Anyone out there use an Equal-i-zer weight distribution hitch to pull their cargo trailer or other large trailer?
Just wanted to get some real world evaluation of this hitch.
I pull a 7′ x 14′ wedge-nose cargo trailer with a 1998 Astro AWD. I have some sway with this setup, and from what research I have done, this hitch seems to be the best fit for the price.
Thanks,
Bryan
“Objects in mirror appear closer than they are.”
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio – just south of the Glass City
Replies
i have used them years ago,they seemed to have faded away. i always used them so that the ounge weight was lighten up on the tow vehicle.
swaying usally indicates that the tounge is to light,can you pick up the tounge or is it tandem axle? try and load the front heavier and see if that helps.
nothing more irritating than hit 53mph and your trailer starts swinging like jaylo's hips. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
WD hitches are still used, but for a trailer that size I would be looking at other things.
A WD hitch is designed to help distribute more of the load thru the tongue into the tow vehicle, and they're useful for larger trailers, like up above 12 or 14K for weight. Before you spend on anything and end up less than satisfied, a couple of things really really worth checking.
Load distribution in the trailer should be about 60/40 favoring in front of the axle(s). Not being fairly even I can attest will generate an uncomfortable ride that may include sway. Another to check, especially given your tow vehicle, is tongue weight. 10% of total trailer weight is great, 15 is still ok, over that consider shifting where things sit. Anywhere that you can weigh the vehicle or trailer, if you can have the pad for a few minutes, unhitch the trailer and rest only the tongue on the platform. You can weigh tongue weight that way.
I honestly suspect that the culprit is the tow vehicle and that the rear end springs are not up to the task. I also suspect that you're not running an E rated tire, which is probably what you need to be for the load. You can figure that with math and GVWRs but the higher the load rating the less side sway you get from the tires themselves.
Failing all of that, a less expensive and perhaps happier option for you might just be a sway bar. You can go look at etrailer.com at sways, hitches, etc. Those essentially put a shock in the load path that can help to keep the tail from wagging the dog, so to speak.
I dont want to jump on you and have no idea what you have in the trailer but for your sake and everyone elses make sure you're not overweight for the tow vehicle. Check your door tag for load capacity. I've seen a lot of the end result of overloaded trailers and its ugly and expensive most of the time. Barring that, check the things I mentioned and look at sways and see if you don't think thats a better route.
I dont know if I need trailer credentials but mine now is an 8x20 tandem at 12K and its a bumper dragger. I dont have a WD on there and its set up for a sway but I just dont need the thing. When I change, hopefully soon, its going to become a gooseneck.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
worth every dime and all time and trouble to set them up..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Other's have touched on the weight distribution thing but there is more. Too much weight on one side of the trailer than the other can also cause sway, which increases as your speed does. A load leveling hitch won't help that at all.
Having too much weight behind the axles also is a no-no and the hitch will not help that.
But based on the size of trailer and what you are using to haul it with, I think your vehicle is weak for the load. ( Hope you have brakes on the trailer) In that case, the hitch will help immensely.
I had a half ton long time ago that I hauled a couple different trailers with and the hitch made night and day change of handling and safety. The torsion bars primary purpose is to use tension to transfer part of the tongue weight from off the rear axle of your two vehicle onto the front axle, so you are not pointing at the sky with your windshield. This increases steering capability. Also with more equal loading on all four wheels, your cornering is improved.
With your rig sizes, I would do it, but don't forget to pay attention to load distribution inside the trailer itself.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I used to tow a 30.5 ft travel trailer and the equalizer hitch kept the front wheels of the van on the ground, leveling the ride and improved the steering. Sway, which is caused by the mass of the towed vehicle attempting to move the rear of the towing vehicle side to side, was slightly improved because the front wheels had more weight on them with more road friction to counter the whip effect.
The anti-sway mechanism is an add-on device to dampen the side to side force and control the mass of the towed vehicle affecting the towing vehicle. Mine was a simple adjustable friction bar and it worked. Towing at highway speeds and dealing with the wind pressure generated by tractor-trailers was night and day difference after I installed the control.
