I am roughing in electrical, and not sure how to install the exterior boxes against the house.
I would like it to be as recessed as much as possible with just the in-use cover sticking out, where a decorative piece of cedar would go against sheating, that the siding would butt against that decorative ring.
If the box is going to be inside or mostly inside the house, can I use any old box, (fulfilling other req. like box fill, gfci, etc.), like the cheap blue plastic ones? I checked on an apartment being built near me, and they were just using the flimsy plastic boxes…
How far past the sheathing should the box sit? For instance, it is easy to know how far the box is past the studs with 1/2 drywall, but I am not sure if the exterior box should come to the outside cedar ring, the sheathing, inside the sheathing, etc…
The siding will be lap hardi-plank 5″ reveal.
Thank you,
Wil
Replies
Will
I have used a very pleasing good and not cheap, but not that bad either-recessed outdoor rated box.
Google it or I'll find the manufacturer and link it here.
You can rough the wire, cut in the box later. This gives you the proper layout.
Here it is on Amazon......
but you can get it from a supplier.
http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DBVR1C-1-Electrical-Weatherproof-Construction/dp/B004K1G0YA
That Arlington box is a very elegant solution, combining a flush mount with an in use cover.
Legally the inside of that wall is a dry location tho so any box will do. I disagree with Amish about the metal. Maybe it is just because I live near the water but metal boxes do not hold up well here in this appliication. You should also use a weather resistant receptacle and replace the mounting screws with stainless if the device does not come that way.
It gives you a good safe usuable box,
while not sticking one of those big plastic bulbs out of the wall. Since the in use box is now the norm, I don't see why anyone would use the old standard connections and then having the only alternative the plastic in use bulb that often falls off or you bash the shit out of it with something.
I've used both the vertical and horizontal Arlington in use boxe
they work nicely.
Horizontal- http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DBHR1W-1-Electrical-Weatherproof-Construction/dp/B004K1G0PE/ref=pd_cp_hi_2/190-1981304-3578813
I also use the Arlington boxes. Mostly the ones with the built in J channel, since most people around here use that vilyl siding....
Sine the in use box is required to pass inspection, using the method like Amish listed results in a huge plastic bubble showing on the outside of the house and it is subject to damage. I don't know what he has against plastic boxes, they do not rust like the metal ones around here! Changing an outdoor fixture or device can be chalenging with the rusted fasteners rusted to the metal box.
Frank DuVal
arlington boxes
I thought I posted this before, but it never showed up. Must have hit the wrong buttjon, so I will try again.
Are these available at electrical supply houses or only by ordering them on line. Thanks
oops
We got ours at a local supplier.
Here's the front page on Arlington-you can find the "local dist. locator" down a bit on the left side.
http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/weatherproof-products/
And don't give up the ship. You can do what you want, but leaving here does nothing but lose another member.
Forget about the cheap plastic boxes. Period.
Instead, use a metal box, about 4" square, with a bracket on it. Attach it to the inside edge of a stud. Use the proper clamps where your wires enter the box, and mount a grounding pigtail to it. Leave yourself at least a foot of 'free' wire to work with.
Set the box so the face is just slightly behind the face of the stud. Allow for the screw heads to sit beneath the sheathing.
The face of the box is covered with a "mud ring" or "tile ring." These are available in various depths- a lot more than the local box store carries. This is the part that actually pokes through the siding, and is where you mount the receptacle.
Size the mud ring so that it pokes slightly out of the finished wall. Since there is flammable material (cedar) present, you are not allowed ANY gap between the cover and the mud ring; it must sit firm to the ring.
If you do miscalculate, there are inserts available that can fill the gap. There are also fancy 'adjustable' mud rings, but they sacrifice the working space inside the box.
Are the all-weather covers required if the outlet is outdoors but under a covered patio? I've two places where rain never falls (because of the covering roof) but they are technically outside... or are they?
Probably not. You can use snap covers in damp locations.
Location, Damp. Locations protected from weather and not subject to saturation with water or other liquids but subject to moderate degrees of moisture. Examples of such locations include partially protected locations under canopies, marquees, roofed open porches, and like locations,
Probably not. You can use snap covers in damp locations.
Location, Damp. Locations protected from weather and not subject to saturation with water or other liquids but subject to moderate degrees of moisture. Examples of such locations include partially protected locations under canopies, marquees, roofed open porches, and like locations,
Wow, thanks for the quick and detailed responses. Funny I spent several days trying to google pictures, etc, when I could have just asked here.