I need to replace the 2″ by 3/8″ face nailed red oak flooring in a 10×12 bedroom. I replaced some individual strips some time back, but 120 sq ft is a little different challenge Previously, I predrilled all the nail holes and hand nailed. With 24 nails per sq ft, that is a bunch of predrilling. Is it likely that I could have success using a 15 guage air nailer without predrilling and not have the oak strips split? Any suggestions on the best way to nail these strips in a reasonable amount of time will be appreciated. This is in the currently cold and windy S.F. Bay Area.
Edit: Related question. Which type of construction paper would be best to use under the oak – red rosin paper or regular construction felt? And how is the best way to secure the felt to the subfloor?
Thanks
Edited 8/21/2006 12:41 am ET by CaseyR
Replies
Is this tongue and groove flooring?
It's a called a "top-nail" floor...usually 5/16"..... 18g brad nailer will work fine.
Edited 8/21/2006 9:34 am ET by ditch
I would predrill anything within an inch, or so, of the ends to avoid any splits. Shoot 18 gauge brads everywhere else.
You can use either red rosin or felt. They don't need to be fastened since your flooring will hold it down.
If you need to face nail,using a finish nailer, keep your nails 4-6" away from all ends. Believe me, the oak is plenty strong to span 4-6". People think they have to get nails all the way to the very ends of the flooring but they don't. Predrilling and hand nailing is the old, slow, but reliable way.
I would face nail with my Paslode finish nailer and use Famowood to fill the holes.
Good luck & don't forget to stretch your back!!!!
Thanks folks, I will give it a shot with my 18 gauge Senco pneumatic nailer. The problem with staying back from the ends is that all the other rooms in the house as well as the hallway connecting the rooms has the strips nailed about two inches back from the ends. How tight together should I try and get the strips? When I previously pulled out some cupped strips, the new strips were actually a friction fit back into the slots. I assume I could try and duplicate that for the total floor, which would mean just moderate pressure of the strip against the ajacent one. I have never noticed particular moisture problems here in the S.F. Bay Area (except for the dog pee, that caused this problem...). Even in the summer we get some cool, moist marine air most evenings - not a place for shirtless outdoor summer barbeques..Oh, and for the person who asked: these strips have no tongue and groove, which means that it doesn't take a lot of dog pee soaking into them to get them to cup.