Replies

1. 
   calvin | Feb 13, 2003 01:35am | #1

   Eric, I was called on to locate and fix a leak source in a ceiling.  The house was one of those "need more wall and roof lines to make it look cool from the road" places.  One leak didn't come from a skylite but exited in that area, another didn't come from a window location, but seemed to start there.  What I found while replacing some buckled cedar claps was on a wall that ran at an angle to the roof.  There,  stock step flashing was used and was both too narrow to be bent to that angle and too short anyway to go up high enough to keep the claps up off the roof where they should have been.  I restep flashed with site cut and bent aluminum, then counter flashed with a wide strip of ice and water shield so the fastening of the new siding wouldn't compromise the flashing.  So yes, I would counter flash damn near any side wall application or use site bent step that would do the job.  Even so, I think I'd run a strip of Ice & Water shield up that run and get the siding off the shingle.  With that steep a pitch you may think it unneccesary.  Melting snow does some weird things around here.

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

   
   

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   Edited 2/12/2003 5:37:30 PM ET by calvin

1. 
   EricS | Feb 13, 2003 05:40am | #2

   Thanks for your extensive response.  Don't quite understand your statement re "fastening of the new siding wouldn't compromise the flashing".  I have no problem with the FC work but am only now beginning to realize the real importance of correct flashing.  We get snow here also - Wash DC area.  Thanks again.

   ES

2. 
   Davo304 | Feb 13, 2003 10:29am | #3

   "fastening of the siding wouldn't compromise the flashing..."

   Esvendson, Calvin can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe what he meant by this statement was that...after he step flashed with the metal flashing, he the installed a layer of "ice guard" (rubber membrane) overtop of the exposed part of the metal flashing where the clap boards were to be attached. When installing the clapboards, any nails driven into the flashed area would be kept watertight; due to the "ice guard" material...which grabs the nail shaft tightly and prevents leaks.

   "Ice guard" is an adhesive backed EPDM rubber type membrane which is used as an xtra protective layer when roofing. This stuff is 3 ft wide and comes in a roll approx. 50 ft long and costs between $50 and $70 depending where you buy. It is normally installed at the bottom edge of roofs to protect against ice damming, and also used in valleys. Because of its "grabbing ability, you can put nails into it, and water still won't penetrate.

   "Counter" flashing is usually a term used when installing another layer of metal flashing overtop a layer of  metal step flashing. Counter flashing is used when flashing into brick.

   But... in your case...as Calvin pointed out...adding a layer of the ice guard overtop of the top half of the step flashing before installing the new clap boards would be added insurance.  Is it  absolutely necessary? If step flashed properly, then.....no, not really,  but it can't hurt either.  If it were me, I would do it.

    Just so you know, the step flashing that you recently had installed should  be "L" shaped, and extend at least 4 inches up onto the  adjacent wall, and  also lie approx 3 inches underneath the shingle. Each subsequent piece of step flashing should extend the same, plus  overlap the previous step-flashed piece by 2 inches.  If your flashing exceeds this....all the better....this is minimum regulations for step flashing. Hope yours at least meets this requirement.

   Davo

   
   

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   Edited 2/13/2003 2:33:08 AM ET by Davo

3. 
   r_ignacki | Feb 14, 2003 05:10am | #4

   with what you're doing, I would run the siding up the wall, till you have to cut one piece the angle of the roof slope. Install this piece. Then commence with roofing. The first piece of step flashing goes OVER the last piece of siding, and the rest of the step flashing up the wall, as usual. Then finish the siding which acts as the counterflashing. Depending on the siding exposure, there may be one or two top edges (the first course of roof shingles) of step flashing exposed, which need to be counterflashed, snip a triangular shaped piece of metal and install that, work it underneath the course of siding above. You should put a slight bend in it so it holds itself tight, or you can secure it with a nail.