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What are everyone’s favorite way to fasten 1-1/2″ and 2″ furring to a poured concrete foundation wall? Tapcon screws? Hilti power-driven fasteners?
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If its green hilti is a good fast way but difficult to remove if there's a mistake. Tapcons go quick if you have two drills going-one to make the hole and one to drive the cons. Good thing with the tap cons is that if you have to shim to level or straighten the wall its easy to add or remove shims for adjustment, I'd go with the Tapcons on an old pour as there is less chance of damage and you have more flexability in the adjustment.
*I've just set about 80 Tapcons in the last few days. I'm using the 3/16 size because small holes are easier to drill than big ones. But it's easy to torque the heads right off these little ones. I fitted a small brass tube to my compressed air blow gun to blow the dust out of the holes. That helps a lot. Also, if my drill hits a hard stone in the concrete, I move over and start a new hole. The drill can go through the hard stone, but the Tapcon won't. If the tapcon hangs up halfway down the hole and the head strips, I just pretend it's a conc nail and bang it home with my hammer. Hope this helps.
*Definately tapcons. powder actuated drivers mostly just wind up cracking up the concrete and are not a very safe tool to operate.
*Try this one, Gene. Drill a 5/16" hole and drive in 3 16D common nails ( not sinkers ). If you've got a lot of them you'll probably want to use a rotary hammer.Works great, much cheaper than tapcons, which in my opinion are only good when used in concrete block.
*b WBA At Your ServiceDon, how about this one. A 3/16" hole and a 16d common nail with a piece of tie wire inserted in the hole first. A carpenter with a cheapskate ex-boss dropped this one on me last month. The suckers hold !We run about 1000 rounds a year through our Hilti DX36M with great SPEEDY results. Always depends on the hardness of the concrete. Usually the only time we have any problems is shooting into commercial high quality concrete that is fully cured. You will be limited to fastening 1 1/2" material with the longest pin available, a DN62 (2 9/16" length) with a red load. If you have access to Hilti products, use a powder actuated tool with the help of a few dabs of construction adhesive on the furring for security.
*Gene,As a DIY'er I asked a similar question a year or so ago (the difference being I was nailing into block)and a lot of the feedback suggested tap cons. I had a very difficult time with them not holding. One of the 'regulars' here suggested adhesive ("liquid nails") and then drive a cut nail with a 2lb (I think its called) drill hammer (looks like a small sledge). I predrilled the holes with the bit that came in the tap con box. I used a 1/2" Milwaukee hammer drill and the job really moved quickly and the adhesion has held up great.Don
*I hate to take this discussion too far away from the original intent, bu tdo any of you have experience fastening furring to stucco? I have an old post war vet's house with what appears to be seriously strong concrete stucco (made to look like brick). I tried one of those Remington shots and it seemed to hold pretty darn well. I figure combining this with some adhesive shoudl do the trick. I will be adding Board and Batten cedar on top of it all. Any thoughts?Best,JM Dupont
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What are everyone's favorite way to fasten 1-1/2" and 2" furring to a poured concrete foundation wall? Tapcon screws? Hilti power-driven fasteners?