Is anyone here a structural engineer? I have a customer who wants a second story deck that will support a hot tub. The question is about the load bearing wall. It is 2x4x10 and currently supports a 2 foot cantilever that contains a bath tub and a shower. It will need to hold this plus its half of the deck structure. The deck is spec’d to use double 2×12’s either 12 or 16 o/c so im not worried about that. Oh I almost forgot just to add to the fun there is a 36″ wide window in the load wall. I guess after writing this im kind of answering my own question but here it goes…should we double the studs in the bearing wall? The wall and foundation are new construction. Thanks in advance.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
With the right approach, you can restore old hardware—whether through soaking, scrubbing, or polishing—giving it a fresh look while preserving its original charm.
Featured Video
Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by BrickHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
In your situation you're best off hiring an engineer to physically inspect the site. It's likely that there are conditions which may not be evident from your description which would need to be checked in person. Decks fall down all the time so it's really worth the money to be sure to handle this special loading correctly.
Is there any viable and aesthetically acceptable way to set posts beneath the rim next to the house? It sounds like you'd need something there considering the cantilever and extra load considerations.
Yeah I could probably get some posts under the cantilever. My plan as it sits now is to remove the rim joist from the cantilever and run the deck joists in over the load bearing wall. Thats why my question was more towards reinforcing that wall. I do understand that the extra posts would do essentially the same thing but I think the homeowner would like to avoid that if possible.
If you run the deck joists to the supporting wall, you will have no problem with this wall being able to support the weight. The biggest problem will be keeping water out of the floor and wall. Once you take off the rim joist and sheathing, the water can follow the deck joists into the house. It is possible to flash this junction, but it is easy to screw it up. I would have an engineer analyze whether the cantilever can support the load, since this would be the best way to keep the weather out.
Thanks for the response. I'm not too worried about water since the homeowner speced 3/4 pt plywood sheathing covered with a rubber membrane (that we will run three inches up the wall) then the sleepers and decking.
I'd spring for the extra deck posts so that it's self-supporting.
There are a lot of things I'm not understanding here. So the tub and shower get demoed? Or do you cram the 2x12 deck joists in under them to rest on the top plate of the 2x4 wall? Unless the upstairs floor joists are 2x12 or better, that's a problem, and you're making a step up to the deck?
10 ft. 2x4's 16" o.c. hold up the upstairs and roof on lots of houses, so there's a good chance this would work. But still you gotta have the actual dimensions, weights, and plans and run the calculations. You also have to consider the footing and soil.
-- J.S.
You have at least a two-fold situation to consider: 1. the canted joists (do they run back to bearing, or are they coming back to a header? (i.e. is the joist direction parallel or perp. with the rest of the floor framing?) The extra deck load will want to "pick-up" the canted joists on the opposite end. 2. the 10' studs will want to bow with the extra load, therefore blocking may be more appropriate than adding studs. I'd have an engineer look at it and prescribe a course of action. What you want to do dosen't sound out of the ordinary, but there are alot of variables to consider.