The attached pic shows the architect’s hallucination for one side of the mud room. That partition between the cubby area and the clothes hang area is one piece of MDF, trimmed around at the base with the 1×6 and little top-base bead. Might be cool to do it as-is, but here is the dilemma. It is atop a concrete slab floor, with heat in it. Now I can lay out things so heating tubes aren’t an issue, but what does one do to get some fastening? I thought we might embed a piece of PT 2×4, ripped down to maybe 2″, with its top face flush with the slab, then we would have something to get some screws into, driving toenail-fashion through the base of the MDF piece. Your thoughts?
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construction adhesive
Why cant you attach it to the wall? Am I missing something here?
"Understanding yourself is like trying to bite your own teeth"
Alan Watts
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 3/29/2003 10:08:17 AM ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)
I am asking about where its base attaches to the floor, which is concrete.
How 'bout not attaching it to the floor at all? Think of it as a bookcase, not as a wall. Add a low shelf or horizontal brackets at the back wall to stop it from flapping around, and call it good without any connection to the floor.
I am concerned about someone kicking it. Glue will probably do it, and maybe to give the big glob of epoxy some purchase into the floor, I will drill into the slab and place a couple small steel studs. They don't call me Mr. Micro for nothing.
Gorilla glue no doubt!
Be floored
NAmaste
andy
"Understanding yourself is like trying to bite your own teeth"
Alan Watts
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
for an architects halluncination like that, this calls for little short dowels, otherwise known as LSD. The dowels are inserted in the concrete and holes dtrilled in the bottom of the partition. If it's a tile floor, you can use POT.....pieces of tile can hold it, the partition is placed first, than the tile is placed around it. Whatever method, don't speed the job, and beware of any cracks in the concrete, or you'll need to take some 'ludes to calm down if the job screws up. And make sure no ones smoking any wacky tabacky.
There ya go! It will be the POT method, as the flooring over the slab is tile. We can either lay the tile first and leave a little untiled trough, or tile after right up to the MDF wing bottom. Either way, that wing will be captured, and won't go anywhere.
Wonder what method the archy used in dreaming this up?
I was thinking of metal angle brackets tapconed to the floor and screwed to the "wall".
Then the notch out the baseboard to hid it.
<Wonder what method the archy used in dreaming this up?>
Take it from an archy.
"What method?"
One more thought, Mr M --- You say "mud room", and I'm hearing "puddles of water on the floor". Then you say "MDF touching the floor", and I'm worrying. Wet MDF almost intantaneously expands and then turns into oatmeal. If your installation method can keep the MDF above the flood level, it'll last lots longer. For the same reason I'd strongly recommend painting or varnishing the MDF; don't let the architect talk you out of it.
It's a mudroom, not a swimming pool! But seriously, I know about MDF and water, and we will probably waterproof the bottom end of the panel with epoxy, before setting it into a recess between tiles.