I know that the fascia should go below the roof sheathing, but what about placing the fascia even with the sheathing?
Here is the problem… the lookouts are already in place & the sheathing is installed. In some places the sheathing just doesn’t have sufficient overhang for the fascia.
So I’d like to just cut the sheathing and the lookouts all in one pass. Then I’d have a nice straight line and I could attach the 1x pine fascia to the lookouts.
Since the drip edge would cover the seam between the fascia and the sheathing, would this be an acceptable solution?
In case I haven’t explained it well… the top edge of the fascia would be flush with the top surface of the sheathing.
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In case I haven't explained it well... the top edge of the fascia would be flush with the top surface of the sheathing.
As you said, the drip edge will cover the seam, so no problem there.
If you are installing prefab fascia cover, however, it (the cover) might be too wide.
it will be tight, so extend the roof deck a little by laying an unbroken line of cedar shingles along the eave, thick edge overhanging, extending past the fascia by what you need an inch? gauge it so it will drain proper into gutters, not cause an overshoot the drip edge will overlay and nail through the cedar into the plywood ice/water shield overlays the drip edge and upper tails of the cedar on the deck fasten the upper tails so they lay flat, not causing damage to ice/water shield if there's a question about this, lay a skinny piece of roof felt over the tails first as a buffer staples would hold and flatten shingles the best in this application, roofing nails will split them use stainless steel staples for cedar shingles, or stainless shake nails if you have to use nails spotnails makes a very good staple gun for this, reasonable, about $189. white cedar is fine as it's covered, not the actual roof surface...
the cedar will last the life of the roof, but if you're a true obsessive-compulsive like the rest of us here, dip them first in a sealer like thompson's, dry and apply
Hi Hey I kinda like that little cure, I need to remember that little tip.
hi clay necessity is the mother of invention, and some jobs are real mothers
shingle extension also works if there is an undershoot/backflow condition where water backfeeds to rear of gutter, runs into fascia, down exterior walls see capes in my area where this occurs, lot of rot did floor repair recently h.o. did roof eave too tight, now a few years later i refinish floor, water seeped down fascia/wall/under bottom plate (skirtboard on house w/no cap flashing) rotted subfloor and got to a few oak strips replaced oak after blocking between joists, subfloor repair.... his summer project? extend roofline out, r&r rear wall of house
whew... nice solution ed2.
Except I'm not using cedar shakes or shingles in this instance. Just good old asphalt architecturals.
:)
you missed the point..the cedar is for the extension ya need..still use your shingles on that.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
hi- this works w any kind of roofing and will work in your application with asphalt architecturals
you're just extending the roof deck out a little past the fascia with the unbroken line of cedar shingles, then dropping the aluminum drip edge onto them which leaves them buried
now apply ice water shield, then asphalt starter course and asphalt shingles...
before starting, remember to place a gutter up there with unfastened pieces of: wood shingle, drip edge and asphalt shingle to gauge and engineer proper drip into gutter; no over or undershoot you'll need a helper on the roof for this wives and girlfriends work best, they're better looking
with all my rambling, probably didn't make it clear that it works with any type roof material.... when i mentioned the shingle stapler, it was just because that type fastener won't split the "extender" course of wood shingles like roofing nails, and will make them lay flat.... p.s. don't use "barndoor" shingles... real wide ones, as they will split.... pop them with a nail to pre-split them down the center before applying
Well monkey.
I always have and always will make my fascia flush with the sheathing. Along the rake and along the tails. The way I look at it is that my fascia should be a type of wood that is more ( for lack of better word) weather resistant. I mostly use cedar for my fascia. And of course as we all know if everything is installed properly we wont have any leaks.
Anyway before I start rambling on. I use my fascia as a barrier for my sheathing in case something else fails or gets blown off.
Don't know but never had any call backs and I live in real small place so if anything happens i'm right here. And everyone knows where to find me.
tyke
just another day in paradise
G.E. Ely Construction
Ocracoke ,NC