Hello, I checked the archives for some information on this topic but still have some questions on this topic.
I have to paint some new exterior wood bilco style doors that I built for my 1711 farm house. Because they are not oriented straight up and down they will get a beating from sunlight, rain, leaves and snow and whatever else falls on them. I’d like to do a paint job that will last as long as possible. Some people say that oil is the way to go while others say that oil has changed so much in recent years that it’s not what it used to be. These people also claim that latex has come a long way from where it once was and say that it should out perform the oil. To complecate matters I also want to paint over some of the knots in the wood with a high hiding shellac like BIN.
My questions are:
Latex or Oil (for primer and top coat)? I want to caulk some of the seams on the door, should I prime, caulk then paint? When in the process should I apply the high hiding paint to the knots and should this be a spot treatment or applied to the whole door?
Sorry for all the question, thanks in advance for the responses.
Replies
Oh yeah, one more question, any opinions on using linseed oil/mineral spirits mix on the end grain prior to the priming application?
bilco doors - those the type you might have to cover a door opening to a basement?
anyway you'll get many responses and here's mine
sand whole piece (s) w/ 100 grit paper -cleans, gives tooth to
planed wood
using "best" oil base primer thin w/ thinner about 1 part thinner to
4 parts primer and let dry a day longer than directions say on
side of can in prime drying conditions
then let in your caulking where need be inc. any hairline areas
around these knots
caulking cured cover w/ full strength coat of primer
all dried coat of marine enamel cut 1 to 5 or so w/ thinner
sand w/ 220 grit and cover coat w/ full strength marine enamelhere in Pacific NW marine enamel has been a common commodity - hope it is in your neck of the woods
Thanks for the replys so far. Just to clarify, what I am calling bilco style doors are for the basement entrance and are on about a 30 degree angle off level. That's why I was primarily concerned about the paint selection for them. Also, I didn't see anyone address the high hiding paint/shellac question that I had. Is this not necessary if the priming application is done properly? Thanks again for the replies. I'm hoping to get this started in the next couple of weeks. I'll remove the doors and paint them in the barn to make the application easier and so I can control the environment to a certain extent.
Steve
Regarding oil vs latex, your friends are both right - Oil base is not what it used to be and latex is better now than in years past, but oil is still better for your application.
Oil base primer penetrates better than latex and so should protect the wood better. Oil base topcoats are easier to work with (except for cleanup), they flow smoother and look better. Also, they are more true to the history of your 18th century house.
Years ago you would have looked for a "long oil alkyd", but, out here in California at least, those are no longer available. Look for an alkyd with the slowest dry time as this will also be the most flexible and crack-resistant. Faster dry time resins tend to be brittle and prone to cracking and flaking. If you can still find boiled linseed oil, you might add 10% by volume to increase flexibility. Where you are the extremes of temperature and humidity will cause the wood to expand and contract quite a bit more than we experience in sunny SoCal.
BruceT
call a Benny Moore rep...they actually came to my 1680 house and advised me on everything and so far has been right.
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