We are just beginning the thought process and self-education process for building a timberframe house in a few years, probably in the PNW. We could use some suggestions from those how have been down this path before us. Once we have located our site, how do we go about finding the right timberframe-savvy architect? Timberframers? Contractors? Also, I’m tempted to use one of the bigger, well-respected companies which have built many houses, but the ones I’m considering are located in other parts of the country. How much does shipping across the country add to the cost? Might I be better off with a local timberframe comapny, even if smaller?
Thanks for any words of wisdom.
Replies
Check out the Timber Framers Guild.
Have someone in the PacNW do it, for sure.
There are lots of companies.
http://twodogtimberworks.com/ is one.
Search this site for posts from a guy called Frenchy. He's building a huge timber frame job all by himself.
-- J.S.
Rosefolly,
That's kinda like asking which is the best dress to buy.. It really depends on what you want the dress er, house to do..
Are you interested in lowest cost, best value, or something else like style or name brand?
Ted Benson is the leading proponant of timberframes and since he's written so many books on the subject probably the best known..
However due to shipping and many other factors his homes would be dramatically more expensive than most.. Against that he has a great resaleablity..
At the other end of the spectrum you'll find local timberframers who do a house a year or so.. They buy local timbers or recycle old timbers (a better deal not because they are cheaper but because dried they don't move around the way green timbers do and the joints remain tight while a green timber home has it's joints open right up) In addition all of the checking etc. is already done and you can position timbers in their best finished lite rather than assemble and hope some ugly check doesn't ruin the looks for you)
Look at his work and find out how long his workers have been working for him.. If he trains new guys on every job you don't want him.. You want to look at other homes he's done and expect yours to be similar quality.
Finally you might consider doing it yourself.. It's not only possible but really really cheap!
You may not have to do all the work your self.. Hire a local guy and pay a decnt wage and you'll be amazed at the number of guys wanting to build a timberframe or help you build a timberframe..
the design is soooooooo easy!
Second grade math stuff! Build it stronger than it needs to be because if you don't it will just look flimsy.. There are a few books on the subject. Ted Benson's first is a good source and Jack Sorborn wrote a nice one.. there are several others as well.
If you are considering doing it yourself buy tools second hand and when you finish with them you can sell them for about what they cost you.. That way you can use the right tool for the right job and have an easy time of it without breaking the bank..
Just in case you think you can't possibly do this, please be aware that I flinked wood shop the only time I took it and if you search the archieves you'll see that my home has recieved a great deal of praise... The gimmick is buying the right tools!
I love the subject and will bore you to pieces if you give me a half a chance.. let's talk about timberframes, post and beams, hybreds and costs.. I'll gladly share with you..
PS There are panels and plumbing and wiring and etc. so you really need to learn a great deal even if you intend to have someone else do all the work.. You need to be informed as to costs and benefits from someone who's not trying to sell you anything..
Joe and Jesse, thanks for the links. I'm following up them up. And John thanks to you too. You see he showed up on his own.
Frenchy, good questions. While I know what I want this house to look like when it is done, I don't want to build it myself. I love garden work, but don't enjoy even simple household repairs. And while my husband has excellent skills, I don't think this is a good DIY job unless both partners embrace it.
As for what I want, it is to be a house of great beauty and lasting endurance. It should be moderate in size (around 2000sf), and mostly one level with lots of soaring spaces and windows, though I do want a generous library and a bunk room for visitors on an open loft. I like lots of covered porch area for viewing the garden, and the generous use of stone, tile and wood. I love the idea that my house could be inhabited by my descendants 100 years from now, or 200, if they so chose. You can't say that about most houses these days. Our present house was built in 1941, and when we remodeled it in 2000, we practically had to rebuild it, including an entire new foundation.
I'm pleased to hear that you think I can get what I want from local timberframers, and also that they might actually be less expensive. I admire pictures I've seen of many of Tedd Benson's houses, but I was concerned about the distance, and what that would do to cost. Given the weight of timber, I would guess, a lot. I did enjoy his two books very much.
Notchman, I will definitely visit the Timberline Lodge. We are planning a trip up through that area next spring. We plan to drive all over western Oregon and Washington, looking for just the right place to live. I fell in love with the Great Lodges when I saw my first one, at Grand Canyon. Just last month I visited a couple of timberframe buildings, an old barn converted to a house by a high school friend, and the Foxburg Inn on the Allegheny River in western Pennsylvania.
Anyone, do you think it is difficult to find an architect who is familiar with designing with timberframing in mind? And in earthquake country as well? I suppose I am looking for either referrals or just what questions to ask.
Rosefolly
The PNW from BC to mid-Northern California is all high seismic (and many locales with high wind considerations) and the architects and engineers and builders are, for the most part, all familiar with the structural requirements.
Timberframes, to be constructed to meet structural requirements, are most cost-effectively designed by someone familiar with them.
The traditional European and Asian frames, despite their large components, do have some weak areas which must be addressed by engineering/architectural design to meet code out here.
For your own future home, you've described a modest and sensible design that should be developed at reasonable cost.
Rosefolly,
You can still DIY even if you and your husband don't want to do the work..
I know it sounds wierd but the method that I've seen successully employed takes advantage of others strengths while providing your input into what is really called for..
I can't remember the name of the book I first read about this technique ( over 30 years ago and probably well out of print) Basically start by drawing ballons..
This is the bathroom, this is the bedroom, this is the etc.......
Now decide where you want each room in relation to another room and the views..
For example is it more important to you that the bedroom gets the best view oe the Kitchen?
