Hi All,
I’m looking for advice on installing a exterior door on grade or unlevel concrete.
Here’s the situation:
Chicago back porch was enclosed moons ago. Added exterior door on top of unlevel side walk. Originally door was installed with some concrete (OR cement) under the threshold. This concrete on top of (concrete) side walk never mended and failed.
My question is what to put under the threshold to make the best install posible (for longterm and water tight).
I was considering thinset or hydrualic cement. I’m looking at a 36″ width door and from 0″ to 1.5″ unlevel threshold.
Thanks for ideas,
-Bob
Replies
I did our door with thinset, and it's held up well.
Thanks Dan.
How long has it been?
How thick is the thinset?
-bob
About 10 years. The thinset probably goes to a half inch in spots.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I'm going to be interested in the responses.
Personally, I'd rip a treated 2x4 or 2x6 and set it in caulk, then set the door on top of it, in caulk again. I would do that because I'm pretty adept at the saw and it would be my easiest method of attaining a level sill to start the door installation. There may be much better materials though.
fka (formerly known as) blue
Frankly, the right mortar, properly placed, will last a lot longer than treated wood, and will conform to the irregularities of the slab better.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I don't doubt that Dan, but remember, I offered my solution based on what I do best, which is wood butchering. I don't know what the "right mortar" is. I don't know how to mix it in the proper proportions. I don't know how to get it slopped on there and level without playing with it incessantly for hours and after that, I'm still going to be in need of the caulk LOL! So, my simple solution is all I can offer because I know I could get that giant wedge cut and fit in ten times less time than I could find a bag of mortar...much less the two hours I'd need to mix and play with it.So, I agree...but I also know what I'd do if I had to do it tomorrow.
fka (formerly known as) blue
That's fine. I prefer to not rely on caulk for door sills if I can avoid it.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
If this door is placed on a sidewalk (I think thats what the original poster said) then dont you have a problem with heaving in the winter?
EDIT: Added exterior door on top of unlevel side walk. From the original post
I cant imagine that installing a door on an X-sidewalk would be a good thing, especially in Chicago.
Doug
Edited 10/22/2007 7:29 pm ET by DougU
If you have a problem with heaving then nothing's going to work. But of course if this is to code (and who in Chicago would EVER not build to code??) then there is a footing and there should be no heaving.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
But Dan, wouldn't you set the door sill in a bed of caulk as required by most installaton guides?fka (formerly known as) blue
Yes, but I wouldn't try to use caulk for a filler. (Well, actually I did try and it didn't work.) It's especially bad to have the caulk down "on grade" on the concrete where it's effectively soaking in water whenever it's raining.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Kneetwoods,
Rapid-Set mortar mix will work very well for what you need. You have to work fast to consolidate it before it goes off. I usually mix two or more batches and sneak up on the final facing, using sticks and shims to shove the first parts way back under the threshold.
Tool the face then wipe with a damp sponge for a nice sand finish, and it is ready for traffic in 30 minutes. I can buy it at HD or my yard here, it is used a lot for stucco repairs at window replacements, etc. Just used some today, in fact.
Bill
Thanks Bill,
That seems like the info I was searching for.
The other responses are helpful too.
Cheers to all!
Bob