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We are currently on a job with a number of other subs. I keep tripping the breaker with our compressors. I have tried to isolate a circuit and keep it clear, but it is not working.
I would like an extension cord with a Gang Boxd with a circuit breaker on it, so if it trips, I can re-set it within feet and seconds, instead of trapsing down 2 flights of stairs and re-setting the breaker.
Ideas?
Replies
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We try to locate a stand alone box near the Service Panel.
I have a 10-3 extension cord that is 100' with 2 duplex outlets at both the front of the cord and the business end. The front of the cord also has a short (5') male plug. No circuit breaker of GFI. The GFI I have heard is now required by OSHA.
To further isolate the Cord, I have, on occasion, gone to the Panel, backed out the screw on one of the 20amp breakers, pulled all the wires out, and inserted my own 12-2. I run the 12-2 to the first set of duplex outlets. This technique is not particularly kosher, and we remove it if kids, the customer, or an inspector is present anywhere near the Service Panel.
*10-3 100' similar to scooter, but use a modified (so it fits both outlets, AJ'll say it's illegal) stove/dryer plug and thus use either of those 50 or 30 A sources. Probably need to get a 4 prong adapter soon.
*If 15A is enough, Buss makes a fusible (Edison base) receptical that fits in a single gang box. You can install an Edison base circuit breaker in place of the fuse. Should be able to find them at HD or Lowes.
*Randy, On big jobs , I have always found this to be a problem. I have a steel receptacle box all made up with a nipple sticking out the side. You can knock out a hole on the bottom of the service panel and install it. The box has a twist lock 20 or 30 amp receptacle installed (depending on your extension cord and power needs). It takes about 5 minutes to wire into the service box at the beginning of the job and nobody else has cords that can plug into it. End of problem. You can make one of these setups for less than $50. Use the GFCI protection at the box at the business end of your cord. I am not sure exactly what the latest requirement is for GFCI protection, but nobody has complained yet about this setup. Anyway, do what you have to do at the business end, but at least you'll have your own power supply.
*This will probably get me in trouble with people who know more about electricity than I do but....Isn't the 3 prong 220volt cord 2 110 hots and a ground?Don't you need a neutral to make a complete 110 circuit?How do you get the neutral, Art?
*The ground and neutral are the same wire. I only do volunteer work or on my own stuff, so insurance, etc. is not an issue, may be an issue in professional setting -- AJ etc. may be able to address that. The only safety issue is the same as for a dryer (neutral and ground same allowable per old NEC, now changing to 4 wire), and is no problem if the outlet is checked to be sure there is not an open neutral/ground. I even use my setup as an extension cord for 230A welder.
*Randy,I like GLaLonde's approach the best. Commercial spider (or breakout) boxes are available to do everything you need, but at a much higher cost.As far as Art's advice goes, THE GROUND AND THE NEUTRAL ARE NOT THE SAME. The neutral is the current return path, and the ground is a "safety line" through which current will flow only if the metal case of a power tool (or similar) becomes energized. The current will flow through the ground wire to the breaker and trip it, instead of through you & stop your heart.If you use the neutral as the ground, what you are doing is ENERGIZING the metal case of the tool when the tool is on. Muy mala. The connection of the ground to the neutral anywhere but the service entrance is called a "bootleg ground" and is very dangerous.As Art said, in the past, the NEC allowed the neutral to serve the role of the ground--specifically for large 240V appliances like the clothes dryer or oven. This isn't allowed any more (for new installations). This was allowed in the past because the possibility of shock (or worse) from a large appliance is a lot lower than from a power tool at a job site. You're not holding tightly on to a washing machine (at least I hope not) like you do with a drill motor or sawzall. And a large appliance does not get the hard knocks that power tools do, making a short to the case or frame a lot less likely. I question Art's point that just because he does his own work and volunteer work, unsafe wiring like a bootleg ground is O.K. There are the issues of insurance coverage (insurers will refuse to pay claims where grossly incorrect wiring was the cause), and moral responsibility (and possibly legal liability).
*As has been implied by others (by their use of 10-gauge cords), the less voltage drop you have, the fewer amps you pull (for an induction motor as in your compressor). So a long, cheap extension cord can be part of the problem. More likely, the biggest factor is having another load on the same circuit. For that, the ideas of creating a dedicated outlet for yourself makes sense. Instead of using a special plug style near the breaker panel, you could instead mount a single receptacle outlet in a single-gang box, not giving anyone the space to plug into your circuit. Materials cost: about $9. -David
*David, Good thought , but it doesn't work that way....If there is a receptacle available that somebody can use, they will think nothing of yanking your cord out and "temporarily" plugging theirs in! This happens time and time again when there are multiple trades working on the same job. It drives you nuts!
*'never had much luck with compressors on extension cords - either the breaker at the panel or on the compressor itself keeps cutting out. Much better to plug it in close to the panel, and run enough airline to get where you need to go.
*Holey Moley! Using 1/2 a 240 volt line plus a ground for an extenstion cord.You know, I know I am not the brightest bulb about electricity, but Art, shitcan the extension cord, pal, or you'll be volunteering in the hospital.Yikes!
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We are currently on a job with a number of other subs. I keep tripping the breaker with our compressors. I have tried to isolate a circuit and keep it clear, but it is not working.
I would like an extension cord with a Gang Boxd with a circuit breaker on it, so if it trips, I can re-set it within feet and seconds, instead of trapsing down 2 flights of stairs and re-setting the breaker.
Ideas?