Fein Multimaster question – all addicts!
RRooster
| Posted in Tools for Home Building on
OK, I’d like to know if this is the right tool for the job (I don’t own one yet – please don’t hold it against me – if the answer is yes, I’ll be owning one soon)
I will be removing old aluminum frame windows with drywall returns and installing new vinyl windows. The new windows are thicker than the old windows, so cutting the drywall nice and neat and exact for a clean fit is vital.
Will the multimaster follow a pencil line straight (without a straight edge or fence) and cut the drywall nice and neat? Without digging in to the RO beneath?
(Another project) – What about cutting through metal drywall corners following a pencil line?
What Fein “kit” should I get?
Thanks
Replies
If you're cutting back drywall, why not darw a line with a straightedege and use a sharp utility knife?
But if you'rer mlooking to add to your arsenal, then you really do need to buy that Multimaster.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I use the FMM often to cut drywall, without a fence or guide. Mark or snap a line, then plunge and cut away. I usually tilt the blade slightly. Use the widest blade you can find, with the aggressive teeth.
I haven't tried cutting metal with it (on purpose, though nails will eat those blades in a heartbeat, which is cruel, considering how expensive they are.)
If I had to buy another tomorrow, I would get the best in the metal case. I hate the blow-plastic case mine came in. The cord is like a snake that has to be poked in on every side at least a dozen times before the latches will snap.
If you're concerned about cutting depth, sometimes I'll strike a magic marker line across the blade as a depth guide. Someone more ingenious could maybe drill two holes and fashion a fence, use screws/nuts. More trouble than it's worth, up to now.
Good luck. I use the FMM on almost every project. I keep hoping mine will die or walk away, so I could buy new.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I solved that cord problem the 1st day I had the tool. I cut the cord off leaving only about 6" and put a plug on it. I just use a 10' extension cord with it. It fits in the plastic case real nice without the 12' cord.
I am totally sold on my MM. I ended up buying the 25 ct. packs of sandpaper for the savings. For sanding, if you have a variable speed MM, go to slowest or you'll tend to burn. I bought the tile kit, too. I regrouted a couple hundred sq. ft. kitchen floor and the carbide grout blades made it fast and fun (fun, because it went so fast).I really like the segment (partial circle) flush cut blades and use those a lot.Whenever possible, get the blister pack sets or the three pack blades to save $$$.Also, for those who don't know/have it, here's the Ebay guy with inexpensive aftermarket MM blades:http://stores.ebay.com/besserklinge
I use the heck out of the profile sanding attachment. I got to get more sand paper to.
Sancho,
That is the only thing I haven't used mine for,yet.I have used it to cut elect. boxes into plaster and lath, cut thru a hardwood floor, and altered a Murrey Mini breaker to fit in a cuttler Hammer panel( until I get back to the job tomorrow.) When I got the tool, and did a few test cuts, my first thought was " I will never use this thing!" It is the one tool that never leaves the truck. I thought there patent was running out soon, and other manufactures would copy the tool, just paid $70 bucks for a round blade(ouch!)
Dennis.
You want to get the new Multimaster that works with the star hole accessories, and that has the quick-release.
The top of the line in this category is the Multimaster Top, but it comes with a crappy plastic case.
Get the Multimaster Select which has the quick release (which the "Start" model does not have) and star drive which comes without the case:
http://www.amazon.com/Fein-FMM-250Q-Select-MultiMaster/dp/B000U8W4VU/ref=pd_bbs_sr_5?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1196550652&sr=8-5
And get the metal case here:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6641&familyName=Fein+MultiMaster+Metal+Case
That's what I did and I couldn't be happier. You will use it for all sorts of things and wonder why you didn't buy one years ago.
