Because of our odd sized front door (31 1/2″X 71 3/4″), my only option to replace it seems to be building a custom door.
I checked fine woodworking’s archive and only found one article about door building (issue #9, from 1977). Can anyone suggest any books or magazine articles that are more recent and include plans?
Thanks,
Jason Gauthier
Replies
I ordered my odd size door from the door shop. They didn't batt an eye.
However, it did batt my wallet!
there could be other alternatives... like reframing the opening and using a pre-hung
might be cheaper and better
Mike! His odd size is less that six feet tall! Or are they regularly making five-tens for the RI market? ;-)
gene..... what 's your point ?
nowhere does he say that it is impossible to reframe the opening
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike, you are right, he doesn't say. But he is willing to scratchbuild a new wood door to the exact size of the old one. I am making the supposition, and I probably shouldn't without questioning further, that he has a height restriction and cannot reframe taller.
not me.... suppose he has 7' ceilings ?.. i could reframe that
and 7'6 ? ...... POC
maybe he likes wooden doors and is really into building a new door
BUT.. he could reframe and put a new standard size door in
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
No idea about the OP's situation, but mine was forced due to the exterior brick veneer. I couldn't even have rebricked the opening due to the placement of windows & walls. But the door shops handle these all the time.
I can't reframe the door. The door frame is a single 2X4 on left, right and above. There are windows above and on both sides that would be a problem. The entry door is in what was originally an open porch. It was closed in with windows in the 1940s and the door was added. So, reframing the door would require some substantial work.
The Pella rep suggested doing this, requiring not only a custom pre-hung door that they could make, but also the now custom windows to fit the smaller window openings around the door. The quote was $5800 . . . after the 20% discount. I have the tools and workshop, but my skills are in furniture making. I am hoping that with a plan, an entry door wouldn't be too much different than a cabinet door.
I missed typed the door height in my original post. The opening height is 79". The current door is approximately 31 1/4 X 77 3/4". (There is a gap at the bottom of 1" so it can open inward. The original porch floor is sloped - higher at the house, lower at the front - like I suppose most porch floors are supposed to be when the porch is open to the elements).
I wouldn't be adverse to a nice metal door, the problem is that I have been told that to get it the height I need, the stamped panels would be off center.
Jason
Edited 8/13/2006 3:49 pm ET by JasonG
well.... sounds like the windows suck too
why don't you post some pictures so we can really make your life miserable with our armchair suggestions ?
i'm kind of sneaking around to my way of saying that redoing the windows AND the door might be the best solution
seriously..... does rebuilding the door solve your problem ... or postpone it ?
a lot has to do with how long you intend to live in the houseMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I have (hopefully) attached two photos. I am open to any suggestions that don't involve a a second mortgage and/or a wrecking ball.
Jason
jason.... this
View Image
could easily be reframed
View Image
both side windows could become sidelights and some solid wall
or the windows could become solid wall
the transom light over the door could simply be eliminated and provide the space you need for a header
the only problem i see MAY be what it will look like on the exterior
maybe you can post some pics of this elevation on the exterior
what is your siding ?
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 8/13/2006 8:51 pm ET by MikeSmith
The exterior is vinyl siding. The framing around the door and windows was wrapped in aluminum when the siding was done. Cutting the siding wouldn't be too bad, but I would think all the white aluminum trim would be a pain.
Jason
so what used to be a porch is now a "what"
also... where do you live.. it looks like the kind of porch for a winter climate
if so... converting to an insulated door would be a good thing... but there are a lot of variables to consider
how long yu gonna live there ?
c'mon... c'mon... spill the beans
this is like pulling teethMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
this is like pulling teeth
But, the dentist is "in." ;-)
It all sounded tough before the photos got posted, and now it looks like a no brainer. We'll watch with admiration as Dr. Smith walks him through it.
Cheer up, Mike. Those guys up north of you? The ones that do "Car Talk?" They have fun while they are pulling teeth, and entertain us all while doing so.
I don't have any plans to move in the next 20 years.The porch is now used as a three season room and playroom for my kids.The house is in Anne Arundel County, Maryland.Jason
well.. if you wanted to increase the comfort level in that room , you could reframe the door and the flanking windows, and insulate the open studs
then develop a program of replacing the other windows with vinyl replacement windows with insulating glass
it will be easier to heat and cool the room...
i would bet the windows precede 1978 , so they may have lead paint... a replacement plan would also help with reducing that exposure
or.. you could build a custom wooden door to replace your existing and move onMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I would comment, but my comments and suggestions would be similar to Mike's.
He is giving you good advise with excellent long term value.
Reframe the door opening, add a new door and window above at minimum.
My local yard has a door shop and could resolve your worries with about a 2 week leadtime.
You might check local availability of such a shop.
Simpson will also build to order, but the price is a bit steep.
Of course, with your furniture skills, building a door should be a piece of cake, provided you can source the right wood.
Most "clear/stain finish" doors these days are overlayed with VG veneer, even the Doug fir ones.
YOU can probably do better than that, if you have the time and inclination.
Have fun!
If you make furniture you can make a door.
You need some decent material for the rails and stiles, panels can be whatever you like.
Two rails with good sized mortises, 3 stiles fairly wide with wide tenons keep it flat and no sag.
Set it up for assy on 2 saw horses, string from corner to corner diagonally will tell you when it's flat. Shim the horses or door itself to flat.
Panels are the same as what you'd build for a cabinet door.
It's ain't rocket science, here's my outdoor door shop with a screen door going together.
View Image
Biggest problem here is the non availability of lumber to choose from.
Google up some doors & pick the style you like.
Joe H
Hey Joe--I like those folding hosses
They've seen a lot of use.
1x3" fir with ply gussets & piffin screws.
There's a pair of cabinet hinges at the top & a piece of light chain at the bottom that keeps them from opening too far. Weigh a couple pounds each & lay flat.
They'll hold a lot of weight, I haven't tested them to destruction yet.
Joe H
You don't say what sort of door you want - a metal 6-panel would look terrible, a solid wood door could be cut down to size ok.
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.