I don't know the weight of your towing vehicle but the lighter it is in relation to what you are towing, as well as the surface area presented by the towed vehicle, determines the effectiveness of whatever you use. If you have a light tow but a lot of area then I would expect the damper to have less effect, especially at highway speeds.
Yes - we pull a 20' Roadrunner camper with a minivan; first a '96 Astro, then a '94 Voyager, now a 2003 Town & Country. Just for grins, I disconnected the WD bars (once!) and drove it around. Scary!
Big vote for it.
Forrest
Bryan:
If you're asking about Equal-i-zer as a brand name, never heard of 'em. I'd say that an Astro pulling a trailer of that size is what weight-distributing hitches are for. I often tow over 7,500 lb with an old Jeep Wagoneer (rated optimistically at 6,000 lb), and the W-D hitch is all that lets it work. My sway control is some old friction bar thing that's better than nothin' I guess. I hear good things about the Reese dual-cam setup. I also use adjustable shocks (Rancho 9000 on the Jeep), and was surprised at how much they help with minor sway.
}}}}
To all:
Here is the link to the Equal-i-zer hitch. It is a load distributing hitch as well as having 4-way sway control built in. No need for add-on sway bars.
Bryan
http://www.equalizerhitch.com
Also, here is a picture of the hitch.
View Image"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
I would say you are overloaded for your rig. The Astro has a maximum towing ability of 5,000 lbs. How much does your trailer weigh loaded? What is your tongue weight? This is critical.
For a more detailed discussion on towing, swaying or equilizer hitch go to http://www.rv.net/. Its a hot topic there.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Marv,
I have a discussion going right now over at rv.net.
Here is the link: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20000673/srt/pa/pging/1/page/2.cfm
There seems to be more pros than cons for towing with an Astro/Safari. And those that do tow with one use a WD hitch.
My main question was: Has anyone here had any real world experience with the Equal-i-zer hitch in particular?
And I'll also add: Which hitch rating should I go with? The 6000# or the 10,000#?
I will probably never load any more than 5000# total weight, trailer and cargo in this trailer. So, it would seem practical to go with the 6000# version.
Thanks, Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
I can offer no advice....I've never used one. My tow vehicle is a Ford E350 van (1 ton). I can tow about anything. I would get all the figures together, TV facts, hitch weight, trailer weight and call equalizer.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
<Has anyone here had any real world experience with the Equal-i-zer hitch in particular?>
YES.
I have the identical hitch to that pic. To disconnect, I just release the arms, fold them all the way forward against the back bumper, and unhitch the ball normally. Hitch stays in the receiver. Leave the arms diconnected to manuever.
Forrest
So, how do you like it? What are you towing, and what is your tow vehicle?
Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=92483.7
Sorry! Didn't look at previous posts."Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
You would be insane to try hauling enough with the Astro to need a ten thousand pound Equilizer. The mount to your vehicle is probably not even that ratingbut someday you might move on up to a larger vehicle, and your hitch can move with you
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
True.
But, then, someday I might upgrade to a larger tow vehicle.
That was the reason that I went ahead with the 10K hitch. I plan never to exceed the 5K rating on my Astro.
Also, the sway isn't much. But, it is enough to concern me. Sure, I could keep on going without one, but I think I will like the additional safety margin this will give me.
As far as those who are saying that it is an unsafe setup: Everybody had better quit driving anything they own. You are riding in a box with continual explosions going on in front of you, at a speed that WILL kill you if you hit an unmovable object, you have a container of highly flammable liquid with you that can and will explode given the right cicumstances. Shall I go on?
We passed a UPS semi-truck on the turnpike in Indiana that had gone off the road. The trailer was split open. Who knows if anyone was seriously injured or killed. And I'm sure he/she was a trained professional.
So, if we are not going to take any chances at all, then it would be best to stay home. Wait! The air inside your home could be poisoned!!!!!!!!
