Est. cost to repair 90 yr old windows?
Hi all —
I posted a while back asking for advice on repairing six 90-yr-old windows in a one-room school/meetinghouse we’re looking to purchase. The windows are in good condition, except the cords were cut, they were sealed shut with caulk and then painted.
What would a going rate be for repairing the windows? The builders in our area are so backed up they can’t get out to give us an estimate until after we need to respond to the seller. I appreciate any insights! Thanks —
(and, as we restore the building, would anyone be interested in the pictures?)
Lynne
Replies
I'd have a really hard time giving a fixed price for windows that are sealed shut. I've done ones that were very easy to get moving again, and others that took hours to free.
Replacing to cords once the sashes are free is pretty straight forward- I'd figure no more than 1 hour per window, as long as the sash weights are still in their pockets.
This would be a T&M project, at least for the first couple of windows. Once I had a handle on how much work is involved, I'd be willing to give a price.
Thanks, Shep! I figured about 3 hours per window at our carpenter's going rate....... just because we don't know what we don't know.....
would anyone be interested in the pictures?
Very much so.
Where is your location? Also, a handyman type guy would be who you want to do this type work, or an actual glazier from a glass and mirror shop.
The building is in West Virginia, near the Maryland border. It stopped being used as a school in the mid-50s, was vacant for 20 years, and has been a residence for a singleton for the last 30 years. One window has not been sealed shut, and it opened easily (needed to be propped open) so I'm hoping the others are about the same.
I'll post some pictures soon.
Lynne
Are the pully's and weights still around?
How big are the windows?
Will they need to be reglazed?
Where are you located?
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
The windows are in good condition, except the cords were cut, they were sealed shut with caulk and then painted.
What would a going rate be for repairing the windows?
the 'going rate' would be what you'll have to pay someone to deal with the window's issues - expect to pay 'time and materials' -
two years ago I did a window job for our local library - 1916 original windows -
I removed and re-installed 8 'small' double hungs (app 42" tall X 32" wide rough opening) 6 over 6 sash, 4 'medium' double hungs - (72" tall X 32" wide RO), and two 'large' double hungs (72" tall X 48" wide RO) -
these had hever been abused, but were missing some cords and filthy with coal dust - some had 'minor' maintenance issues -
I rented painters scaffolding to achieve access -
I pulled the inside stops carefully such that they could be reused, removed the lower sash, pried out the center stop (not carefully - I made new ones), and removed the upper sash, leaving the modern storm sash in place - I removed the weight access panel, but left the weights/cords pretty much in place for the time being -
I vaccuumed the opening, pulled nails/tacks/etc, scraped tape off the casing/frame, washed the frame using buckets and scrub brushes and rags, a light, new coat of shellac on the finished parts of the frame, and a coat of boiled linseed oil on the sash track -
the sash were labeled, I took them to the shop, washed them with soapy water/scrub brush/hose, allowed them to dry - I took each sash onto the work bench, and scraped/wired brushed/saneded/whatever it took to make the frame smooth -
the glazing compound was in servicible shape except for a maybe a half dozen places where I R&R with new compound -
I then sealed any raw wood with boiled linseed oil, allowed that to dry and took them to the painter - he charged $840 to paint the sash - enamel inside, latex outside (I think...it was two different paints, I'm sure) - seemed a bit dear, but at least I didn't have to do it -
I cleaned up/removed nails/shellaced the stops in the shop -
after the sash had dried, I waxed the sliding area with past wax and took them back to the building -
where I set up and waxed the frames, lubricated the pulleys, cut the knot off the old cord, taped the new cord to the old and pulled the new cord into position, attached to the weights, knotted and attached to the window, installed the upper sash, installed the stop, installed the lower sash, installed the inner stop, rinse and repeat 14 times -
so.... it's a big deal to do it right -
but the windows are lovely and function beautifully - and are original - and will not lose seal and fog and will go another 90 years easily -
I did my part as voluntary community service, and didn't keep track of hours (I didn't want to know) but 'seat of my pants', probably $2000 for my part if I were charging -
good luck, and I look forward to your pictures -
This is the kind of job that is relatively easy to do yourself, and if you are restoring an older house it is a skill that you will need, as older windows with sash cords will always need some maitenance.
There are plenty of articles online on how to repair them - the archives here have some good posts, too.
Here's a link to a good book on the subject http://shopping.yahoo.com/p:Working%20Windows%3A%20A%20Guide%20to%20the%20Repair%20and%20Restoration%20of%20Wood%20Windows:3001103912;_ylc=X3oDMTB1c21tcDhkBF9TAzk2NjMyOTA3BHNlYwNmZWVkBHNsawNib29rcw--
Best advice, if you have the money: higher a good window restorer to fix them and show you how.