Hello,
I’m wondering what might be the best way to frame an exterior wall of a two story open space. Would I, run the studs all the way from sill to plate if possible? Or, would I stop the studs at first floor plate height, double plate, then start a sill and studs to top plate of second floor? Thank you anyone.
Replies
Open two story room, full studs all the way up.
Thank you very much!!! Also, I'm wondering, is there a stud height requirement and if so, what then?
Your building code probably requires fire blocking a certain distance apart.
Thanks for your help, I'll contact the building dept. tomorrow.
ms... i'd invest a visit with your building inspector..
he's the one you have to get approval from..Mike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thank you very much!!! Also, I'm wondering, is there a stud height requirement and if so, what then?
You'll probaly have to frame your walls with 2x6 anything over 10-12'.
Joe Carola
Actually, it's a wall to half a "silo" in a barn house and stretches 23' from sill to plate.
ummmm.... that's a tall wall
might consider getting some pro help with this one
2x8 studs at 16 oc , or might even be better off going to 16 gauge 6" metal studs
again this is a big wall with the potential for a lot of wind to be hitting it
get a pro.
"this is a big wall with the potential for a lot of wind to be hitting it"Quoting the original poster-"Actually, it's a wall to half a "silo" in a barn house and stretches 23' from sill to plate."Even though he lives in a barn, I bet he closes the door anyway! ;-)John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio
Or, the inspector might let him frame on 8" centers with 2X4s.How can you understand God if you can't understand people? How can you understand people if you can't understand yourself?
I've done hundreds of two story walls and about 80% were full studs, floor to ceiling. The other 20% were framed with some form of horizontal members breaking the studs into two lengths. In those cases, it just made more sense in terms of strength. Sometimes it was advantageous to us, as installers, to add the horizontal members.
I believe you can make a "2 piece" tall wall as stiff as continuous studs if you tension-strap the inside and outside of the studs to provide bending resistance.but use the straps that wrap to the sides of the studs or the DW guys will hate you..
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
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If Pasta and Antipasta meet is it the end of the Universe???
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according to statistical analysis, "for some time now, bears apparently have been going to the bathroom in the woods."
We never attempted to strap anything like that. If straps were needed, we would have run the studs floor to ceiling.
Thank you, prior to me asking the question, breaking the wall just seemed like the thing to do structurally but wasen't sure.
I designed a house for some people once and there was a big wall of windows with brick veneer on an open 2-story living room and they did it in two walls, one on top of the other with double plate between and the whole wall bowed outward, with that double plate acting like a big hinge. I would try to do it with studs running full length top to bottom, or splicing them to make continuous 3" or 4-1/2" wide columns, or strap the inside and outside surfaces (the 1-1/2" wide edges) with steel strapping as another poster suggested.
23' foot wall? I'd use full height 2x6 LSL studs and the same for the top plates if the ceiling joists aren't sitting right on top the wall.
What's it getting sheathed with?
I am not the original poster on this--you need to reply to him to get your question answered!
The wall assembly needs to comply with the required code wind loading which takes precedence over other factors and, specifically, takes the height into consideration.
The exterior cladding is significant too, with larger deflection criteria for materials such as stucco or brick (l/360) vs. say, wood siding (as low as l/180).
Here is the applicable IRC2006NJE (assuming this is a residence) table, which indicates that 2 x 6s, even LVL Timberstrand (a good idea) won't cut it for even a non-bearing wall unless it is laterally braced at the midpoint, unless engineering 'analysis' justifies the application:
View Image
A bearing wall would be limited to 10' again, unless engineering analysis justifies otherwise.
Here's a good article on LVL studs for tall walls - http://www.homebuilders.org/file_depot/0-10000000/0-10000/48/folder/27032/MAB%200703%20pgs%2048-59.pdf
And another - with a focus on states with more stringent criteria - http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TJ-9004.pdf - on page 5 of that guide you'll find a design example for a 20' high wall that should give you some idea of the considerations involved.
Jeff
Edited 6/22/2009 11:08 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
Thank you very much Jeff, this is a great help.
One other thing, what are your thoughts on the Zip Panels for walls? I've heard some pro's and con's regarding them.
I hear good things but haven't used them.
Jeff