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I’m rebuilding the floor on my 1894 front porch. The original
flooring is 3-1/2″ x 1″ non-T&G old-growth yellow pine. The
board lengths range from a few inches to 12′. I want to re-use
as much of the original flooring as possible, but many of the
boards have been spliced with other kinds of wood. I plan to
re-use only original boards and use same type re-claimed lumber
for the rest. My goal is to have no visible splices. The finished
floor will be painted.
Q: Is there a way to make a very long-lasting but invisible
splice for exterior flooring using this kind of wood?
Biscuits? Dovetail?
KW
Replies
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Haven't done this myself but look at the finger joint router bits and a polyurethane glue. Even that may not last. Is the porch roofed or exposed to sky year round?
*That's what I was thinkin' Bill. But... What's the matter with authentic looking butt joints?It's wood man, maybe you can get some trex in 66' lengths.A little annoyed.Tom
*True Tommy, and if its finished clear, you'll still likely see the grain change; if its painted, why not simply replace with new material and save the old for something where the grain will show.
*I never understood using covering material that should be cherished for whatever reason with paint. Like "paint grade" mahogany doors without a finger joint or knot in sight.Buy new wood and do the whole thing over.I have always been for preservation, except in cases where it will be imperceptable.-Rob
*Try adding a tongue & groove at the joints.Pete
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This is a 106-yr-old house with some historical significance.
I want to keep it as original as possible. I'm told that the
old-growth yellow pine is almost as hard as oak and will
out-last any new wood. The WHOLE house (framing, flooring,
1x12's behind the siding, trim (inside and out), gingerbread, fish-scale siding, porch rails and balusters, etc.) is made
of this stuff except the siding which is cypress. There were
no butt joints on the original floor. Most of the original
flooring is re-useable and is already paid for. I'm using
re-claimed joists of the same age to redo the porch floor
framing.
pictures:
http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/SuburbanSt/smokinleroy/house1.html
*Ken;Just one suggestion; use Titebond II - it is exceptional for exterior work.Bill
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Very true on the hardness of yellow pine - antique is close to oak on the scale. Cypress siding - you are lucky. If you were to price these materials (antique heart pine & cypress), assuming the pine is fairly vertical grain, from the Joinery or Goodwin, you wouldn't believe what you would have to pay. Keep it and patch it, is right.
Splining the end joints where you patch is a good idea. It would be interesting to see this thread debate Titebond II vs. Polyurethane (Gorilla or ProBond) for performance. Southern pine, even antique, does move around and you'll be hard put to stop it. You may have to come back and deal with opened end joints later. If you can get antique heart pine with a very low moisture content, butt-prime, etc. before you fit patches, you have a good shot at it.
Sounds like a gem and your approach is sensitive. Good luck.
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I'm rebuilding the floor on my 1894 front porch. The original
flooring is 3-1/2" x 1" non-T&G old-growth yellow pine. The
board lengths range from a few inches to 12'. I want to re-use
as much of the original flooring as possible, but many of the
boards have been spliced with other kinds of wood. I plan to
re-use only original boards and use same type re-claimed lumber
for the rest. My goal is to have no visible splices. The finished
floor will be painted.
Q: Is there a way to make a very long-lasting but invisible
splice for exterior flooring using this kind of wood?
Biscuits? Dovetail?
KW