Now, that is not to say that I am a careless driver. Or that I am driving an unsafe vehicle. I have my van regularly serviced. Some major front suspension parts were recently replaced. My alignment was adjusted. I put new shocks on al around. The brake rotors were just turned. I have over 130K miles on it. And, I am not towing more than what the vehicle is rated for.
My rant is done for now.
Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
BryanKlakamp,
I've towed a tandem axle race car trailer all over the country with a little S10 blazer. My tool box probably weighed more than the contents of your whole trailer. not to mention spare engines, trans, etc..
It's not the size of the tow vehicle but the trailer itself that makes the differance. If the trailer is really right then it tows like a dream. If not, it's going to whip and sway.
Just for grins think about 18 wheelers for a moment, the tractor part weighs maybe 20,000# while the trailer weighs 60,000#
To put that in perspective your Astro should be able to tow a trailer that weighs 15,000# you're asking it to tow about it's own weight..
You are asking to get somebody killed.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I agree.
Frenchy, that's irresponsible. Somebody might actually take you seriously if they did not know any better.I own a Class 8 truck and have been driving them off and on since 1973.There is no legitimate comparison between a tractor/semitrailer rig and a passenger vehicle towing anything.Weight distribution, proportional braking, suspension, all different.I'm happy for you and everyone around you that you have met with success thus far. A less skillful or lucky driver in the same rig may not.For a better analogy, we do not design the structural strength of houses for ordinary circumstances, but for that one day out of five years when the wind really does exceed 80 mph. And we don't do it just for the homeowner's benefit, but for the safety of the entire neighborhood.So maybe you could build a cheaper house that would stand up under most circumstances, but it doesn't mean you should.Likewise, just because you might be able to pull a CAT 430 backhoe with a 1-ton Chevy or Dodge duallly , it doesn't mean you should. The suspension and brakes are OK right up until the point where someone's teenage daughter on her cell phone pulls a stupid move in front of you. You swerve to avoid her,because you know you can't stop, and kill the folks in the next lane who had nothing to do with anything.My point is that a class 8 truck properly loaded to the legal maximum will conform to certain stopping distances that are actually regulated by the FMCSA. They perform astonishingly well. That's what they're designed to do. An overloaded pickup with an improperly configured trailer is not designed to perform that well, and it won't. You don't need much to go wrong to initiate an unfortunate chain of events.I spend part of my life pulling an end-dump. You would not believe how fast it will stop at 71,000 pounds gross. Faster than most unloaded pickups, I assure you. I know this because I do not run them over when they cut in front of me and then realize too late what was the reason I was slowing down for and slam on their brakes, thus using up all the space I was originally planning on using to stop.Those load ratings are there for a reason. Those ratings are predicated upon keeping the vehicle in good repair. So if the vehicle is not overloaded and it is not towing straight, true, and smooth, something is wrong.It may be as simple as the road surface. One of the problems I see small vehicles encounter is the result of dissimilarity in width.As Class 7 and Class 8 trucks operate on asphalt highways, the weight of the trucks displaces the asphalt, resulting in grooves in the road. Those grooves are about 8' apart more or less. The width of a semi.When a passenger car or small pickup operates on the same road, this narrower vehicle will pick up one groove, then the other, resulting in an unpredictable wandering.If you are towing a trailer and you are within the performance specifications of that combination, the result can be truly unnerving. The hitch that the OP mentioned might help, and I have no problem with that.But if you have exceeded that vehicle's rated ability for any reason (bad shocks, bad tires, worn springs, loose steering, overloaded, inexperienced driver) the result can be uncontrollable. Particularly if there are mitigating factors like rain, wind, or inattentive drivers nearby.Again, those ratings are there for a reason and there is no excuse to exceed them.
catskinner,
Back up the horse there buddy. You're preachin' to the choir..
The question is can a Astro van tow a typical tandem axle trailer safely and the answer is yes, that or Chevy is lying on their ratings..
I could do so legally with my S10 or wouldn't have done it.. you don't need a 3/4 ton diesel pickup to tow a trailer. you need the trailer to be right you need the tow vehicle to be right and you need the skill required..
Can you do it, yes! should you do it? Well, that's a whole 'nuther story..
