit thicker is mo betta IMO.
When I added the outside door I left a PT bottom plate, and also figgured the counter heights and such for 1.5" added..so Now I am kinda commited..( or oughtta be..LOL).
I feel the champher is the finishing touch detail..more like a paver than a tile look..and the edges will be splintery if I don't do something, I expect the grout to shrink a bit, and this is all I could come up with. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Hey Sphere, I'm curious about that 3/16" "grout" joint. Grew up in a 18th C house in PA. Walnut floors with a linseed/sawdust like gap filler. Musta been boiled linseed oil, cause it was hard. The boards shrank & expanded, but I don't think that the filler did. I'm sure you've got a reason, but why not just jam everything up jelly tight, with a perimeter gap?And, can't you get any Hickry outta Doud?<g> "what's in a name?" d'oh!
Good point on the grouting..VS tite as a frogs azz. The BOSS wants the LOOK of the grout..See, anything to keep me working at it forever makes her happy..LOL
I can get Hickory here and may include some..depends on the mills attitude and what they are sawing at the time. I can't afford to buy from David with gas being so high..and then this.
I JUST got my van back today, after 4!!!! FOUR days of tracking down a stinking 11 dollar heater hose. Halfway to Frankfort today ( to add my contribution to the "Goose Chase").... and they called me back and said, " uh, were just gonna MAKE a hose" Arrgh..
So That, vehicle is NOT traveling very far from home much more..when it blew FRI afternoon, it was 78.00 for the tow. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Ahhh, a nudder version of being "hosed" <G> Arrrgh!Sounds like a sweet floor. I'm thinking of something like it in a half bath...a whole bunch cheaper that $6/4x4 tile my boss has been 'snortin around. LOL "what's in a name?" d'oh!