I’m planing to build a set of kitchen cabinets and want to use “full inset” cabinet doors ie flush with the face frame when closed. Question is can I use euro style hinges for this application, thanks, Dennis
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Go to Blum's website, and download their hinge info. All is explained there.
Once you have digested all that is there, you can change your screen name.
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
Why would he want to change his name? stinky
Yes, they work very well for this application. But not with face frame cabinets. Must be Euro style cabs.
(Gene - I think the name fits. The fact that he picked it for this forum proves it to be true)
actually they will work with face frame cabinets and inset doors. Just use a 120* hinge with about a 20 1/2mm set back to center bore(DBE), and a 18mm hinge plate.
This is one way, among others.
Ok, here's another. A face frame flush face frame with a 1/4" caulk bead detail that is applied after: use a 3/8"(1/2 overlay) hinge and a 18mm hinge plate. Adjust the hinge bore(DBE) to accomodate the reveal/gap.
This is for Blum 120*plus thick door(7/8") hinges
Cup-type hinges are used with faceframes and inset doors, rather routinely.
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If the OP comes back and has changed his screen name to Einstein or something, maybe he will give you his old name. ;-)
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
I'm not much of a dimwit. I think nimrod fits much better.
The thing that bugs me most about euro hinges on face frames is that they stick so far into the cabinet and look so big and bulky.
I think a much more elegant solution would be to use some sort of pivot or knife hinge at the top and bottom of the doort. It may take more setup and work but IMHO looks a lot cleaner and appealing
If you hold the carcase flush with the inside of the face frame, then you can use regular inset door hinges.
Mike, if I were building that way, I might prefer to have the cab built with the FF 3mm proud of the inside face of carcase, and then use a 3mm plate for the hinge.
A lapped joint there, IMHO, is more forgiving, when finishing out and viewing, than one that is flush.
As always, fixturing or doing something with biscuits or Dominos, can aid in assembly to get the 3mm offset right.
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
Good point Gene. I aim for a 1/64" to 1/32" overlap, which is easily accomodated by standard hinges, and keeps fabrication and assembly very simple--I can gauge the overhang with a fingertip and gun-nail the face frame to the box. But there are always better ways to do things.