<<catskinner, Back up the horse there buddy. You're preachin' to the choir.. >><G> <<Can you do it, yes! should you do it? Well, that's a whole 'nuther story..>>And that's the truth. <G>
" The question is can a Astro van tow a typical tandem axle trailer safely and the answer is yes, that or Chevy is lying on their ratings."But your statement was that it can handle a 15K trailer as though you were recommending it.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin.
I think either my explanation was lacking, your reading comprehension was lacking or a combination of the two.. (how's that for tact?)
I was merely pointing out the differance between public perception and actual physics.
I forget which company advertizes their pickup as being capable of towing 10,000 pounds. That doesn't mean the pickup weighs 10,000 pounds, simply that that one is set up to be capable of towing 10,000 pounds.. Pretty sure they couldn't claim it if it wasn't true. Remembering very little about the commerical but I'm reasonably certain that we're probably talking about around a 5000# pickup
You really need to spend a little time reading the fine print about load capaicity at various dealers.. (shows how dated I am, most would simply go on manufacures web sites and find out the details.)...
Can a 5000# Astro Van properly set up haul 5000#? yeh! do you need a 3/4 ton diesel pickup to pull a trailer? No! I'd love to go into a detailed discussion of the physics of trailers, but apparently the OP found a solution that he's satisfied with. (load equalizing hitch)
in post 24 you said, "your Astro should be able to tow a trailer that weighs 15,000#"and now you are reminding folks that a Full size Chevy PU needs to be specially equipped to handle ten grand!So I don't think it is my reading comprehension tht is at fault here.
You've done good at clarifying tho.We had aa similar discussion a year or two ago when somebdoy asked about towing up over the western mountains. You made some fairly extravagant claims there too. I cconceded tht with all your superior skills and driving experience, it might be possible for you to regularly do what you were doing, but that to recommend tht somebody else try the same is foolish and likely to get somebody hurt.So keep in mind when you post that there are hundreds of people reading what you write here and not one in a hundred can tow what you can with typiccal equipment.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin,
That's the trouble with the internet.. if you spell all the details out carefully nobody will take the time to read it.. (Plus for someone like me with dyslexia typing it, correcting it and checking it can take forever)
If you leave anything off somebody is sure to attack you for that.
Damned if you do, Damned if you don't .
I didn't get the impression you left something off.Either you added a one to the five thousand to make it read fifteen thousand or you were exaggerating again.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Well, that's nice to know. But, a semi tractor probably carries at least 30 - 40% of the weight of the trailer, since the wheels on most trailers are towards the back. And I'm sure they are engineered to tow that much weight.
With my Astro, which has a gvwr of 6100 lbs., and a towing capacity of 5000 lbs., I am not looking to tow more than it is rated. I just want to help control the slight amount of sway so that I can tow safely.
From other information that I have found, my problem is probably due to the unloading of weight on the front wheels. The WD hitch should help/take care of this problem. And the built-in sway control of this hitch should help as well. I will let you know as I am planning on installing the hitch tomorrow and will test it out on the highway later this week.
Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
Bryan Klakamp.
No equilizer hitch will allow the trailer to be safer when it's tail heavy. Please don't attempt it.. simply shift something heavy towards the nose..
Be aware that an equalizer can cause problems as well. As load is transfered off the rear axle and towards the front axle you will increase understeer.. what the stock car boys refer to as pushing. In the rain that can cause you to go straight when you are turning the wheels, say on a slick rain coated highway.
I've even seen it where someone using a too long a cheater pipe pulled up too many links of the chain and actaully unloaded the rear wheels. causing the tail end of the tow vehicle to oversteer, what the stock car boys call loose..
It sounds like I'm anti load equalizer, I'm not.. they are a tool like anything else. Used properly they can help. Used improperly they will cause other issues.. read the manual that comes with it carefully..
