Before I button things up, just want to check to make sure I did this right. I built a built-in bookcase over a wall with an outlet in it, and extended the outlet into the baseboard of the bookcase. It’s an old house, mostly wired with metal-jacketed cable, with 2 wires.
I covered the old outlet with a solid metal cover plate that I drilled a hole in for the new cable to come out. I filed the hole down and wrapped the edge with electrical tape. I used a new length of the metal-jacketed cable, 3-wire, connected white to white, black to black with wire caps and the ground to the cable clamp at the back of the original outlet.
At the new outlet, I connected black to brass, white to silver and the ground wire to the ground screw. It works, but electrical work I usually leave to others. Is this the correct way to do this? Any comments greatly appreciated.
Rick
Replies
For the most part, it sounds good.
A couple of points. Legally, you can't bury junction boxes that have made-up connections in them. So, legally, you need access to the original box. An access cover in the back of the bookcase, a small removable panel, etc. the box can indeed be covered by the new metal plate...yu just need to be able to somehow access that metal plate.
Did you simply pass the new insulated wire through the metal cover plate with the filed-down hole, or was their an actual ring that was screwed through the hole in the cover plate, and the metal jacket extension is secured to that ring? You just want to make sure that the insulation on the wire can't chafe against the inside of the hole in the cover plate.
The wire color to screw color connections all sound good. Wrap the wires around the screws in a clockwise fashion, so that when you torque the screw down, the wire gets wrapped around the screw vs unwrapped.
Good job using screw terminals and not push-in connections on the back.
The gauge of the added wire should have matched the gauge of the original wire.
Congrats!
Thanks for the quick reply. Was not aware of the access issue, but should have realized that after noting all the junction boxes in the house are exposed. The original outlet was in the baseboard also, so it sounds like the access "panel" will have to be the baseboard of the new bookcase. It's ~10" deep. Is that too far away to be considered an access panel?
One of the reasons I went with the metal cable was to eliminate my concerns about wires rubbing on the hole in the cover plate. The metal cable is within the hole in the face plate, however, I did see some clamps that looked like they were made for this sort of thing. Think I should see if I can make one of those work?
And the wire guage did match.
Thanks again for the reply.
The clamp would be a good idea, it'll secure the jacket to the coveplate.
For access, if baseboard access works, that's great. Other ways I've seen it done are to have a small section of the bottom shelf in the bookcase removable, as a simple drop-in/lift out piece. When books or display items are on the shelving you won't see it. If you need access, remove the books, lift out the panel, and the old box should be right there. It all depends on the design of the bookcase.
I'll get the clamp. Thanks again.
They make single gange cover plates with a knockout in the center. You could have used that with a BX connector for yourcable connection.
You basically accomplished the same thing, less the cable connector, which you are going to add.
Mongo is correct about the access to the j-box (old recpt. box).
I will assume that the new box is going in the bottom rail or toe kick part of the new bookcase. If that is the case, and you are building the bookcase, you could but an access panel in the bottom shelf of the bookcase,or hing the whole shelf to have access to the j-box. Either way you have easy access to both boxes.
If using a purchased bookcase, cut the access panel before you install it, if you can. It will most likely be covered with books, so it won't detract from the appearance.
Dave
I didn't see anything like the single gang coverplate you mentioned. I'm pretty sure I can make the other thing work, and was standing there holding it and the cover plate when I was getting the stuff the other day, mulling over whether I should try it. Now I know.
The access is definitely going to be through the toe kick, presuming screwing that in rather than nailing it would be acceptable. After that, given what I've already done on the bookcase, it might just be easier to run a new wire from the junction box. It's almost directly above the original outlet.
All this for the original wire just an inch or so too short to pull the original outlet out all the way.
Thanks for the comment. I've never used these forums before and the response has been excellent.
Rick
All this for the original wire being an inch so to short...
Sounds like you added the new outlet right on top of the old one?
If that was the case you could have used a box extension ring. Not a plaster ring, but a 1 inch extension. Looks like a regular box without a back in it. Mounts directly on top of the existing box. then a simple wire nut and pigtail wire extension to the device. Access is not required because the box is still a normal device enclosure, just deeper.
If you hit a snag like this in the future, try to find a local electric supply house. the guys behind the counter can help you figure it out, or there is ussualy some electrician in there picking up material.
BTW, welcome to Breaktime.
Dave
Not adding on top of the old one. There just wasn't enough slack in the existing cable to pull it out far enough.
I probably do need to figure out where the electrical supply place is though. I've found the plumbing place, and the local lumberyard is pretty good (although a little slow at times, but heh! whaddya want for a small town?)
Rick