Billy
Nothing better than a utility knife to cut a nice line in sheetrock
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
"so cutting the drywall nice and neat and exact for a clean fit is vital."
why?
don't U plan on finishing it?
utility knife or sawzaw dialed down.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I like the Multimaster for cutting drywall. However, it is very easy to get a slightly wavy line. I find that making a light cut right on the line and then coming back and doing the deep cut/cut off helps me to keep a straight line. I have also done a cut on the line with a utility knife and then going over that with the Multimaster results in a pretty nice line and I find this to be faster than trying to cut all the way through with a utility knife alone for cutting out a section of drywall in an existing wall.
I usually use one of the blades that is (I believe) called a "multi-purpose" blade. I inadvertantly used a wood cutting blade once and quickly ended its useful life when I hit a nail in the drywall. The multi-purpose blade will take many nails in stride before becoming too dull to cut drywall. I also now go over the section of wall I am going to cut with an old fashioned stud finder (the type that has a swiveling magnet) and try to locate the nails before I cut so that I do as little damage to blade as possible.
You should definitely get a multimaster...But, that said, there's a better way to cut straight lines in sheetrock or plaster IMHO.
Your 4" angle grinder with the masonry blade in it. Better if you can get one with variable speed, set it low like 4,000rpm. The one-speed ones spin at like 12,000rpm.
Then, tape your shop vac right under the guard and away you go.
The masonry blade will neatly cut any metal under the drywall/plaster too.
As for the multimaster, get the new one with tooless changer and I'd rec. the contractor's package.
I'd sell you my old MM--I should get the new one. I use it so much.
I bought my Multimaster for a single job (an over-the-post stair railing) job a few years ago. After I found out it was more than just a pretty face and could cut, as well as detail sand, it became indispensable. I don't toss my old saw blades, They become scrapers or I do a crude "resharpening" and use them where trashing a forty-five dollar blade would hurt too much. I also buy dollar store putty knives and covert them to scrapers by using one of the step drill bit to create arbors (I get two scrapers out of each putty knife by cutting them in half).
You might try the round or semi circ blade, it will tend to track pretty well. It is a tool I thought I could not justify, now I can not see how I lived without it.
I too cannot figure out how I ever got along without my Fein Supercut. I can find a job for it almost every day.
Thomas Jefferson
3rd president of US (1743 - 1826)
Saw at the wood show in Ottawa on Sunday, $425 CDN ... the knifes look'n pretty sharp!
Thanks to all for the informative reply's.
Just got power back on today after over 5 days out due to the big Pac NW storm last week. (Have you heard, has it been in the news? - out of touch with reality w/o power - and out of work, too).
I have cut drywall inside window jambs with a utility knife for the last time.
Thanks to all, I will be a master, soon.
For good new rock music, click on:
http://www.myspace.com/rosehilldrive or
http://www.myspace.com/yearlongdisaster
> out of touch with reality w/o power
Heck, damn near everyone here is out of touch with reality, and mor than a few have been without power for years. Don't go thinkin' yer so special!
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
Hey, I just Multi-Mastered the whole front body shell of my car off this morning (pic elsewhere); freehand following nothing more than the edge of a piece of painter's tape.
Forrest
But, as seen here in many photo's, you, McDesign, are a fine craftsman!!!!!!!!!!
I, on the other hand, are/is a hack!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe my new purchase, when it comes, will elevate me in between somewhere!!!!
For good new rock music, click on:
http://www.myspace.com/rosehilldrive or
http://www.myspace.com/yearlongdisaster
Rest easy man, you can still hack the #### outta things with the MM.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I though that just bying the MM would convert a hack into a craftsman. And actually using it would make you a master craftsman.Looks like I got ripped off..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
The tool don't necessarily make the man.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
ya, it's all in the technique.
Thanks - but I think I just got too excited yesterday morning listening to Car Talk on NPR.
Forrest
There is so little dust and effort to cut drywall with the MM that it's my tool of choice for things like outlets and such that benefit from a good cut.
As has been mentioned it helps to not try to cut the whole depth all at once.
For drywall, with the suggestion from someone here at BT, an old beater blade works great if simple cuts are made with a cutoff blade in a dremel tool. It cuts drywall just as fast and costs almost nothing since you're using old blades.