Frenchy, I appreciate that most recent discourse from you for two reasons.1) I was about to blast you for the same reason as Piffin -- your original post did read a little odd for an intelligent guy with a lifetime of experience around equipment, trucks, trailers, airplanes, and all things that go fast and sometimes squish people. It was worth the time you took for clarification.2) You are so right on the money about the importance of maintaining directional stability at both ends of a vehicle. Too many times by the time a driver realizes something has gone wrong, there is no opportunity to correct, and no second chance.Nature (physics) has no personal affection, only consequences.I have some lasting visual memories of pickups towing RVs right up until the time they wasn't anymore. One of them I was first on scene, nobody was injured, put the pickup was on its side, and the content of the RV was spread across three lanes of traffic. The point is, they didn't hit anything, they just went unstable.The other one, same cause, I don't think anyone survived.
Catskinner,
Yeh I am constantly amazed at the number of people who want to haul a 20,000 pound telehandler with their pickup. I carefully explain that the telehandler is 20,000 pounds which is within the capabilites of some one ton duallys but when you add the weight of the trailer and misc. equipment you massively exceed it's rated amount..
I know I've lost sales because of that.. they want to hear, sure you can tow that Lull with your truck..
I designed and manufactured a trailer for a while. Extremely light and extremely well designed. yet I couldn't keep one of my early customers from loading his tractor in it at the tail end and towing it to the dealer for service.. the rollover hoop prevented it from going all the way in so he had about 7000 pounds on the tail end of a 28 foot trailer.. the load equalizers wouldn't keep it from swaying and he rolled the trailer and the 3/4 ton heavy dity suburban he used to tow..
Nobody heard about his misloading but they heard one of my trailers tipped over and the market was dead..
So here's the finished product:
Installed the hitch this morning. According to manufacturer's directions.
The van was lowered almost exactly 3/8" on both the front and the rear. Therefore, I believe I did it correctly.
The first attempt resulted in the front of the van remaining the same and the back of the van being lowered by 7/8 of an inch.
I measured the van with the hitch I had been using, and the front of the van raised 1/2", and the rear lowered 1 3/8". A total change of 1 7/8". That was probably a lot of my problem.
Took it out on the interstate, and only had sideways push, that is, the whole unit moved sideways with vehicles passing me. No noticeable sway.
Also, the trailer sits a little higher in the front now, by less than 1". It had been lower in the front with the old hitch. I realize that may put a little more weight on the tongue from the start. But, that is better than not having enough weight. Will just have to watch that I don't overload my tow vehicle.
I did have my 6 x 14 loaded one time too heavy in the rear, and did I get some sway. I won't do that again.
Hope this information helps.
Bryan
"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
Glad it worked out for you......are you ready for this......Did you cross your safety chains? Do you have trailer breaks? If so, will the emergency break teather engage when the trailer comes off the hitch or when it comes loose from the tow vehicle?You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
No, did not cross the safety chains. Is there a good reason for donig that?
Yes, I have trailer brakes - on all four wheels. And I have a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller.
And, yes, the emergency brake tether will engage the brakes if the trailer comes loose from the vehicle. That is, as long as the receiver stays attached to the van.
Bryan
"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
Edited 7/23/2007 7:15 pm ET by BryanKlakamp
The brake tether and chains should be hooked to the vehicle. The reciever prt that is welded as part of the tow rig works fine.
If you have your snap loops only on the ball end of the slide in hith, you have a problem if the pin breaks or goes missing.Two reasons for crossing the chains under the tongue.
If the hitch fails, the tongue sits in a craddle of crossed arms so it is less likely to dig into the road and flip the trailer, hauling you around with it.
Also, you have modestly more control over the trailer with less snapping back and forth when the chaimns are crossed.I have experienced three failed hitch situations in my life. All at slow speed with no injuries or major property damage, other than the stains to my underwear....Far better not to have it happen
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
The safety chains should be crossed to cradle the trailer tongue if it comes off hitch.
There is a debate on the emergency cable. I believe it should only engage if the trailer starts down the road on its own. Some people think it should engage if the hitch comes off and is being cradled. I would think locking up the trailer brakes at this point would not be good. Also the cable should be attached to bumper...not the hitch.
