Replies

1. 
   MikeWillms | Apr 12, 2002 03:39am | #1

   Wow..DeJavue.. Think we had a discussion just like this a while ago..

   20x24, either way clear span trusses. No beam required (unless you want it for decoration). A truss manufacturer in your area will know the design specs required for snow load, etc.

   918 Contracting - Residential Construction

1. 
   ahneedhelp | Apr 12, 2002 05:24am | #2

   I have sitting on the floor of my garage two Parallam PSL headers made by Truss Joist. One is a 1-3/4" x 14" x 18', the other a 3.5" x 14" x 18'.

   They will be combined to form a 5-1/4" x 14" x 17' beam to replace a sagging truss.

   To quote their brochure;

   Supports heavier loads than comparably-sized glulam or solid-sawn lumber products.

   Longer spans for wide open rooms without intermediate posts or columns.

   An engineer could help you with the correct size.

   If you're careful about who you talk to, an experienced sales person can also help with the sizing.

   In my case I was given the wrong dimensions by a less experienced sales person and this mistake was caught by another, resulting in a smaller dimension beam and less cost. (Thank goodness.)

   And architect friend concurred with the final sizing.

   http://www.trusjoist.com/products/respar.cfm

1. 
   Eyeguy3038 | Apr 12, 2002 04:56pm | #6

   Funny you should mention parallam, I was at Weyerhauser warehouse in Brampton this morning doing some safety glasses. I just COULDNT talk them into dropping a couple in my truck! LOL  Thanks for your help

2. 
   Piffin | Apr 12, 2002 05:38am | #3

   To put it another way marc, should my next pair of glasses by tinted or not, and will it make any difference if I choose the metal frames or plastic to hold the lenses?

   Welcome, but it seems you lack the terminology and structural understanding to frame the question you may be trying to ask. Either that, or your suppositions are redundant because, as has been said, no beam is needed with a truss roof because it is engineered to span the required distance. So it doesn't matter if you tint it or look at it through plastic frames if the optical grinding and polishing is done to prescription.

   Are we talking the same lanquage? Parlez vous?

   Excellence is its own reward!
1. 
   BungalowJeff | Apr 12, 2002 07:38am | #4

   Best bet is to have a truss sized correctly and forget the beam. The last roof truss post included a link to the drawings of the pre-engineered truss in question. The manufacturer inlcuded all code and design load information on the drawing with the engineer's seal....that's not a mistake, it's rustic

1. 
   Eyeguy3038 | Apr 12, 2002 05:03pm | #8

   Thanks Jeff

2. 
   Eyeguy3038 | Apr 12, 2002 05:00pm | #7

   Thanks Piffin, I guess what I was needing to know was whether I needed a support beam or if it could be done without and still be structurally sound. In answer to your other question, if you are a contractor, go with a plastic frame, it wont stick to your face in the cold and pink lenses work best, gives a better outlook on the world and keeps the other guys away so you can get more work done LOL Thanks again

3. 
   BossHog | Apr 12, 2002 02:35pm | #5

   Marc -

   The longest clear span truss I know of is 90' or so. Spans of up to 80' are fairly common, and 60' spans are just typical everyday stuff.

   With a 20' or 24' span, you should be able to easily get a 100 PSF live load on a roof truss. But you need to be talking to people in your area, who know your code requirements and snow loads.

   no way would I put a beam and post in the middle of a cabin.

   Truss Designer Extraordinaire

1. 
   Eyeguy3038 | Apr 12, 2002 05:05pm | #9

   Thanks Boss, didnt really want a post and beam running down the centre.