While waiting for the rockers to finish mudding and priming, I ordered the guide system and table kit.
Some questions:
I have a PC MAG 324 saw, almost new. What is a good blade for this, to use with the package? There is a 40T Freud on the shelf down at the lumberyard store.
How much time should I invest when mounting the plate, in getting the blade parallel to the plate guides?
What do you recommend as the plate attachment method? Tape or bolts?
Why are they shipping two each of the two types anti-chip plates?
The table rails are said to be 1×3 (make your own.) Is this a true measurement, or will 3/4″ stock work?
My plan is to use the table top, a piece of 3/4 ply 24 x 48, on 36″ sawhorses. Sound OK?
Replies
The Freud blade sounds like the one I use Stinger and it works great, although even the stock "Framer" blade gives amazing results with the EZ. I have the same saw BTW, as well as a 325. I used he tape on both of the saws I have setup and it's amazingly strong, make sure you get it right the firs time ;) (Don't ask me how I know that...). I believe Dino gives you extra inserts because in time you will need them and he's just a helluva good guy. Get the alignment as close as you reasonably can. I think I just kept the base edge parallel to one of the ribs on the base of the saw, IIRC. But in my experience you needn't get psychotic about it...
I'm afraid I haven't put my Smarttable together yet, so I may be mistaken but I THINK you could use the 3/4 . Shoot Dino an email, he's fantastic about prompt and detailed assistance. It's a great system, you're gonna love it...
the 1x3 is a nominal 1x3 ( typical furring ) and you can use any 3/4 stock ( 1x3,1x4, 1x6 ripped, etc )
i use a $10 Marathon... so your Freud will be just fine
i used the bolts, others used the tape..
i've set up 3 saws now, and they all worked fineMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I can understand two saws (7 1/4 and 8 1/4), but how do you use a third saw with EZ?I'm guessing it's a still bigger saw ........********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
i gave one to a friendMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
If anything the blade probably wants to toe in slightly because when the saw is under load the thrust will be trying to push the blade into toe-out
This is certainly the case with the festool system which are factory set to toe in
John
I've got one saw set up with the bolts, and one with the tape. They seem to hold the same.
If you think you might want to use the saw for some full-depth cutting without the EZ, and will need to take the base off, use the bolts.
Hi G.
Start with this.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/smart-base-instructions
I use the same saw for the pictures. Same steps can be followed for all saws.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/AC-1-insert-for-clean-cuts
The AC-1 insert is similar to a zero clearance insert on the tablesaw.
Gives you cheap clean and chip free cuts with any blade when you use your circular saw off the guide rails.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/square-vertical-cut
This is the ez way to adjust your saw for 90 degree cuts. (vertical)
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/AC-2-clean-cuts-left-and-right-of-the-blade
The AC-2 gives you cheap clean and chip free cuts on the right side of the blade when you're using the guide rails. The left side is protected by the white edge s of the guide rail.
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/the-best-dust-collection-system
This is funny?
Here is the first ever on-board dust collection system.:) 99.9% +
All the above on pictures.
Thanks
YCF Dino
Edited 10/28/2005 9:25 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
Edited 10/28/2005 9:57 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
Edited 10/29/2005 12:03 am ET by dinothecarpenter
Edited 10/29/2005 8:51 am ET by dinothecarpenter