Tip: When driving down the road you may from time to time feel trailer sway. Your instinct may be to hit the tow vehicle brakes. This will only make matters worse. You should actually apply trailer breaks by hand. This will stop the sway.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Thanks to all who have helped in this discussion.
I've learned some new things, as well as having been reminded of some things I already knew.
Hopefully this thread will be of assistance to someone else in the future.
Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
<<But, a semi tractor probably carries at least 30 - 40% of the weight of the trailer, since the wheels on most trailers are towards the back. And I'm sure they are engineered to tow that much weight.>>Good guess.12,000 on the steer axle, 34,000# on the drivers, 34,000# on the trailer tandem = 80,000#
"To put that in perspective your Astro should be able to tow a trailer that weighs 15,000# you're asking it to tow about it's own weight.."
Thanks for the info, Frenchy! After thinking this over for awhile, I ordered a 15K GVWR trailer today. Planning on going into the delivery business with my Astro!!!
Should get great gas mileage!
;-)
"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
Edited 7/27/2007 6:20 pm ET by BryanKlakamp
BryanKlakamp,
Read it more carefully. I was simply trying to refute those who insist that the only way to pull a tandem trailer is with a larger truck..
You did see my smiley at the bottom, didn't you?
I understood what you were saying, but was thinking about what Piffin had said earlier. Just wanted to lighten up this discussion.
Also, towed my trailer further today than previously since I put the new hitch on this past Monday. Really made a difference. When I'm on the straight, I could take my hand off the wheel, and it just goes straight. Of course, I am not going to do that. It just takes away that white-knuckle grip.
Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
BryanKLaKamp,
I'm sorry I didn't,
BryanKlakamp,
They are at best a lousy bandaide.
Look in your trailer. How much of the weight is ahead of the trailer axles? How much behind? if more than 55% OF THE WEIGHT ISN'T AHEAD OF THE AXLES (towards the hitch) THEN NO MATTER WHAT YOUR TRAILER WILL SWAY!
I'm sorry but that's the case..
You could also have an issue of the trailer axles being out of alignment.
Before you spend any real money do this simple test. Take a string and run it right along side the tires,, just barely kissing them. Make a simple stand to hold the ends so the string crosses the tires in the middle. Run the string out past the hitch and measure the distance from the string to the center of the hitch. The distance to both side strings should be the same.. If not then you might need to align the axles.
Check tire pressures.. they should be at the max rated for the tires.. all four tires should be the same size and brand.
Many people think that if you balance your trailer 50/50 front/back, you will have no troubles. This can be a dangerous way to travel. Towing vehicle, weight of trailer have lots to do with traveling safe too. be careful out there.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
After one time of having too much weight in the back of the trailer (6 x 14 single-axle) I learned to load better. I most always had more weight on the tongue, probably too much at times.
This trailer being larger and my van being the size it is, as well as the mushy suspension they put on them, even though I have done some things to improve it, adds to the sway factor.
Over at rv.net there are a number of trailer owners who pull large travel trailers with their Astro or Safari. And they have no trouble as long as they load it properly and use a weight distribution hitch and sway control.
Now I have to install the Equal-i-zer hitch that I received today from rvwholesalers. With the added extras, it will cost less than $500. I will try to let you know how it turns out.
Thanks, Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
It is hard to judge just how much you weight there is on a trailer tongue, but if the trailer is lifting up the back of your car after it is loaded, then you are definitely going to be in trouble when towing it... I probably always put just a little too much weight on the tongue. I have always wished that someone would make a trailer with a built in strain gauge in the tongue that would have a small digital readout of the tongue weight.
Edited 7/20/2007 11:37 pm ET by CaseyR
Bryan, I know this isn't an answer to the question you asked, but I think it's important to clarify some of the general responses you've received thus far. Some of the cavalier attitudes displayed on this topic are appalling.
If you are getting any sway at all, something is wrong.
Any time you are towing a trailer on a public road you are assuming a higher degree of responsibility for your own safety and the safety of other motorists. It is critical that anyone pulling a trailer educate themselves on the safety considerations if for no other reason than the protection of innocent life.