Ok once you've done that now decide how big you want each area.. This is fun, because you get to measure everything.. Don't worry about being real accurite. plus or minus a foot is plenty close enough..
Decide which rooms in your house seem the right size for you and make note of thir size.
Is your bathroom too small? (or any room say a closet or kitchen or whatever)
Go find a bathroom that is the size you like and measure it. just length and width. carry one of those ultra max tape measures in your purse (25 ft is plenty long enough) while you decide what you really want.. (they allow you to stick it out over 12 feet without someone holding the other end..) longer then that just lay it out on the floor and get close.
Now comes a little kitchen table time..
Go to a stationary store and buy some of that paper with the squares on it.. figure each square is a foot. Cut out the required number of squares for each room. A 12' x 18' room will be 12 squares by 18 squares. Next, take that ballon drawing that you made and lay each set of squares according to your ballon drawing.. you now have a rough outline of your new home..
It won't fit perfectly but you can do some trading.. make this room a little bigger and that hallway a little more narrow.. whatever! Move things around for good traffic flow or nice views.
if you have the attention to details that is called for you can go right from that to your home plans.. if not go to an architect and show him your "plans and have him draw them up.. Take a couple of dozen pictures from various views on your lot both what you will see from the inside and from the outside back far enough so that he can get a decent perspective.
You've just saved thousands of dollars!
You see an architect, will often need to spend a lot of man hours getting just that sort of information out of you while you ponder and wonder and go home confused..
A decent architect will mention things that you may have omitted and it would help if you decide that you want central A/C but not a central vaccum. etc.. make your budget trade offs now so that you don't get over budget later..
Decide on what size windows you want before you go. Andersen and others will send you catalogs or you can do as I did which was to go to the local big box store and get quotes.. Hmmm that size needs to be custom but if I get that one I can save,......
Front windows should really have the best views and thus be the largest but remember. large means no (for all practical purposes) insulation.. and that means that you will use more energy heating and cooling because of those larger windows. Plus large windows cost more for drapes and curtains etc..
You need to understand that there is a per sq. ft. cost of a house and that per sq. ft. goes up dramatically when you want the things you are asking for..
Stone, tile and wood adds to the cost by many factors.. I would guess without knowing anything that you will be spending over $200.00 per sq ft. for the house you are decribing.. 2000 sq. ft. x $200 means the building will be in the neighborhood of $400,000 if you cut most of the corners that can be cut..
A basic tract house could be built for around $100 a sq. ft. using cheap siding and cutting every corner possible..
The biggest single cost will be for labor.. I've seen homeowners require $28.00 an hour carpenters sweep up debris every day.. they do and the cost of the house went up accordingly.. If you come and do that work you save not only that $28.00 per hour but also the cost of insurance and taxes and etc.. Anotherwords you can get a $40.00 an hour job just by working for an hour cleaning up after everybody while you check out their workmanship and progress.
Rosefolly:
I'm 1/2 through mine right now and have asked some questions to this group along the way.
I would find an architect that understands timberframing and has a passion for it. I found mine via a reference from one of the TF suppliers. The big TF suppliers usually have architects on staff but i did not go that way as it afforded me some flexability -- for example i bought the structural TF components from the TF company but bought some of the decorative stuff -- like beams on the porch which didn't need to be cut on a fancy C&C machine -- i bought straight from the mill. Timbers in the basement i cut off my property (oak and walnut). 8x8x12 walnut cants are really heavy!
Also you need to decide how much of a TF home you want. Originally i wanted an complete TF + use SIP panels. Once the budgeting process was over i ended up with a 'hybrid' (great room, porches) and no SIP panels.
My framers assembed the TF with no issue but they were also very willing to do whatever it takes. If you decide to use SIPs, you probably want to get someone that has some experience in this area.
Also check with your local building code on their requirements relative to engineering drawings. Even though i live in South Carolina the plans examiner wanted some proof that someone had done some calculations to show that the TF structure would support itself + roof... I didn't have to have an engineering seal but i did send him calculations from the TF company. <-- most places i think do *not* require this though.
The house is turning out great but it is no small project and the TF stuff i did myself was sort of a pain as everything is so xxxx heavy. But you can't beat the look.
I built my own timberframe/log/post and beam hybrid....took me ten years....mostly because, while building it, I was doing construction for others...some of that being timberframe, but, unfortunately, not all.
Like Frenchy, I can ramble on endlessly about Timberframes and the kind of solidity and beauty they add to a home.
But, to ratchet up your enthusiasm, I suggest you make a visit to Timberline Lodge on the flanks of Mount Hood in the North Cascades of Oregon. It's a very classic example of the European style and was built during the Great Depression by CCC crews and imported Italian stonemasons.
Timberframes really compliment what has developed as the "Northwest Style" of Architecture and Finehomebuilding Magazine has featured several over the years that were successfully designed to blend with the landscape rather than being some overly large display of one's neighborhood brinksmanship.
I'm in the PNW (SW Oregon Coast) and one of the finest local timberframes I've seen was built a couple of years ago locally for a retired Dentist.
The frame itself (Old Growth Doug Fir....I know because I sawed a lot of the Timbers) was cut out off site by a log building firm in Bend, Oregon and the actual construction was done locally by a fellow local contractor who does first class work.
Unless you want a bunch of hand-hewn stuff like mine, I suggest you 1. find an architect familiar with the craft; 2 find a local builder with some experience in quality construction; 3. job the frame out to a company like my Dentist friend did.
email me through this forum and I'll give some more specifics.