I am installing a 3/8″ engineered wood, glue down floor. The subfloor is 3/4″ plywood, glued and screwed to 16″ on center 2×8’s. I need to raise the floor an additional 1/2″ to transition the 3/8″ finished floor into another room. My question is this, should I use 1/2 plywood, particle board or wafer board for this final 1/2″, any suggestions would be appreciated.
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1/2" ply underlayment is best, but I can make a case for the particle board too in a situation like this.
Do not use the particle baord where it might be wetted, such as a kitchen, and entry, or a bathroom.
But since engineered flooring will need replacement in 10-15 years, and this is a glue down, it will be a lot easier to pull back up if you screw down particle baod instead of plywood
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Wonder why he is doing a glue down over wood subfloor?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
3 reasons to go with the glue down;
1. Very small room, 8x9 and the flooring material was FREE (end of a run, too small a quantity to stock, inventory, etc)
2. Trying to match the wood floor in the adjoining room
3. Did I mention it was FREE?
Experienced, but still dangerous!
That doesn't explain the reason you want to glue it down instead of floating it.
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So it doesn't sound hollow.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
news to me - does gluing in a small room make it less hollow sounding than floating it? The couple times I did this, it was in smallish rooms and it sounded fine to me.
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No personal experience, but I have walked on several floors that were not nailed/glued, it it sounded like a tap dance floor.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
They probably skipped the foam pad under
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Or nailing (staple) it.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
According to the manufacturer (Anderson) directions this is a glue down floor. The tongue & grooves are not robust enough for nailing or staples and the design will not allow it to stay together if not glued down to the substrate. The floating floors I am familiar with have a click or snap together feature on the edges that hold the planks together.
Maybe there is a better way, but I was just following the directions that came with the floor.
By the way, I went with the 1/2 inch plywood and just finished it up at 9:00 pm tonight. Through my blood shot eyes, it looks great. Thanks for your help.Experienced, but still dangerous!
and it was cheap!LOL;)
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the floor was free, I'm the one who is cheap.
Experienced, but still dangerous!
" The floating floors I am familiar with have a click or snap together feature on the edges that hold the planks together"Floating floors have been around long before click and lock systems.They used glue in the groves. Used for both laminate and engineered wood.And one engineered wood floor system used a system where glue was put in the grove when manufactured and it was activated when the boards where assembled. I believe that they had problems with it and it was discontinued. It was made by Bruce or one of the other major brands..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
You are correct, I do remember the old "glue in the groove" floors from a few years back, but I never had the pleasure. Seems like it would be awful messy.Experienced, but still dangerous!
yeah they were almost completely discontinued because of all the warrenty issues...
Just didn't wear good. Of course im my opinion today's laminate flooring is a cheap short life product too, but its all the rage. However I still install thousands of square foot of it. Hey it pays-
3/8's harwood (solid stuff) that you staple down seems to be a good product, I just installed a 400 su foot floor of it and it has a solid look and feel like 3/4
When in doubt, get a bigger hammer!