When a trailer gets away from you in any sized vehicle, the results can and often are disastrous.
Most of the advice you have received thus far is at least partially correct, but several key pieces of the puzzle have been left out.
Every vehicle designed for towing has a Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating. There are several compelling reasons to not ever exceed that rating. So the first step is to check the GCVWR. Make sure the combined weight of the tow vehicle, contents, passengers, and loaded trailer do not exceed this value.
Secondly, every vehicle designed for towing has a rear axle weight rating, and a rating for the vertical load (tongue weight) on the hitch.
This is about staying within a set of design parameters for your suspension, and your ability to maintain directional stability as you brake, steer, and corner under a variety of circumstances.
As for trailer loading, assuming that the trailer GVW does not exceed the towing vehicles GCVWR, then the right way to set up your load is for 10% to 15% of the total weight of the trailer to be on the tongue, or hitch.
So if your trailer weighs 4,500#, your tongue should weigh between 450 and 675 pounds. Discard the idea about how much weight is ahead of or behind the trailer axle, although this can work under certain circumstances, you can also get yourself in a world of trouble that way.
Now, go back and look at the rear axle rating. With that tongue weight added, are you still within spec?
If so, asuming your trailer is not bent or tire pressures are way off, the trailer should tow with no trouble. If you still are having problems with sway, look at the suspension (all 4 corners) on the tow vehicle, front end alignment, and tire condition.
I've pulled heavy equipment, modular homes, and all kinds of junk from stucco mixers to houses, and I've stopped to help a few folks who didn't know all this stuff and flipped their truck, so this is all the voice of experience.
Here are a couple of pictures of my setup and the Equal-i-zer hitch:
Thanks, Bryan
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"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
Edited 7/24/2007 10:23 pm ET by BryanKlakamp
Edited 7/24/2007 10:24 pm ET by BryanKlakamp
Edited 7/24/2007 10:24 pm ET by BryanKlakamp
Edited 7/24/2007 10:26 pm ET by BryanKlakamp
Mine is a fourteen footer that looks almost identical. Thule name on it.I have a 3/4 ton van that I use to move it around site with, but would not want to tow on the road with ( I have tried it) .It would not be hard at all to overload that Astro with much stuff in that rig. you have about a ton just in the trailer empty.Be careful out there. And budget for more repairs on the Astro. Working it at the limit will wear stuff out faster. Tranny and brakes especially.
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Mine is also a fourteen footer plus the wedge nose. Just a little over 16' in the middle. It is an Interstate. Right around $5K.
I was going to get a 12' with a wedge nose, but after thinking about it, it would be difficult to strap 12' drywall to the wall since the inside measurement would not be 12' in length. And I was told that it is about 100 lbs. additional per foot added.
I use my trailer to move tools and materials to the job site. I will not load it with everything I own and pull it around all the time. I carry my basic tools with me in my Astro. Even then I have the middle seat in the van as I haul my 8 y.o. and 12 y.o. to day care in the mornings and pick them up a couple of nights a week.
Since adding the W.D. hitch, it pulls much nicer. No sway, and steering is better.
Bryan
"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City
Edited 7/25/2007 10:31 pm ET by BryanKlakamp
The trailer weighs about 2400 lbs. empty. So, I can only put about 2600 lbs. in it. That's just a little more than what I could put in my 6 x 14 single axle.
What it gains me is: (1) Safety - I now have brakes. (2) No chance to overload the trailer because I have two axles and my Astro is only rated to pull 5000 lbs. (3) It is about 6'8" inside floor-to-ceiling. No more hitting my head getting in and out. (Love that since I have no hair on top. No more questions: What did you hit your head on today?)
Also, I live in NW Ohio. I think there may only be a couple of flatter terrains in the country than here. Our hills are the interstate overpasses. And, I think I can get up and over those easy enough.
Also, I don't pull it all the time. Just to move tools and materials back and forth to the job site. If I need a job site trailer, I will leave my 6 x 14 there, since it is about 6 - 7 years old.
Bryan"Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."
Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City