I have the metal case and it's one of the few tool cases that works well. Don't be shy about buying blades since you'll go through a lot of them. Buy every accessory pack you can find and soon every blade in the box will have some use on it. Seriously.
Personally I love the extra thin round flush cutting blades for cutting between two surfaces that are a bit tight. For instance the granite counter back splash was 1/16" too tight under an existing piece of trim. A scrap of backsplash was used and the blade rested directly on the granite to slice a perfect cut probably only 1/32" shy of the finished backsplash--easy to caulk and finish and only took 30 seconds. Granite installers were amazed that they could pick up the tool with no experience and use it to make such a fine cut.
Round blades are quite expensive ($60-$100) so don't loan them out.
For general wood cutting such as cutting base to instal wider door casing or cutting in outlets in a cabinet I like the fine cut (japanese saw type teeth) in a moderate width (1-1/4"ish). Hit a nail, lose a tooth.
The longer blades seem to be better to get a straight long cut so pick up some of those.
A good general purpose blade that won't break the bank is a wide blade with normal teeth. Hit a nail and it will dull that portion of the blade, but you won't lose a tooth.
Don't be afraid of using a metal cutting blade to go through drywall corners, but go easy so you don't crack the mud holding the corner on. It's probably safer to use a dremel and cutoff wheel, but I usually just go with a sharp metal cutting blade.
The MM is a fanstastic corner sander so stock up on all the grits of paper. Don't buy the small packs of paper since the cost per sheet is twice what the 10 packs are.
The miniture blades have been really handy on some tight areas and the price is really reasonable so that's a good buy.
If you don't have a dremel and cutoff wheel you'll pay for it many times over when it comes to modifying MM blades for special situations. I hate to admit it, but on soft pine an old blade cut like I mentioned above for drywall, works pretty well especially if used right after slotting with the dremel while the edges are sharp.
You may never want to use the MM with tile, but the tile package is worth getting. The carbide rasp has saved the day when trying to get a vent grill to sit flat on some very uneven stucco.
I used to sweat the cost of blades but now have become accustomed to building that into the cost of a job. It increases my productivity so clients don't mind paying a little extra for a blade here or there.
You'll quickly see that managing blade wear is the key to being able to afford the MM and loaning it out is a no no unless the person using it supplies their own blades.
You need one, just get it.
Happy holidays!
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
I abused the hell out of my MM on Saturday. I had notched the telephone pole supports for my cabin in the woods a few weeks ago with my chainsaw. I'm running double 2 x 10 PT sleepers and 12 foot 2 x 10 floor joists on 16 inch centers. I was placing the last two floor joists and realized I hadn't notched quite deep enough with the chainsaw.
The only tool I had with me that would do this job was the Multi-Master. I stuck it in the truck because I was using it to final cut the 2 x 10's right up against the creosote telephone pole.
She did both jobs in record time. Cut another inch of depth in the telephone pole, then cut a very clean, straight line in the 2 x 10.
Beautiful tool, nothing else would take it's place.
Greg
I abused the hell out of my MM
That line could start a lot of different stories.
Coworker and I recently spent a day and a half MMing all the grout out of a new slate floor. Color was a couple shades lighter than the owners wanted. What other tool could do that job? Grinder I guess but can you imagine the mess and each little slip-up would have been a disaster.
The kits come with lots of stuff you might seldom use. Buy just the tool for about $130.00 and then buy the blades as you need them. The cheaper blades that are still pricey dull quickly. Make a case if you need one. The tool alone comes in a cardboard box.
I use a thin strip of hardwood straight edge straightened by a pass on the jointer when cutting wood or drywall and then use a flush cutting blade plunged in. I can cut a pretty straight line without a straight edge but it won't be perfect. Relative to a sawsall or a grinder it is much easier to cut an almost clean thin kerf straight line freehand with the multimaster.