I am instlaling 1000′ of prefinished solid oak flooring. I’m using a Porter Cable FCN-200 2″ cleat nailer for the field. What are you guys using for face nailing the last few rows near a wall?
* I could use my Trimpulse to shoot 2″ 15 gauge nails. Leaves a small hole, but not much resisitance to pull out.
* I could drill and hand nail 8d (or bigger) nails. About the same as above.
* I could drill and drive 2″ trim head screws. A lot more pull out resistance, but bigger hole. Have to putty the hole becasue it’s not big enough for a plug.
* I could drill a larger hole, drive a deck screw and then plug the hole. I just don’t loke the looks of plugs in the flooring.
Also, how do you fill holes in prefinished oak? Wood filler looks terrible. What about those touch up crayons?
Thanks in advance.
“The road goes on forever, and the party never ends”
Robert Earl Keen
Replies
Your trimpulse is actually a 16 gauge gun, but I have used that very gun to nail down hw flooring.
There is a company, woodwise, that makes a filler for prefinished floors. It looks OK, for what that's worth.
If this is tongue and groove flooring you could probably predrill and nail between the cheek and tongue of the flooring all the way up to the very last course, then face nail that down. I don't think I 'd go trim screw for the reason you state.
As for the plugs, here's a little aside. My classmate's parents built a beautiful home nearby. They milled up all their own timbers for framing, and even cut down some nice maple, birch, and oak for flooring. The local company that milled the flooring apparently didn't even check the tongue and groove. because it didn't mate well at all. When they went back to the milling company, the company wouldn't do a thing for them. So they ended up predrilling, screwing, and plugging every last piece of flooring in the house. I was heartbroken when I saw it, thought it was very ugly.
Haven't tried the touch up crayons-I wouldn't go that route on anything you thought would receive anything more than occasional traffic.
Dustin
sunedog,
If you don't mind the extra work screws and plugs worked well for me, (pictures available over on knots)
Use a plug cutter to cut plugs out of scrap ends, counterbore about 1/2 way down, glue in a plug and when you do take a moment to select of color and align the grain. The plug just about disappears. You have to look for it..
DUSTINT2 -- Thanks for the info. Yes, Trimpulse is 16 gauge. My bad.
FRENCHY -- Thanks as well. I can take the time (it's my house) to drill/screw/plug. I don't have a drill press. Can I cut plugs with a plug cutter in a hand held drill?"The road goes on forever, and the party never ends"
Robert Earl Keen
Drill and hand nail, using stainless nails. Test a few drill sizes to find the best compromise between pullout resistance and splitting. But the most important thing is stainless, so the nails don't turn into big black spots.
-- J.S.
You shouldn't have to face nail anything except the very last row. And even then, you can hide the nails under the base and/or shoe.
Either use your cleat nailer (I prefer staples) to nail through the tongues of the last couple rows just like your main flooring nailer, or drill and nail through the tongues by hand. Make a pull block from scrap (image below) to tighten the last strips and blind nail by hand once your nailer won't fit any longer. The last row will be face nailed near the wall edge since it's already held by the tongue on the other side. Depending on the base/shoe configuration, you should be able to cover the last nails completely.
Don't be overly concerned about holding power on those last couple rows near the wall where no one walks much anyway, the nails will do fine assuming the subfloor or strip flooring is not wavy. Should an annoying creak arise there, then that would be the time to sweat the screws and plugs IMHO.
Have fun.
They do make a face nailer that uses the same nails as the cleat nailer. T shaped things with barbs. Use a short old slotted head screw driver if you have to set them.
Have a look at post number 6 here
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=88034.1
Thanks everyone. All good information. I would go for the screw and plug technique using the Lehigh tapered plug cutter in the archived thread, but I don't have a drill press and don't think I can cut plugs accurately without one. Besides, I'd have to order it and I'm in the middle of the job right now.
I also talked to a flooring contractor at the local flooring specialty supply company (where all the pro's go). He told me he uses Liquid Nails and finish nails for the last couple of rows that the cleat nailer can't access. Just have to remove the felt under the rows I'm going to glue. The Trimpulse leaves a vey small hole in the face. I got some better wood filler in several colors and it really hides that small hole in the face.
So it's Liquid Nails and Trimpulse 2" nails for now. I have about 750 square feet left to go, so I'll follow up if I end up changing my plan."The road goes on forever, and the party never ends"
Robert Earl Keen
sunedog,
Just go top home depot or one of the wood working stores and buy a plug cutter.. six seven dollars for the fancy one and three bucks for the cheapy..
nail down the wood you intend to use and using your hand drill punch out some plugs.. It's not hard. you stand on the board you nailed your scrap too and push straight down using your feet to guide everything once the bit is about a quarter of an inch in it will keep itself straight and you only drill about a 1/3 of the way into the board pull the drill out and move to the next spot, repeat. Once you've got more than enough plugs made take a small screw driver and pop them out..
If you were here I could knock all you'll need out in about 45 minutes using nothing but a hand drill and a plug cutter..
If you are worried about it wandering off before it drills down that first 1/4 of an inch or so there are several plug cutters out there with little pilot barbs that will keep it centered..
Evan if you choose to do something else with the floor you need to try this plugs are too important to wood working.